What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[jawn101]

A week ago, but forgot to post. Installed DPI Josh’s new injector clamps. Awesome designed little part. Went in without too much trouble, though I had to smooth out the stamped part numbers on the injector to make them fit. And of course cylinders 4/5/6 are a pain in the butt to access.

I’ve had a small vacuum leak around injector #5 for a long, long time now - these sealed it right up! And I’ll never pop an injector on start again (it’s happened 3 times in the 12 years I’ve owned the car)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220801/efdf867703198002e5b3758087794112.jpg
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Also, I installed the plunger seals around the rear induction vents. Went on super easy and look great. Very happy with the results.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220801/40c54fc57677da0289fcdf78ebe00617.jpg

And then, topped up the brake fluid. The reservoir had dropped some due to pad wear, and the dash light started coming on. Good thing that sensor still works.

[JBaker4981]

Also, I installed the plunger seals around the rear induction vents. Went on super easy and look great. Very happy with the results.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220801/40c54fc57677da0289fcdf78ebe00617.jpg

That looks great! As an early car steward, I am also missing these and have always wondered if something went there. I never could find it in the parts manual the one time I did look.
What part number was it if you dont mind?

[ssdelorean]

That looks great! As an early car steward, I am also missing these and have always wondered if something went there. I never could find it in the parts manual the one time I did look.
What part number was it if you dont mind?


See back a couple pages to post 8981 here (https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?241-What-have-you-done-to-your-DeLorean-today&p=272339&viewfull=1#post272339).

[jawn101]

That looks great! As an early car steward, I am also missing these and have always wondered if something went there. I never could find it in the parts manual the one time I did look.
What part number was it if you dont mind?

Yeah, lmao someone already replied but - there is no P/N for these anymore. They're literally off a plunger.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Mini-Pro-Sink-Plunger-HDX311/302136270

Buy 2 of those, pull the black rings off, make a clean straight slit so they can be opened - then just pop them around the induction vents. Perfect match.

[Rich]

That looks great! As an early car steward, I am also missing these and have always wondered if something went there. I never could find it in the parts manual the one time I did look.
What part number was it if you dont mind?

P/N 106693

The OE part is called a Sponge Ring. Shown as Item 21 in this diagram (https://store.delorean.com/parts/engine/1-4-0-air-inlet-system-air-cleaner-assembly.html).

The early cars had them as far as I know. They just weren’t made to last. They turn soft and flatten out, then pull away from the tube they surrounded looking very sad. Until somebody removes them or covers them up as shown in this thread. These plunger rings look legit.

[WHO1DMC]

P/N 106693

The OE part is called a Sponge Ring. Shown as Item 21 in this diagram (https://store.delorean.com/parts/engine/1-4-0-air-inlet-system-air-cleaner-assembly.html).

The early cars had them as far as I know. They just weren’t made to last. They turn soft and flatten out, then pull away from the tube they surrounded looking very sad. Until somebody removes them or covers them up as shown in this thread. These plunger rings look legit.

My car someone took masking tape painted it black and put around it.



Dave B.

[JBaker4981]

Wow! Thank you guys! This is why I still love DMC Talk...

[Helirich]

I replaced my fuel filter today. The old filter was replaced when I first got the car a couple years ago. It was a sitting car and I had alot of work on the fuel system. I cleaned the tank as best I could without removing it from the car. Anybody that has done this knows it’s difficult to get a perfect job. Obviously, I didn’t get all the junk out because the car began running rough. Changed the filter and now it seems to be back to normal. I’m hoping that’s the last of it. I’m sort of worried about that junk going through the new fuel pump.

Whole the car was up on jack stands, I changed the clutch slave cylinder. That also seems to be working right now. I might be making a 700 mile trip soon, so I need to get some confidence in the car again.

Curious observation, when the car was running rough, it seem much louder. I really thought the muffler (DPI) was blown out. But after I got it running better, it seems back to normal. The muffler is discolored somewhat in the center which had me worried. I don’t care about the looks, but I thought it might have burnt out some baffles or something. I could probably polish it out, but again, I don’t really care about the looks under the hood.

[paul_haga]

Recently I noticed an overheating issue starting, so I clocked a couple hours last night bleeding the cooling system. Always fun watching the Champaign bubbles vacate the system. ;) Fans are cycling nicely and the temp is holding where it needs to be.

[DavidProehl]

Followed Chris' suggested footwell lighting instructions (https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?152-Cheap-basic-LED-interior-lights) and finally set this up! I used similar cheap Chinese LED boards, $17 total cost for LEDs and related wiring hardware. Have white ones installed now, but will likely also buy the RGB variant, for less than $10, that I can plug into the new wiring I've installed and see how well they work as well.

I used piggyback spade connectors to connect to the power (glove box) and ground (left side of blue driver's diode) so I didn't even need to tap into existing wiring! To undo this all I have to do is unplug it and pull the short wire harness I made out.

69313

For those interested, this is the LED board (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW1D67R) I used, picture for reference after the link goes dead in a couple years:
69314

[DMC5180]

David, that looks great. I used a similar 36 LED version with Festoon adapter for my License plate lighting. It really lights up the plate and rear of the car.


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[Lwanmtr]

Looks nice. Not sure ill do floor lighting, but thats an inexpensive add.

[DavidProehl]

David, that looks great. I used a similar 36 LED version with Festoon adapter for my License plate lighting. It really lights up the plate and rear of the car.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! Yes, this LED pack came with a few adapters including a festoon one. Great idea about doing so for the license plate! I'm now trying to think where else I might want to add some more light.


Looks nice. Not sure ill do floor lighting, but thats an inexpensive add.

I wasn't sure either. I was initially thinking I'd have to tap into wires and was worried about adding wire spaghetti to the car. This ended up being a simple enough solution that I can easily pull it out when I get sick of it or it gets too messy. And at $17 I won't feel like I wasted much money if it ends up not working out for me.

[Mark D]

Nice job on the foot well lighting, that turned out great!

[Michael]

Yeah, lmao someone already replied but - there is no P/N for these anymore. They're literally off a plunger.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Mini-Pro-Sink-Plunger-HDX311/302136270

Buy 2 of those, pull the black rings off, make a clean straight slit so they can be opened - then just pop them around the induction vents. Perfect match.

I love it!!! I will swing by today and pick up a pair.

[Timeless]

I love it!!! I will swing by today and pick up a pair.
So great - so cheap.

[Helirich]

nice job on the foot well lighting, that turned out great!

x 2

[81dmc]

Installed all new megasquirt wiring from interior to engine bulkhead. Also pinned out the wiring on the engine side. 50% done with engine harness.

Also required the iBooster with proper wire seals and locking lever.

[CyberBill]

For the first time in 18 months, I was able to drive my DeLorean... My now ELECTRIC DeLorean!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbKG0eMJlnQ

[81dmc]

My car started for the first time in 5 years. I only ran it few seconds as it has no coolant (waiting on a pipe). Nevertheless, I have a grin stuck to my face.

It?s been slow as I finished building the 3.0 last year, and finally got the engine wiring done just now. Running EDIS and MS3 Pro Evo, which allows full sequential and turbo options if I ever want to upgrade.

69346

Now I need to figure out the intake and throttle/trans/cruise cable solutions.

[PlutonimicX]

My car started for the first time in 5 years. I only ran it few seconds as it has no coolant (waiting on a pipe). Nevertheless, I have a grin stuck to my face.

It?s been slow as I finished building the 3.0 last year, and finally got the engine wiring done just now. Running EDIS and MS3 Pro Evo, which allows full sequential and turbo options if I ever want to upgrade.

69346

Now I need to figure out the intake and throttle/trans/cruise cable solutions.

Could I bother you in the future? I'm planning to do an N/A 3.0 upgrade as well albeit it'll be attached to a manual transmission.

[81dmc]

Could I bother you in the future? I'm planning to do an N/A 3.0 upgrade as well albeit it'll be attached to a manual transmission.
Sure.

Just a quick tip. If you are doing coil on plug with EDIS. Do not use Joe's wiring diagram. It's wrong.

[81dmc]

And today I got the leaking heater elbow fixed. I removed the press in fitting, tapped the waterpump with a 1/2npt tap, and used a 5/8 barb to 1/2npt to fit in there. Then just used a 90* 5/8 hose to finish it off.

Also got alternator and belt installed. Once I get my waterpipe, I can start it up and break in the rockers and rings.

69358
69359
69360

[81dmc]

ECU bay cleaned up. Used Tesa fuzzy tape to wrap harness.
69374

Also, put rear of car back on, recharged AC, put back interior trim.

Almost ready for first drive in 5 years. 8)

Just need to hook up cruise control and go tune!

[Timeless]

ECU bay cleaned up. Used Tesa fuzzy tape to wrap harness.
69374

Also, put rear of car back on, recharged AC, put back interior trim.

Almost ready for first drive in 5 years. 8)

Just need to hook up cruise control and go tune!
If you need a laptop operator assistant I'm game :thumbup2:

[81dmc]

Got my cold air air intake setup installed. It has CCV and I even have the carbon canister hooked up too.

Now I just need to connect cruise cable and fix header leak.

69381

[Helirich]

Got my cold air air intake setup installed. It has CCV and I even have the carbon canister hooked up too.

Now I just need to connect cruise cable and fix header leak.

69381

Very clean looking setup! Do you plan to dyno it? Do you know what kind of hp numbers do they typically get?

[81dmc]

Very clean looking setup! Do you plan to dyno it? Do you know what kind of hp numbers do they typically get?
Seat of the pants it?s slightly faster, though I haven?t pushed it as I?m breaking it in. While book value is 150hp, I'm running a tweaked timing and VE table from Josh S, so no idea what he got. Maybe add or subtract a few from that.

In hind sight, I should've bought those forged pistons and rods that are on ebay.


My plan if this ever blows is a swap from auto to G96 manual and going with my original plan of a VR6. I still have all the parts minus block, crank, and turbo to make a VR6 12v.

[81dmc]

Was getting weird fluctuations in mixture when hot. It would go way rich.

Found it it went away when unplugging carbon canister, and figured it out. I had the carbon canister directly teed into the vacuum port for CCV. Thing is, the restricting orifice is on the CCV cap, not on the engine side like the 2.8. As a result, it was sucking too much gas fumes, which drastically richened the mixture when hot and low on fuel.

The fix was instead teeing the carbon canister line on the air filter side of the CCV. This sets it up the same as the eagle premier.

69386

[81dmc]

Installed this Hall effect speed sensor kit from Josh S yesterday.
69395

Need to wire it in to the ECU, then my cluster will receive speedo over CAN BUS.

[WHO1DMC]

Just finished putting new foam in my door cards. I couldn?t stand the flat and lifeless look anymore. They turned out better than I thought.





Dave B.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230207/c2086cf9a77c6f24528d04646b081daf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230207/7bfcc3e9dd492656ee97f5ede59c24c1.jpg

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[Timeless]

Just finished putting new foam in my door cards. I couldn?t stand the flat and lifeless look anymore. They turned out better than I thought.
I plan to tackle the door panel project this year. Did you use the DGo kit?

[WHO1DMC]

I plan to tackle the door panel project this year. Did you use the DGo kit?

Yes I got just the foam and glue from them. I went with the can of glue instead of the tube. It's a little more but I wanted to be sure I had enough as well.



Dave B.

[DavidProehl]

Just finished putting new foam in my door cards. I couldn?t stand the flat and lifeless look anymore. They turned out better than I thought.


Dave B.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk

Love this! Looks fantastic. What is the process on this? Do you need to pull it all apart and re-glue to get the new foam in there? Would be interested in doing this project as well.

[WHO1DMC]

Love this! Looks fantastic. What is the process on this? Do you need to pull it all apart and re-glue to get the new foam in there? Would be interested in doing this project as well.
I kinda went with this. https://timemachine16606.tumblr.com/post/164973543326/door-card-restoration And the directions with the glue that was on the can. I glued the stitched area's first than the edges. You almost don't need to use clamps but in a few places they helped. https://a.co/d/j9fg7IK




Thanks
Dave B.

[DavidProehl]

I kinda whent with this. https://timemachine16606.tumblr.com/post/164973543326/door-card-restoration And the directions with the glue that was on the can. I glued the stitched area's first than the edges. You almost don't need to use clamps but in a few places they helped. https://a.co/d/j9fg7IK




Thanks
Dave B.

Great tutorial! Thanks for the link!

[Bitsyncmaster]

I had stated a while ago my screw in otterstat was turning my fans on all the time. So I just unplugged the otterstat since my electronic otterstat works as the backup. Well looking at a small oil leak I have I noticed the otterstat had some coolant leaking from it. So I replaced it today. Hope this one lasts longer then that first one. Looks like the leak was from the plastic cast where it should seal to the metal housing.

[Timeless]

I had stated a while ago my screw in otterstat was turning my fans on all the time. So I just unplugged the otterstat since my electronic otterstat works as the backup. Well looking at a small oil leak I have I noticed the otterstat had some coolant leaking from it. So I replaced it today. Hope this one lasts longer then that first one. Looks like the leak was from the plastic cast where it should seal to the metal housing.
What otterstat pipe do you have? I just ordered a DMCH screw-in otterstat w/pipe to replace my original one. Original isn't leaking (yet) but the plan is to upgrade it when I replace the original fans.

[Bitsyncmaster]

What otterstat pipe do you have? I just ordered a DMCH screw-in otterstat w/pipe to replace my original one. Original isn't leaking (yet) but the plan is to upgrade it when I replace the original fans.

Not sure if I got it from Ed or Dgo. I bought it some time ago.

[WHO1DMC]

Cleaned up the throttle body. I wasn't going for the brand new look just a good cleaning and ad an upgrade. I was kinda wondering how the spring would clean up but I think it did very well. As far as I could tell it has never been off. I did check for the backup rings and they were there.




Dave B.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230321/abe3a4406fdfae3139251c975cd03cb6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230321/539ab4c3e833edfeb1e04455bd2e6df6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230321/f3cb1946de1f4fabc4a5865917639bf9.jpg

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[81dmc]

Retuned my idle today while sitting in some traffic.

I fully introduced the idle correction timing curve and tweaked the AC idle up settings to 400ms delay and 45 steps. Now it doesn't swing so wildly.

[CyberBill]

Fixed my sticking driver's door!!

I've had an issue for the last 6 months where my driver's door would stick and not let me open the door. Since I've been doing the EV conversion during this time it wasn't really an issue I needed to fix, so I put it off. But now that the car is drivable, I need to be able to reliably open the door for safety reasons and just general usability.

Getting the door panels removed was fairly easy, although all of the 'how-to' threads here on the forum don't have pictures anymore. My fir tree mounts are all junk. Once I got into the door I found that I was certainly not the first to do it!! The door lock solenoid is gone, the plastic sheeting was gone, there were missing screws, and there were some cut wires. While it was open I gave everything a little cleaning and lubricating. Then worked to figure out what the issue was by disconnecting the rods and seeing what was sticking - lots of test opening and closing the door.

Eventually I worked out that the rear latch adjustment was too long and needed to be shortened by a turn or two, and the rod that goes from the lock bell crank to the lock mechanism on the arm rest was too short or bent out of shape. I used a hammer to bend it back and lengthen it a bit, and then moved the lock 'back' a bit (there is a little play in the screw holes). I also found that one of the rear rods 'L' end was a bit too long and was sometimes catching on the latch bell crank, so I shortened it by 1/8" with a finger sander. The missing screws were replaced with some stainless steel ones.

The door now locks and unlocks as one would expect, and is no longer sticking! It took about 4 hours for the whole operation.

[aotmfilms]

Just Luggage and Louvre struts plus installed a new battery. Cleaned all contacts. Performed Tune up, changed airfilter... thermo switch Cold start issue. Changed out some fuzes. at 34,350 miles. 2nd owner. vin 5778

Runs better than before. Just stuff I did over winter. Not much.

Thanks for reading.

Doug

[Rich]

List of our D's winter season repairs and upgrades, Oct. 22 through March. 23:


Installed DeLorean EU radiator (37yr old brass rad leaked) and DPNW rad fans while there (thanks again, Mark)
Replaced rad cap - 5yr old cap held 10psi
Replaced 4yr old battery
Replaced failed reverse light switch
Sanded/tapered the end of the vacuum actuator arm on the heater-A/C distr. housing eliminating occasional air door slapping sound during actuations
Prev Maint items: annual oil & filter change, 3yr coolant change, cleaned fuse blades and bulkhead connectors, 5yr TABs inspection

[Bitsyncmaster]

Took the D to the post office today and had to turn around and go home. Car would hesitate when accelerating really bad. Seemed to work fine not under load and would idle fine. My guess is I need to replace the fuel filter. It's been about 15 years since it's been replaced. Guess the air filter is due also.

[rgehrig]

Mine is with Phoenix Delorean AZ for some much needed work.
17800 miles and pretty original.
All new hoses, fuel lines, fuel distributor overhaul, New Injectors, New Engine seals.
Gearbox overhaul, found a couple of potential problems, fixed before they became catastrophic. Clutch and flywheel.
Suspension upgrades, brake overhaul.
New fuel pump and sender.
Cooling Update
Drive Train Service
Engine Out Service
Roof Box Service
A/C update
New Stereo and speakers and Backup Camera
Cruise Control
Auto Headlights
Hopefully will have it back sometime in April.

[ssdelorean]

Fill the tank and drive.

Broke my D out of hibernation yesterday. And in a half an hours time I gave a stranger a ride who pulled into gas station just to ask me if he could take a picture of the car. Let another couple take photos of the car and nearly gave the guy a heart attack when I told him to take a seat and I will take his picture in the car. And one other super tuff leather wearing Harley dude walked by and just said, "F'n A Bro, F'n A". I took it as a complement! :-)

[Mark D]

super tuff leather wearing Harley dude walked by and just said, "F'n A Bro, F'n A".

Did he look like this, and tell you that if he had a million dollars he'd do two chicks at the same time?


https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=69547&d=1680528536

[ssdelorean]

Did he look like this, and tell you that if he had a million dollars he'd do two chicks at the same time?


https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=69547&d=1680528536

Ha!

No. And he didn't look like he had a case of the Mondays either!

[82DMC12]

I've been tidying up a few little things while waiting for my headlight brackets, buckets, and hardware to get refinished.

First I re-installed my hood back up release cable and actually improved it. I used a much longer steel wire (leftover DPI throttle wire, actually) so that the pull loop comes outside of the car so that you can get more leverage and a better pull-angle. Also gives you the ability repair the loop if it gets damaged or loose in the future (I smash those ferrules with a hammer on a jack stand or vise). I also added a piece of small diameter vacuum hose so that there's a nice comfortable pull.

Second, I had a couple of broken captive nuts for the top of the fascia. My car actually has had M6 cap screws since before my ownership at least. They were screwed into M6 threaded captive speed nuts. While looking at the parts book, I see the listed part is a SEM screw with integrated washer, and a smaller speed nut for machine screws. I don't like that idea so I'm going back to M6 cap screws. I ordered new threaded speed nuts from Belmetric. They had a spring-like retainer which I removed with a dremel so they can move around a bit more and not interfere with fascia alignment.

69550










Improved backup hood release









69551








Original-style SEM screw with washer in a small speed clip and my updated threaded speed clip below.











69552

[CyberBill]

Had a really fun day today with the DeLorean. :)

I was able to drive it around town, put about 15 miles on it, and confirm that nothing is binding or rubbing. I get some squeaks sometimes (brakes, maybe suspension?) - but it's minor. Acceleration with the EV drive train is, as expected, fantastic. Power steering is wayyy too light, so I'll need to adjust the power down. (somehow!) The position of the brake pedal is awesome, but accelerator pedal needs some work.

There is a local dance group that is having a Back to the Future themed dance, and they invited me to bring the car and put it on display, so that will be the first time that Project Lightning is on public display - which is cool!!

[Timeless]

SS hood intrusion brackets and custom stainless bolts.
69598

[Bitsyncmaster]

SS hood intrusion brackets and custom stainless bolts.
69598

I was thinking of making new SS brackets since I would like to offset V cut to line up with the bumper.

[82DMC12]

It was time to replace my hood emblem. The emblem edges are not parallel to any other edges on the hood or fascia so you have to be creative with a method to make sure the new one goes where the old one was. I did not want to use a marker because I also intended on re-brushing the SS under the emblem.

I used wide painter tape to trace the top and side edges, using tape much longer than needed, this way I could remove some of the tape for the re-brushing but then use the outer edges of the tape to lay NEW tape over it, reestablishing my guide lines.

1. Set tape onto the hood as described, and extra tape on the fascia to protect it while re-brushing
2. Using a heat gun on LOW and using a plastic body pry tool, heat the edge of the emblem while constantly moving the heat gun, until you can slide the pry tool under the edge.
3. Continue heating the emblem in sections, just enough to get the tool to slide further and further with each new heated section. Eventually the emblem will lift away.
4. Remove the old adhesive as best you can with heat gun plus pry tool, then rags and mineral spirits, and finally with a razor blade if needed (No it did NOT scratch the SS)
5. Remove the tape directly above the emblem and about half of the tape on either side of it. This will allow you to rebrush the body where the emblem was.
6. Using a sanding hand block with 120 grit wrapped around it, move the block in one direction only using light pressure from half way up the hood downward to the edge of the fascia, continue until all trace of the old emblem is gone. Feather by doing a few passes, lighter and lighter to the left and right so it blends.
7. Follow the same sequence with the gray blending pad and handle for blending the body
8. Clean the area well with windex and towels, allow to dry completely
9. Overlay new tape over what remains of the old tape, there should be sufficient tape to re-establish the guide lines for the new tape.
10. Now that you have a new piece of tape for the top and sides of the emblem, you can lay the new emblem in exactly the same place as the old emblem on nice freshly brushed stainless.

69603




Here is the new tape laid over the old tape after brushing. The emblem goes below the crosswise tape. To rebrush, I removed the center piece of tape and then the inside half of each front-to-back strip. That way I had enough remaining to line up again later.











69604






Finished! Looks perfect.

[TheStoot]

Installed the Duralaat starter from autozone, #61984. Very easy install, found the previous owner had broken 1 of the bolts off on a mounting tab and rather than replace the bolt, put a roll pin in place of it to "hold it in place". Ughhh. I put in a new bolt when installing the new one. The starter that came out was a bosch.69607

[BakerCo]

I forget how old these cars are until I start working on them! :shocked:

This spring I'm doing a bunch of interior repairs/upgrades:
* Replacing headliners - the sun visor bracket bolt was rusted in place, broke, had to drill out the rivets to get them off.
* Replacing an early 2000's Alpine CD player (nice, but no bluetooth which is 99% of what I use these days and my CD collection is dwindling) with a retro looking head end.
* Replacing all four speakers - they appear to be original given how crusty they are - and never sounded good. Goodness that vinyl you need to peel back to get the the rears is brittle!
* Installing a new LED A/C panel, replacing some bulbs with LEDs.
* Updating some switches - don't get me started on the rear defrost switch - I bought a new one, it promptly self destructed, and wouldn't go back together after hours of infuriating tweezer work yesterday. :banghead:

The way it looks now, I don't know if it'll ever be back together. Wish me luck y'all!

[Timeless]

* Replacing headliners - the sun visor bracket bolt was rusted in place, broke, had to drill out the rivets to get them off.

In case you don't already know, DPI sells stainless visor bracket kits.

[BakerCo]

In case you don't already know, DPI sells stainless visor bracket kits.

Thanks! I already have a set from DeloreanGo.com, honestly wasn't even aware of DPI. I have to get up to speed on these acronyms and the who's who in the current market. DMCEU, DMCH, DPI, PJ Grady, SpecialTAuto... Is there a reference anywhere on the forums?

[Timeless]

Thanks! I already have a set from DeloreanGo.com, honestly wasn't even aware of DPI. I have to get up to speed on these acronyms and the who's who in the current market. DMCEU, DMCH, DPI, PJ Grady, SpecialTAuto... Is there a reference anywhere on the forums?
deloreandirectory.com is helpful. There is info in the product review forum and this:

https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?297-My-Favorite-DeLorean-Web-Sites-Part-I-of-II

[WHO1DMC]

Upgraded to Dgo vented rotors with new pads all 4 corners and new bearings the old ones were good but a bit leaky. New PCB and LEDs for binnacle. Cleaned butterfly assembly and added the updated throttle spacer.
Now waiting on new hankooks to be mounted.





Dave B.

[WHO1DMC]

Had my new hankook tires mounted today.
All in all not to bad. Had to post some pics of the weights. I was a little worried about how many they would take. I think one of my rims probably broke the record with absolutely no weights. I never seen a perfect wheel balance.
The wheels were perfectly clean so you can probably tell they had a little struggle.




Dave B.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230426/141e9a7e66bfe198e4d8dc8797604570.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230426/09c4fab5e7830fba62a9d84b338dda6a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230426/445ff3d4718ff4f3120752f203cb2038.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230426/52fe1f9aae4ce2839a7c2c5d5c947bbf.jpg

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[Coppertank]

First bath of the year after spending a winter in the garage for an ECU upgrade!

69622

[Kukem]

Installed new door struts, LED door lights and an air filter today. Also met up with a local Bricklin while out for a cruise.

[Helirich]

So a super car show today. This year they gave me top billing. (Parking me with the big boys) Again, I was the only Delorean.

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They gave me plenty of space. Not sure if it was the value of the car or they know how I drive. Lol.

69634

It was fun and I also got to shop some waterfront property.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

I was demonstrating my third brake light to an owner today and it did not work. Turns out the brake light switch closes with somewhere between 200 ohms to 10 ohms most of the time and only rarely will is get zero ohms. The switch was the first thing I replaced when I got my car 15 years ago because it was bad. Now this NOS one has gone bad so I'm going to try another manufacture for a new switch. I know these switches are very cheap but they should not fail like this especially using LEDs (under 2 amps).

[paullckby]

Hello everyone! I just bought 6095 which apparently nobody has any record of. It was bought by a holding company in 1983 and has been in storage since 1991. I'm only the second owner. It's not in terrible shape but just needs a lot of engine work to replace original components.

I've got one question (for now). My doors look like a bad art project (see picture). What is up with the paper and the foam sticking out? Did someone do a poor job reattaching the door panel? Both sides look like this. 69646

[DavidProehl]

Hello everyone! I just bought 6095 which apparently nobody has any record of. It was bought by a holding company in 1983 and has been in storage since 1991. I'm only the second owner. It's not in terrible shape but just needs a lot of engine work to replace original components.

I've got one question (for now). My doors look like a bad art project (see picture). What is up with the paper and the foam sticking out? Did someone do a poor job reattaching the door panel? Both sides look like this. 69646

Congrats on your purchase!

That foam is completely normal, part of the lower door panel. I think it is there to reduce rattle noise. The paper might be the edge of the plastic vapor barrier. From the factory there was a barrier between the door panel and the door internals. Mine was removed by a previous owner so I've never seen it in person, I think at this point most have had that removed.

The point is, this looks stock to me. These cars were assembled mostly by hand in the factory by people who hadn't built cars before. There are fit and finish issues on almost every one of them in different locations. Gives them character!

[paullckby]

Congrats on your purchase!

That foam is completely normal, part of the lower door panel. I think it is there to reduce rattle noise. The paper might be the edge of the plastic vapor barrier. From the factory there was a barrier between the door panel and the door internals. Mine was removed by a previous owner so I've never seen it in person, I think at this point most have had that removed.

The point is, this looks stock to me. These cars were assembled mostly by hand in the factory by people who hadn't built cars before. There are fit and finish issues on almost every one of them in different locations. Gives them character!

Thanks for letting me know it's normal! I have to take the door panels off to replace the window motors (they kinda make a noise and do nothing) so soon it will likely be gone like everyone else's.

[MrChocky]

Guy came up to me today, explained he had various JZD books, poster, etc etc, real "true believer" type. He was in his 50s had been a fan of the car forever. I let him sit in the car, and he broken into tears.

Pretty sure I'm not the only one this has happened to.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I was demonstrating my third brake light to an owner today and it did not work. Turns out the brake light switch closes with somewhere between 200 ohms to 10 ohms most of the time and only rarely will is get zero ohms. The switch was the first thing I replaced when I got my car 15 years ago because it was bad. Now this NOS one has gone bad so I'm going to try another manufacture for a new switch. I know these switches are very cheap but they should not fail like this especially using LEDs (under 2 amps).

Got a new brake light switch and tested it and got poor resistance on the new one also. Lucky I could open this one up and shoot some solvent on the contacts and that fixed it. Solid zero ohms every time. Must have had some grease on the contacts.

[mhanch]

I stalled DPNW fans today. took 3.5 hours but easy overall.

[FLUX @88]

I was demonstrating my third brake light to an owner today and it did not work. Turns out the brake light switch closes with somewhere between 200 ohms to 10 ohms most of the time and only rarely will is get zero ohms. The switch was the first thing I replaced when I got my car 15 years ago because it was bad. Now this NOS one has gone bad so I'm going to try another manufacture for a new switch. I know these switches are very cheap but they should not fail like this especially using LEDs (under 2 amps).

My original was faulty when I first purchased my car. Replaced with one from DMCH and it lasted maybe 9 months before It started to act up again... Replaced again and been going ok. Think i'll keep a spare in the glove box.

[82DMC12]

Installed PJ Grady's one piece speedometer cable. This replaces the lower speedo cable, upper cable, and lambda box. I bought it because the lower speedo cable I bought from a different vendor snapped in half inside the jacket with no clear explanation why. There is no binding in any other component and I had lubricated the cable with a small amount of KABLE-EASE because for some reason it was supplied to me totally dry inside. It didn't even last 500 miles, it just snapped inside with no warning.

Anyway, the new Grady cable is an easy install if you have ever removed the binnacle before. Less than an hour later I was test driving the car and my speedometer needle is smoother than it has been in 23 years. Very happy with the purchase.

[FLUX @88]

Installed PJ Grady's one piece speedometer cable. This replaces the lower speedo cable, upper cable, and lambda box. I bought it because the lower speedo cable I bought from a different vendor snapped in half inside the jacket with no clear explanation why. There is no binding in any other component and I had lubricated the cable with a small amount of KABLE-EASE because for some reason it was supplied to me totally dry inside. It didn't even last 500 miles, it just snapped inside with no warning.

Anyway, the new Grady cable is an easy install if you have ever removed the binnacle before. Less than an hour later I was test driving the car and my speedometer needle is smoother than it has been in 23 years. Very happy with the purchase.

how much was the cable? I see the website is down for repairs.

[82DMC12]

how much was the cable? I see the website is down for repairs.It was about $80.

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[Timeless]

Cooling system upgrades & some DPI stainless & billet goodies. In addition, a screw in otterstat pipe and silicone radiator connections.
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[82DMC12]

Last night I decided to fix a very slight seepage from my differential adjusting nut. If you've been following me, you might recall I recently finished a frame replacement and during that process I re-sealed the transmission and basically gave it a 40-year check up. I confirmed the leak with a UV light but felt comfortable enough with how the adjusting nut works that I wasn't worried about removing it and applying some hylomar to it. I was lucky enough to score a Kent Moore UN1 adjusting nut tool which you turn with a 1/2" ratchet. I used a paint pen to mark the diff nut and took a photo of the position of the clip relative to the M8 screw so that I was sure I had nut back in the same position it was in prior to removal. I also set the parking brake so that the differential would not turn while working. The whole process took less than hour and my test drive went fine. I'll continue to monitor but I'd be extremely surprised if it still leaks now.

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[TGGreene]

That's heart breaking. I own several hot rods, some quite fast (quarter mile) and visually impressive, but the DeLorean is by far the most fun car I own to drive. Not because it's a technological powerhouse, but because of it's... "status", so to speak. Almost everyone has seen those movies, but the vast majority (at least in middle GA) have never actually SEEN a DeLorean. Literally EVERY time I take that car out, I have people honking, giving the thumbs up, etc. Almost every time I've stopped for gas, people walk up and ask if I mind if they have a look. I've had several ask me if I minded if they took pictures. Hang onto that car. I have cars that will make a fool of it technically, but that's one of the most fun cars you'll ever drive.


me? ive not done anything with mine. its actually becoming an eye sore because i bought it as a project to work on at school where im going, but i had to send the title back to the person i bought it off of because it was an estate vehicle and i couldnt get it switched in my homestate because the owner and seller were 2 different people, so i sent the title back almost 3 months ago and havent got it let alone hear anything too constructive from the seller. i came within a fly's hair of parting it out (but im not going to do that after thinking about it for a loooooooong time). mines depressing everytime i look at it.

[AirmanPika]

I'M BACK!

That said..finally replacing the radiator and AC. Yanked out the full cooling assembly today. Much easier if you take the bumper off (and your AC is evacuated so you can simply disconnect the whole thing as one). I think I may just grab a new condenser and fans now that I have the whole thing off. Next step is the compressor, hoses, and accumulator. Goal being RC134a after all is said and done.

[82DMC12]

Didn't know I was supposed to set the tie rod pre-tension to a certain amount last time I had the rack out, so the result was a bit of play in the rack/steering wheel especially noticeable at high speed.

I took the rack out again and drilled out the pins, replaced the springs and cups with new parts from Grady, then tightened the outer silver nut until I had about 5 lbs force required to pull the tie rod through an upward arc (measured with a spring scale). Repeated on both sides, reinstalled the rack, and now no more play in the steering AT ALL. Smooth as butter and tighter than a gnat's ass.

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[WHO1DMC]

Had to take my D to the shop for the first time in my 8 years of ownership. Putting in a new clutch because the throwout bearing seized. Now I'm waiting on the flywheel to get machined. She only has a little over 19k on her. I know what some will say but I replaced a somewhat jumpy original but functional angle drive shortly after getting the car.




Dave B.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230530/086d16836dbae8a99e5bf646686b5df1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230530/b2bfc1bdbbb705c4a63bcc2a0e530562.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230530/fbe469e16c71771b2b85307ce5c61e19.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230530/7812c7ed32c8f4aa2da27523efa4470d.jpg

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[82DMC12]

Had to take my D to the shop for the first time in my 8 years of ownership. Putting in a new clutch because the throwout bearing seized. Now I'm waiting on the flywheel to get machined. She only has a little over 19k on her. I know what some will say but I replaced a somewhat jumpy original but functional angle drive shortly after getting the car.




Dave B.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230530/086d16836dbae8a99e5bf646686b5df1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230530/b2bfc1bdbbb705c4a63bcc2a0e530562.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230530/fbe469e16c71771b2b85307ce5c61e19.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230530/7812c7ed32c8f4aa2da27523efa4470d.jpg

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No fun. Don't forget to smear the pivot ball and fill the dust boot with 50/50 red grease and anti seize. That will eliminate a squeaky clutch operation.

[AirmanPika]

Been recoating the bumper foam while I wait for a few more parts to arrive.

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[Helirich]

This may not go with the tittle, but?..

My wife and I go to a fancy seaside restaurant at least twice a month. This place is about an hour away. We almost always go in the D. Last Sunday, we went, but because we had some other business there, we took my truck. Wouldn?t you know it, I parked right by a guy in a Tesla with gull wing doors. I had never seen one before and I was really wishing I drove the D.

[glockworks21]

This may not go with the tittle, but?..

My wife and I go to a fancy seaside restaurant at least twice a month. This place is about an hour away. We almost always go in the D. Last Sunday, we went, but because we had some other business there, we took my truck. Wouldn?t you know it, I parked right by a guy in a Tesla with gull wing doors. I had never seen one before and I was really wishing I drove the D.



guy saw me and went back to get his x so he could take pics....

[Timeless]

For those who have not seen it yet:
https://youtu.be/PbZSDI1onFE

[Helirich]

For those who have not seen it yet:
https://youtu.be/PbZSDI1onFE

Same old ?chop job? on Deloreans. We?ll see if anyone wants a TeslaX in 40 years.

[DavidProehl]

This is now the second time I've had to replace it. The last time I did so was 11 years and 11,000 miles ago. Is that reasonable? This seems like a part that shouldn't wear much as there isn't a lot of reverse driving happening.

I get it typically gets oil logged and shorts, but still, 11,000 miles seems quick. This time I added a crush washer to see if that seals it better in case there was an issue with an little oil leaking.

[81dmc]

Yesterday, I began work on widening my shift hole for the manual shift lever. Looks terrible (wrong tools), but who cares? Nobody will see it!
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And today, I got my UN1 case halves and rear cover together. Installed DeLorean MW coupler and DeloreanGo seals and roll pins.
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Just some advice for others. If you use Loctite 609 for the bearings, you need to get your case together super quick. I waited too long and it hardened, which caused a bind in one bearing. So I had to take it apart and start over again.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well I washed my car yesterday. Something I never do. Now I remember why I never do it......water spots. I usually just hand clean it with spray wash and a towel. Now the extra effort to do the usual wash to remove the water spots. Nothing seems to remove those water spots on the stainless. I use to have a chamois but old age has lost that.

[jawn101]

Well I washed my car yesterday. Something I never do. Now I remember why I never do it......water spots. I usually just hand clean it with spray wash and a towel. Now the extra effort to do the usual wash to remove the water spots. Nothing seems to remove those water spots on the stainless. I use to have a chamois but old age has lost that.

Ugh I feel this deeply. We have very hard water in my town and I washed the car one time with it. Hot vinegar will do a lot to remove the spots but may not be totally perfect. I had to take a few off with a blending pad. Since then I have installed a water softener in the house and only wash the car with a hose hooked directly to it, no more problems.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Got my car running good (knock on wood). I think the problem was a bug in my lambda ECU software but I did other software improvements in it also.

Anyway my car has a vibration (sounds like the dash is vibrating) under heavy load (hard acceleration or going up hill). I think I will first empty my glove box and test, then I think I can use some sand bag weights to determine if and where the dash need work.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Found and fixed one of the vibrations I'm getting with hard acceleration (worst in third gear). My ECU metal plate (holds the three ECUs) was only held down by one screw. The others had to cut off a long time ago. I now have it screwed down with three screws.

But still have a vibration which sounds like behind the driver. Thinking it is my sun shield. I think I need to adjust the latch tighter so it takes a little down force to lock closed.

[paullckby]

Today I put the carpeting into the trunk. I got them from DeLoreanGo and they didn't quite fit exactly. I had to cut them a little bit ultimately around where the door strut attaches and along one of the edges that was very off. But, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out!

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Earlier in this thread I asked about why the seam between the door and the door panel looked all janky. It was not made janky at the factory. It was someone who did a poor job reassembling the door panels and all the stuff poking through was disintegrating duct tape.

[TheStoot]

Today I put the carpeting into the trunk. I got them from DeLoreanGo and they didn't quite fit exactly. I had to cut them a little bit ultimately around where the door strut attaches and along one of the edges that was very off. But, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out!

69885

Earlier in this thread I asked about why the seam between the door and the door panel looked all janky. It was not made janky at the factory. It was someone who did a poor job reassembling the door panels and all the stuff poking through was disintegrating duct tape.

That's how mine is also, I believe it's factory and just has not held up over time

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well I washed my car yesterday. Something I never do. Now I remember why I never do it......water spots. I usually just hand clean it with spray wash and a towel. Now the extra effort to do the usual wash to remove the water spots. Nothing seems to remove those water spots on the stainless. I use to have a chamois but old age has lost that.

Just tried FORMULA 409 spray cleaner and it seems to remove water spots from glass and even helps lessen the spots on the SS.

[nkemp]

Well I washed my car yesterday. Something I never do. Now I remember why I never do it......water spots. I usually just hand clean it with spray wash and a towel. Now the extra effort to do the usual wash to remove the water spots. Nothing seems to remove those water spots on the stainless. I use to have a chamois but old age has lost that.

Softened water (or rain water) is a must ... in the shade. I use a squeegee to remove the water and then towel it. Something you could try on the spots is CLR given that the spots are likely Calcium. Vinegar might work as well. Good luck.

[bytes311]

I recently got a 3d printer and been having a blast. Made a few things:

New latch cover for the glove box since my old one kept popping off (never mind the taped up kneepad). 70000

Made a pair of A/C vent caps. 69998

Made a couple brackets for the door switches for extra strength. 70002 70003

A blanking cap for the passenger side door. 69999

Alignment plate for the console switches so they don't bottom out and bind. 70001

[AugustneverEnds]

I recently got a 3d printer and been having a blast. Made a few things:

New latch cover for the glove box since my old one kept popping off (never mind the taped up kneepad). 70000

Made a pair of A/C vent caps. 69998

Made a couple brackets for the door switches for extra strength. 70002 70003

A blanking cap for the passenger side door. 69999

Alignment plate for the console switches so they don't bottom out and bind. 70001

Really impressive.

[iflights]

Really impressive. Would you be willing to share the .stl files used? If not all, please consider sharing out the one for the door switches. As you are aware, that bezel is a great solution for that area.

[Lwanmtr]

Realy cool. I'll ask also..would you be willing to share the stl files? :)

[bytes311]

Thanks. All of them are available on Thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/bytes311/designs

[L3V3L1]

I recently got a 3d printer and been having a blast. Made a few things:

New latch cover for the glove box since my old one kept popping off (never mind the taped up kneepad). 70000

Made a pair of A/C vent caps. 69998

Made a couple brackets for the door switches for extra strength. 70002 70003

A blanking cap for the passenger side door. 69999

Alignment plate for the console switches so they don't bottom out and bind. 70001
This is some nice work. Do you think these are possible via 3d printing?70004

[bytes311]

This is some nice work. Do you think these are possible via 3d printing?70004

I've seen someone on Reddit 3d print a full sized grille, so not out of the question!

[Lwanmtr]

Thanks, much appreciated.

Bytes, yeah if you have the exact measurements of the opening, anything is possible with a large enough printer.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Softened water (or rain water) is a must ... in the shade. I use a squeegee to remove the water and then towel it. Something you could try on the spots is CLR given that the spots are likely Calcium. Vinegar might work as well. Good luck.

I pulled my car outside today and that 409 cleaner did nothing for water spots. I tried CLR and it seems to work pretty good. I also found my spray tire cleaner seems to work a little better than CLR for water spots. The problem is the spots show up in the sun but it's not good to try to clean it in the sun. I will never again wash the car without drying it. But the effort to dry it, why not just clean the car by hand with a spay cleaner and a roll of paper towels.

[mhanch]

Just replaced my Catalytic converter with the Euro one from Delorean go. Not hard to do, and the car drives and smells way better. My original was definitely clogged or at least not flowing well.


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[Nioreh]

Replaced my partially melted fuse box. That was a lot of work in a weird angle my body didn't like.

[Helirich]

I pulled my car outside today and that 409 cleaner did nothing for water spots. I tried CLR and it seems to work pretty good. I also found my spray tire cleaner seems to work a little better than CLR for water spots. The problem is the spots show up in the sun but it's not good to try to clean it in the sun. I will never again wash the car without drying it. But the effort to dry it, why not just clean the car by hand with a spay cleaner and a roll of paper towels.

I wonder if you could blow dry the car. I know they make blowers specifically for this, but maybe just a leaf blower.

[Helirich]

This is some nice work. Do you think these are possible via 3d printing?70004

Do those open/close by a motor? More info?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I wonder if you could blow dry the car. I know they make blowers specifically for this, but maybe just a leaf blower.

I never thought of that. Probably would work but I've decided to just clean the car via spray cleaner and rags from now on.

[FABombjoy]

I use a leaf blower & silicone squeegee. Leaf blower is about the best way to get water out of the grille / taillights / side mirrors.

[nkemp]

Alignment plate for the console switches so they don't bottom out and bind. 70001

Are those switches the readily available narrower switches?

[bytes311]

Are those switches the readily available narrower switches?

No, they are the regular sized ones.

[L3V3L1]

Do those open/close by a motor? More info?

Sorry to be misleading, this is a Photoshop.

[Mark D]

Back into winter storage she goes.

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=70142&d=1699390792


New storage buddy this year, my 2002 BMW 325i Touring.

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=70143&d=1699390807


https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=70144&d=1699390838


I measured ahead of time, and knew it was going to be a tight squeeze. I've got about 2 inches to the rear wall, 3 inches between cars and about 6 inches to the garage door.

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=70145&d=1699390937

[DMC5180]

It was tempting to put it away yesterday but decided to wait a couple more weeks.


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[Mark D]

It was tempting to put it away yesterday but decided to wait a couple more weeks.


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Did you guys get much snow on Halloween? We got blasted with like 3 inches and they dumped a bunch of salt on the roads. It really sucks because it all melted and the weather is suppose to still be in the mid 40's and low 50's for the next few weeks. It would have been nice to get one last drive in for the year.

[DMC5180]

Not really, it stayed just north of us. I drove through it heading north to work Tuesday morning. The stretch between Tomah and Black River Falls had serious black ice on Bridges.


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[82DMC12]

Not yet winter in Kansas City so I addressed a couple of small issues -

1) I have the Redline Goods black leather shift boot mounted on a DPI boot frame. The leather is really nice and high quality but for some reason the top opening is too big to be retained by the flange built into the shift lever. For now, the leather is stiff enough where it mostly stays up and in place but I am sure as it wears in it will keep sliding down. I bought a leather sewing kit with black waxed thread and cinched up the top of the boot so it stays in place under an M8 washer, the nut, and the shift ball. Now it's perfect!

2) Finally added a fire extinguisher to the car. I bought a H3R 2.5 lb halon extinguisher from Summit. At first I considered just leaving it between the passenger seat and door sill, and then considered mounting it above my subwoofer box behind the driver seat, before finally deciding to just leave the damn thing on the floor behind the seat. Hopefully never have to use it!

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[Michael]

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I like your amp and speaker install! That's clean!

[82DMC12]

Thank you! I suppose that stuff is over 15 years old now. I believe the amp has a tiny power draw when the car is off, I'm not sure if that's normal or not but I can't replace it because the amp is NLA. I would have to get a new surround board made if I got a different amp. Funny thing is I don't listen to the stereo that much. I kind of like to be aware of the car, engine, road noise, others around me.... driving in silence and being engaged is much more relaxing. I would use it more often on longer road trips. Need to get out more! Probably KY Bourbon Trail next spring.

[nkemp]

.... driving in silence and being engaged is much more relaxing.

What DeLorean did you get where you can use the word "silence"?;)

[82DMC12]

What DeLorean did you get where you can use the word "silence"?;)

Well, I guess it's a dull roar that you get used to! I have the DPI spec exhaust and honestly it's not that loud inside the cabin while driving. I think my old Stage 1 with Magnaflow muffer was louder. Not complaining though.

[ssdelorean]

.... [snip]..... Probably KY Bourbon Trail next spring.

Always wanted to visit that area, specifically that route and all the stops :-)
If you don't want to be the only D, I would love to join. Maybe others too!

[seventy4burban]

Okay the SEM trim black paint is FOUL......but it's going to look good.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231112/ad96b3a24955533265da96e2171304b3.jpg

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[seventy4burban]

Done.....with engine bay paint https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231112/fa680ebe148114e9a4fdcd14cb877017.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231112/e572e0e2f26509f95979ba83728fe9cc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231112/0a8a45fd9d81c5197ce421c8a270d65e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231112/4434a2ad2150a5d3463eecc523d601fa.jpg

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[82DMC12]

I'm in the process of fitting some aluminized heat sheathing over my red positive cables in the engine bay. I had already replaced some of them with 4 gauge stranded copper made-in-USA welding cable with terminals attached with a pneumatic crimper. No issues all year however I want make sure they are protected since they do run close to my passenger side header. The cable that runs from the bulkhead connector to the alternator runs under the starter so that was the first one I wanted to cover up.

I bought 1/2" ID DEI heat sheath (not the velcro type) and it was just right to run the wire with straight terminals though, however for the jump start post, which is the next most vulnerable wire, I need to order 1.25" ID sheathing so that it can slip over the flag terminals - I don't have any way to add new terminals of that type so I'll just use a bit bigger sheath. Thanks to Rodolfo for the idea and the part recommendations!

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[nkemp]

Rebuilt the WUR/CPR and now the car runs SOOOOO much better for the first minutes. I am no longer fogging the neighborhood for mosquitoes until it warms up.

If you should try this, take note that the eBay rebuild kit instructions leaves out a very important detail (no mention of it). That being to NOT lose the VERY SMALL cup the pin sits in when removing the round pressure plate (the cup is in the center of the plate). I didn't notice the part during disassembly but did recall hearing a "tick" (I thought the "tick" was from the rivet removed during disassembly). When putting it back together, after getting over the panic/cussing caused by the missing tiny unique, unobtanium part, I went back to where I heard the "tick" and there it was on the garage floor. Should you lose yours, I suspect that buying any model and the cheapest WUR/CPR and disassemble for that part. I suspect it is the same. No guarantee.

FWIW ... the FrankenCIS looks interesting in either the WUR replacement or as a total system controller option.

[SupercoolBill]

Rebuilt the WUR/CPR and now the car runs SOOOOO much better for the first minutes. I am no longer fogging the neighborhood for mosquitoes until it warms up.

If you should try this, take note that the eBay rebuild kit instructions leaves out a very important detail (no mention of it). That being to NOT lose the VERY SMALL cup the pin sits in when removing the round pressure plate (the cup is in the center of the plate). I didn't notice the part during disassembly but did recall hearing a "tick" (I thought the "tick" was from the rivet removed during disassembly). When putting it back together, after getting over the panic/cussing caused by the missing tiny unique, unobtanium part, I went back to where I heard the "tick" and there it was on the garage floor. Should you lose yours, I suspect that buying any model and the cheapest WUR/CPR and disassemble for that part. I suspect it is the same. No guarantee.

FWIW ... the FrankenCIS looks interesting in either the WUR replacement or as a total system controller option.Do you have any pics of your rebuild?

Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk

[nkemp]

Do you have any pics of your rebuild?

No. What are you looking for?

[DMC5180]

Rebuilt the WUR/CPR and now the car runs SOOOOO much better for the first minutes. I am no longer fogging the neighborhood for mosquitoes until it warms up.

If you should try this, take note that the eBay rebuild kit instructions leaves out a very important detail (no mention of it). That being to NOT lose the VERY SMALL cup the pin sits in when removing the round pressure plate (the cup is in the center of the plate). I didn't notice the part during disassembly but did recall hearing a "tick" (I thought the "tick" was from the rivet removed during disassembly). When putting it back together, after getting over the panic/cussing caused by the missing tiny unique, unobtanium part, I went back to where I heard the "tick" and there it was on the garage floor. Should you lose yours, I suspect that buying any model and the cheapest WUR/CPR and disassemble for that part. I suspect it is the same. No guarantee.

FWIW ... the FrankenCIS looks interesting in either the WUR replacement or as a total system controller option.

Nice job, Nick! This would have made a good ?How to Video? for the Resources section[emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nkemp]

Yes, I usually think I should have taken some photos or video when I'm nearly done.

I did create a how to with my comments and included the vendor's instructions. The instructions have a bunch of photos ... probably better than I would have made.

Next project ... that gosh darn AC leak.

[DMC5180]

Yes, I usually think I should have taken some photos or video when I'm nearly done.

I did create a how to with my comments and included the vendor's instructions. The instructions have a bunch of photos ... probably better than I would have made.

Next project ... that gosh darn AC leak.

Ah, chasing an A/C leak. so much fun. Mine turned out to be a defective Low pressure switch. If you see black dust sticking to the white plastic, it?s a possible indication. Of course I only found the leak after replacing the hoses and compressor, but I wanted to do that anyway. It?s been perfect ever since (2016)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Michael]

I'm in the process of fitting some aluminized heat sheathing over my red positive cables in the engine bay. I had already replaced some of them with 4 gauge stranded copper made-in-USA welding cable with terminals attached with a pneumatic crimper. No issues all year however I want make sure they are protected since they do run close to my passenger side header. The cable that runs from the bulkhead connector to the alternator runs under the starter so that was the first one I wanted to cover up.

I bought 1/2" ID DEI heat sheath (not the velcro type) and it was just right to run the wire with straight terminals though, however for the jump start post, which is the next most vulnerable wire, I need to order 1.25" ID sheathing so that it can slip over the flag terminals - I don't have any way to add new terminals of that type so I'll just use a bit bigger sheath. Thanks to Rodolfo for the idea and the part recommendations!

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I did something similar. I installed braided heat sleeves on my alternator wires since they were so close to the headers.
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[DavidProehl]

I finally got around to replacing the door card foam. Followed the instructions on the EuroTech forum (http://www.deloreaneurotec.uk/viewtopic.php?t=5313) which were excellent. I never realized how bad my doors looked until I saw David B's doors at a local event...I was instantly jealous. Very pleased with the result! Not a hard project, just a little bit of detail work with the foam cutting and gluing.


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[Stainless]

The rabbit hole of interior work continues. After ripping out a ton of wiring from the previous owner's aftermarket DVD player, I am going down the route of removing and restoring the evaporator unit from under the dash. Heaven help me.

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[WHO1DMC]

I finally got around to replacing the door card foam. Followed the instructions on the EuroTech forum (http://www.deloreaneurotec.uk/viewtopic.php?t=5313) which were excellent. I never realized how bad my doors looked until I saw David B's doors at a local event...I was instantly jealous. Very pleased with the result! Not a hard project, just a little bit of detail work with the foam cutting and gluing.


Before:
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After:
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I'm glad I could be the inspiration for you to do the job!

For other owners that are a little hesitant about doing this on their own, it really isn't that bad of a job. After 40 + years the material is permanently formed to the card backing so it makes it a easier job and the material isn't that expensive. This time of year if you're car is in slumber land it's a good time to do it!





So do it. You'll like the improvement!
Dave B.

[Timeless]

I'm glad I could be the inspiration for you to do the job!

For other owners that are a little hesitant about doing this on their own, it really isn't that bad of a job. After 40 + years the material is permanently formed to the card backing so it makes it a easier job and the material isn't that expensive. This time of year if you're car is in slumber land it's a good time to do it!

So do it. You'll like the improvement!
Good time to install the C. Miles door panel magnet modification for those not wanting to deal with snapped fir tree fasteners.

[WHO1DMC]

Good time to install the C. Miles door panel magnet modification for those not wanting to deal with snapped fir tree fasteners.I've been thinking about it!




Dave B.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk

[DavidProehl]

Good time to install the C. Miles door panel magnet modification for those not wanting to deal with snapped fir tree fasteners.

This project made me say I need to finally do those. I hate fir trees so bad. Adding to my to do list.

[CyberBill]

Did a video showing disassembly of the HVAC unit:

https://youtu.be/N-rDLjijrBw

I think I got most of the details right. :) Hopefully this is helpful to some people here!

For the last month I've been redoing all the wiring for the EV conversion, cutting a few hundred wires and labeling them for everything. I am now working on all the modules and electronics that will go under the dash (fuse box, body control module, radio, etc) and the big one there is the HVAC system. Today I spent a couple hours cutting the HVAC from my donor Bolt EV down to make it fit - which it mostly does!! Then this evening I have been 3d modeling a replacement for the recirculation flap thing. I didn't realize they were not available, and mine is absolutely disgusting and also broken. My design will use a stepper motor out of the Bolt EV to control the flap, rather than vacuum power.

[mike123]

That was very informative Bill, thanks for making it. It's so much easier to understand when seeing it in 3D rather than the 2D pictures in the workshop manual.

When looking at the wiring video, I was wondering... do you have a sense of how much less wiring there would be if you only used the EV motor/batteries and installed a vacuum pump and kept the stock brake system, climate control, etc.?

[Helirich]

Yes, nice video. I hope I can find it when I need it.

Thanks

[Rich]

Very nice explanatory video here. Thanks.

Recommending that Bill or one of the admins might re-post at least the video link if not the entire Post #9142 over to the Resources page of this forum (https://dmctalk.org/forumdisplay.php?5-Resources) for future general reference. It's helpful to any owner teasing apart a D's HVAC system whether they're doing an EV conversion or not.



Did a video showing disassembly of the HVAC unit:

https://youtu.be/N-rDLjijrBw

I think I got most of the details right. :) Hopefully this is helpful to some people here!

For the last month I've been redoing all the wiring for the EV conversion, cutting a few hundred wires and labeling them for everything. I am now working on all the modules and electronics that will go under the dash (fuse box, body control module, radio, etc) and the big one there is the HVAC system. Today I spent a couple hours cutting the HVAC from my donor Bolt EV down to make it fit - which it mostly does!! Then this evening I have been 3d modeling a replacement for the recirculation flap thing. I didn't realize they were not available, and mine is absolutely disgusting and also broken. My design will use a stepper motor out of the Bolt EV to control the flap, rather than vacuum power.

[Michael]

Started tearing down for my VOD refresh. Nothing concerning found, but it needs to be done every decade or so.

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[cis6409]

Great idea for the cups in the intake holes! , catches any debris easily and stops anything from passing inside:o

[Rich]

Installed a replacement radiator cap. Read the following story about it as a reminder to check yours from time to time.


After doing some work on the cooling system recently I performed a pressure-hold test. No issues - it held 16PSI cold overnight.

My Stant pressure test kit includes a radiator cap test adapter. I checked the cap's vent pressure while I had it off. The cap vented at just 10PSI, no long holding the specified 15PSI as it did when new just 5 years ago so I replaced it.

[AugustneverEnds]

Installed a replacement radiator cap. Read the following story about it as a reminder to check yours from time to time.


After doing some work on the cooling system recently I performed a pressure-hold test. No issues - it held 16PSI cold overnight.

My Stant pressure test kit includes a radiator cap test adapter. I checked the cap's vent pressure while I had it off. The cap vented at just 10PSI, no long holding the specified 15PSI as it did when new just 5 years ago so I replaced it.

What radiator do you have?

[Rich]

What radiator do you have?

Sorry, my mistake!

I meant so say I tested and replaced my failed Coolant Reservoir Cap, not the radiator cap.

Thanks for asking so I could clear this up.

(The D's coolant reservoir cap is identical to what was, back in the day, a conventional pressure-controlling and venting radiator cap. And the D's original radiator did use a cap but it wasn't a pressure relief/vent design so those caps seldom fail)

[Riley88]

Today i di a simpl,e but very annoying job. Replacing the rivers side very front speaker. Had to remove the seat and assume the lotus position. ah

[nkemp]

Today i di a simpl,e but very annoying job. Replacing the rivers side very front speaker. Had to remove the seat and assume the lotus position. ah

Just trying to spread the word on how to make the job easy (easier): https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8110-How-To-Front-speaker-replacement-made-easy

The first time getting them out is the hard part. But using standoffs makes reinstalling easy.
Nick

[Riley88]

Man this new keyboard is a real pos, I need to proof read more. Im totally watching that now.

[CyberBill]

do you have a sense of how much less wiring there would be if you only used the EV motor/batteries and installed a vacuum pump and kept the stock brake system, climate control, etc.?

Oh yeah, it would have been a gazillion times less electrical work to only do the motor, batteries, and inverter. In fact I could have also cut out most of the wiring to the brakes if I didn't care about dynamic assist (a handful of DeLorean owners have installed the iBooster and set it with a static assist amount, rather than changing based on speed).

It's obviously a compromise where you have to weigh the pros and cons of what kind of conversion you're doing. There are a lot of features I get 'for free' doing it this way - such as I don't have to worry about the BMS or programming logic for buttons or controls, I get the whole infotainment system that can control the car and set charge limits, I'll get DC Fast Charging, plus everything is on a 400V architecture and well tested with the Bolt. However on my next EV conversion I will be doing it the way you suggest. At the very least it will give me a more well rounded understanding of the pros and cons so that on my third conversion I'll be better informed!

[mike123]

Thanks Bill, that's great to hear. I am just trying to reconcile an estimate I got about a year ago from a conversion company (240 hours) which was for some mix-and-match components for heat/AC/brakes but no fast-charge or power steering. From what I understand, it seems like a BMS is very highly recommended and without it the battery lifetime is very low. Can't tell if you're kidding on the number of conversions; it's funny if you are, and awesome if you aren't!

[AugustneverEnds]

Sorry, my mistake!

I meant so say I tested and replaced my failed Coolant Reservoir Cap, not the radiator cap.

Thanks for asking so I could clear this up.

(The D's coolant reservoir cap is identical to what was, back in the day, a conventional pressure-controlling and venting radiator cap. And the D's original radiator did use a cap but it wasn't a pressure relief/vent design so those caps seldom fail)

When you said radiator cap my mind went, "Wow someone is still running a Dunmurry OEM radiator!!"

Thanks for clarifying because I've been running the DMCH radiator for over 11 years now and have never checked or even thought to check the cap.

[Timeless]

When you said radiator cap my mind went, "Wow someone is still running a Dunmurry OEM radiator!!"
My car had an original Dunmurry radiator functioning no problem in S. FL heat until it finally failed in 2023 - a small drip at an end tank seam.

[AugustneverEnds]

My car had an original Dunmurry radiator functioning no problem in S. FL heat until it finally failed in 2023 - a small drip at an end tank seam.

I love hearing stuff like this, proves DMC put together quality suppliers and built the cars well too. I'm not a gambling man but I'd wager very few cars built in the past 20 years have that kind of longevity. To be fair I can't think of many recent cars that inspire the passion to keep fixing them so far down the road. But that's just me.

[82DMC12]

I love hearing stuff like this, proves DMC put together quality suppliers and built the cars well too. I'm not a gambling man but I'd wager very few cars built in the past 20 years have that kind of longevity. To be fair I can't think of many recent cars that inspire the passion to keep fixing them so far down the road. But that's just me.The original Chausson radiators were not that great, you can go back to mid-80's DeLorean world magazines and see vendors selling upgraded radiators, all metal, etc "to cure your radiator woes".

Speaking of which there is a seller on eBay right now with three or four of the all brass radiators without the cap and with the petcock for sale right now.

Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

[JBaker4981]

Long time, no car-update...

Lots going on with #628 but her insides have vomitted all over my garage. In the last 48 hours, the speaker panels and its vinyl have been re-punched and looking brand new.
Before
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After
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[AugustneverEnds]

The original Chausson radiators were not that great, you can go back to mid-80's DeLorean world magazines and see vendors selling upgraded radiators, all metal, etc "to cure your radiator woes".

Speaking of which there is a seller on eBay right now with three or four of the all brass radiators without the cap and with the petcock for sale right now.

Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

I have read those. The OEM radiators had plastic side tanks, tended to crack. Or when you went to bleed the radiator the nipple would pull off with the hose. Makes Timeless' experience all the interesting.

It seems car manufacturers are going back to the way DMC equipped our cars, the last radiator change I assisted was on a 2014 BMW 550i with, you guessed it, cracked plastic sides. To boot, the water pump has a plastic impeller shaft. My 1988 325is still has its OEM all metal radiator, thanks very much.

[Helirich]

So the other day my wife got a new Corvette. We took the first ride down to our favorite restaurant for lunch. We had another couple as guests at our house from Canada. Since they couldn?t ride in the Vett, I offered for them to drive the D.

They followed us down.

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If your in Panama City, Unkle Ernie?s is a must.

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My wife was disappointed that people were ignoring her car to get a look at the D. Lol.

[Michael]

So the other day my wife got a new Corvette. We took the first ride down to our favorite restaurant for lunch. We had another couple as guests at our house from Canada. Since they couldn?t ride in the Vett, I offered for them to drive the D.

They followed us down.

70334

If your in Panama City, Unkle Ernie?s is a must.

70335

My wife was disappointed that people were ignoring her car to get a look at the D. Lol.
Nice!

[Michael]

Finished up my VOD refresh tonight. Started right up and only need a minor mixture adjustment.
I was pleased with the condition of the valley, in fact it really didn't need to be done but I did replace a lot of parts such as the 3 way switch, all vacuum lines, added DPI's fuel injector clamps, throttle plate junction, and replaced the waterpump just for good measure. I was able to refinish and polish a lot of parts. Now all that's left is a full detail of the engine bay.
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Also did plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and a few other odds and returned and resheathed the wiring harness.

[Timeless]

and replaced the waterpump just for good measure.
What pump did you use? I had a new DMCMW pump fail in a year.

[Michael]

What pump did you use? I had a new DMCMW pump fail in a year.

I used a DeLorean Industries pump...pretty much all my stuff came from them but I did order most of my coolant hoses from DMCH and a few odds and ends like a thermostat.

My old pump was fine but it was about 11 or 12 years old. It was a DMCH unit but I believe they have a different supplier these days.

[Riley88]

Finished up my VOD refresh tonight. Started right up and only need a minor mixture adjustment.
I was pleased with the condition of the valley, in fact it really didn't need to be done but I did replace a lot of parts such as the 3 way switch, all vacuum lines, added DPI's fuel injector clamps, throttle plate junction, and replaced the waterpump just for good measure. I was able to refinish and polish a lot of parts. Now all that's left is a full detail of the engine bay.
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Also did plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and a few other odds and returned and resheathed the wiring harness.

Idk if anyone is having the issues, but I cannot see the photos!

[Michael]

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Pics re-uploaded
It runs very nice! Idles perfectly and now it doesn't load up when cold. Before I had to let it warm up a bit before driving otherwise it would hesitate with throttle.

[Mark D]

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Pics re-uploaded
It runs very nice! Idles perfectly and now it doesn't load up when cold. Before I had to let it warm up a bit before driving otherwise it would hesitate with throttle.

Looks awesome, I'm amazed at how well everything cleaned up. Did you vapor blast the intake manifold to get it that clean, or did you paint?

Nice work all around.

[Helirich]

Looks awesome, I'm amazed at how well everything cleaned up. Did you vapor blast the intake manifold to get it that clean, or did you paint?

Nice work all around.

Remind me to lock my engine cover if Michael?s car is around.



In other news, the picture I posted above a few posts with the Delorean in the rear window of the Vette I posted in another forum. I had the caption ?cool pic of the Delorean?. One of the guys there didn?t see the car in the glass and said ?it must really drive nice with that engine in it?. Lol.

I suppose one of the Josh?s would say ?yes, as a matter of fact, it does?.

[jackb]

I donated my Delorean for my old Temple to use in a photoshoot to promote their 80?s themed Purim carnival.


https://imgur.com/a/gkdAs3Q

I have work the day of the carnival, but another local owner is donating his that day.

[Michael]

Looks awesome, I'm amazed at how well everything cleaned up. Did you vapor blast the intake manifold to get it that clean, or did you paint?

Nice work all around.

Thanks!

Actually I used Aircraft paint stripper which worked very well to clean, then I painted with engine enamel.

[82DMC12]

Not many things to work on these days but I'm finally addressing one of the last cosmetic AND functional parts of the car that has never been serviced - the hood gasket! I was cleaning up the garage and found a new gasket I ordered over a year ago still in the bag and thought hmmm sounds fun.

As you can see the old gasket was adhered with some nasty yellow glue that really looks quite bad. And to make it worse, a previous owner at least 25 years ago used epoxy to try to keep the seal in plate. So, I'm scraping scraping scraping with a bit of heat gun and gasket scraper, lacquer thinner, and red scotch brite. No way to remove the epoxy unless I sand it down so that's what I'm doing which unfortunately means repainting the hood. Oh well - I'll probably use SEM Trim Black.

Pretty much done removing the old stuff already , just need to finish up the epoxy sanding and then rough up the old paint a bit with scotch brite. Mask off the carpets and edges, remove hardware, and wipe down with isopropyl, and time to paint.



70382 70383 70384

[AugustneverEnds]

Not many things to work on these days but I'm finally addressing one of the last cosmetic AND functional parts of the car that has never been serviced - the hood gasket! I was cleaning up the garage and found a new gasket I ordered over a year ago still in the bag and thought hmmm sounds fun.

As you can see the old gasket was adhered with some nasty yellow glue that really looks quite bad. And to make it worse, a previous owner at least 25 years ago used epoxy to try to keep the seal in plate. So, I'm scraping scraping scraping with a bit of heat gun and gasket scraper, lacquer thinner, and red scotch brite. No way to remove the epoxy unless I sand it down so that's what I'm doing which unfortunately means repainting the hood. Oh well - I'll probably use SEM Trim Black.

Pretty much done removing the old stuff already , just need to finish up the epoxy sanding and then rough up the old paint a bit with scotch brite. Mask off the carpets and edges, remove hardware, and wipe down with isopropyl, and time to paint.



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If you haven't removed all the epoxy yet, you might want to try brake fluid and heat. I've used that combination successfully before to take apart something some goofball epoxied together.

[Michael]

Not many things to work on these days but I'm finally addressing one of the last cosmetic AND functional parts of the car that has never been serviced - the hood gasket! I was cleaning up the garage and found a new gasket I ordered over a year ago still in the bag and thought hmmm sounds fun.

As you can see the old gasket was adhered with some nasty yellow glue that really looks quite bad. And to make it worse, a previous owner at least 25 years ago used epoxy to try to keep the seal in plate. So, I'm scraping scraping scraping with a bit of heat gun and gasket scraper, lacquer thinner, and red scotch brite. No way to remove the epoxy unless I sand it down so that's what I'm doing which unfortunately means repainting the hood. Oh well - I'll probably use SEM Trim Black.

Pretty much done removing the old stuff already , just need to finish up the epoxy sanding and then rough up the old paint a bit with scotch brite. Mask off the carpets and edges, remove hardware, and wipe down with isopropyl, and time to paint.



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Dude! Don't put that POS NOS gasket on yet! Use my trick

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It's a universal self adhesive weatherstrip found at Lowes. Not only does it work, it looks better and keeps the hood corners from sticking up above the fenders.

[Timeless]

Dude! Don't put that POS NOS gasket on yet! Use my trick

It's a universal self adhesive weatherstrip found at Lowes. Not only does it work, it looks better and keeps the hood corners from sticking up above the fenders.
I concur.

[82DMC12]

I concur.Damn , everyone is telling me to use that.... Must be something to it.... Got a link??

Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

[Timeless]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1QHA8/?coliid=I1Z5NC0CTFMGD&colid=209TTRLVTHPVN&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

[82DMC12]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1QHA8/?coliid=I1Z5NC0CTFMGD&colid=209TTRLVTHPVN&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

OK you guys got me convinced. Found it on the Lowes website. I will buy a pack and see what I think! I'm a picky mofo though!!!

Got the hood prepped and almost ready to paint this morning. I got the epoxy sanded down flat with 150 grit, went over the rest of the black fiberglass with 400 grit, vacuumed it, wiped down with lacquer thinner on towels, and started to mask off the edges and the carpeting. I'm cutting paper grocery bags to shape, a bit smaller than the carpet sections, and holding them in place with blue duct tape on the carpet (few small pieces). Then masking the carpet edges with blue painter tape. All the hardware is removed, too.

Note that the metal bracket that the hood striker is on is loose inside the hood. My hood is upside down on sawhorses right now so I don't know if the bracket can slide all the way down the fiberglass into the corners!! I took the striker and four screws out and suddenly realized I almost lost the bracket inside. I reattached it with just one screw for now.

I think I'll spray the edges of the "X", etc with the hood on the sawhorses, then set up against a wall with plastic sheet behind it to spray the flatter surfaces. Two coats and let dry at least 24 hours before putting any weatherstrip on.

[Timeless]

Good time to upgrade the hood intrusion brackets.
70388

[82DMC12]

Good time to upgrade the hood intrusion brackets.
70388

I was thinking about that. At least I can do that later with the hood already installed.

[Michael]

OK you guys got me convinced. Found it on the Lowes website. I will buy a pack and see what I think! I'm a picky mofo though!!!
It takes two packs. I put my seams near the bottom/front of the hood where I thought they were out of sight and not a place I considered to leak.

[82DMC12]

Yesterday I sprayed the underside of my hood with SEM Trim Black. Most of it looked great except for a couple areas that had a mottled appearance, apparently from remaining contamination despite sanding everything down and cleaning with lacquer thinner. I ended up wet sanding my new finish with 175, dry sand with 400, and this time used SEM High Build Primer (2 coats) before spraying 2 more coats of Trim Black.

Note to anyone else doing this - USE THE PRIMER!

The finish is much more uniform and appears factory-fresh.

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Just after spraying two coats of High Build Primer









70402





A few minutes after the second coat of Trim Black










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Close up of the finish after drying for about an hour

[Michael]

If it's not too late, follow up with a coat of clear, I prefer the matt but the semi gloss looks good too.

[cis6409]

Lovely stuff, looks really well

[82DMC12]

I was in the mood to hate myself and do some self-flagellation this weekend so rather than go the easy route with the self-adhesive gasket I spent two whole freaking days installing the DPI gasket with weatherstripping adhesive. I'll spare the gory details but I'll put them in my build thread

https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?19419-VIN-11596-Frame-Swap-a-rolling-frame-off-restoration

Anyway, the hood turned out SPECTACULAR! Certainly a labor of love. I spent quite some time last night working on hood and hinge alignment, and then ended up removing the hood release mounting bracket so I could file the holes down about 3 mm so I could drop the hood flush to the fenders. Best fitment I've ever had!

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Close up of the corner-work. It takes about two hours to turn a corner.









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Finished product











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Notched hood release bracket, done by hand with a file.

[Timeless]

Painted faded quarter panel vents with Wurth satin black trim paint.
7044270443

[SupercoolBill]

Painted faded quarter panel vents with Wurth satin black trim paint.
7044270443My left side vent has some minor damage to it. How would you recommend fixing it? Fiberglass resin? Bondo?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240322/d49f534a1720067dccea05de676386e2.jpg

Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk

[painterdave72]

Jb weld or some panel bond then just lightly sand it down and paint.. make sure to sand a bit first to rough it up for the stuff to stick...

[dmcman73]

My left side vent has some minor damage to it. How would you recommend fixing it? Fiberglass resin? Bondo?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240322/d49f534a1720067dccea05de676386e2.jpg

Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk

Do you have a power antenna installed or was there one there? This notches on your vent fins are usually hand filed into the vent to allow the power antenna to clear past the vents. If you have a power antenna and repair those notches or replace the vent, the antenna will not be able to fully extend and could either get damaged or damage the vent.

[SupercoolBill]

Do you have a power antenna installed or was there one there? This notches on your vent fins are usually hand filed into the vent to allow the power antenna to clear past the vents. If you have a power antenna and repair those notches or replace the vent, the antenna will not be able to fully extend and could either get damaged or damage the vent.I am not talking about the clearancing that was done. It's hard to from the picture but it looked damaged. Like they got sloppy with the clearancing or something else happened at some point.

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[Mark D]

Almost got it out the other day with the crazy warm weather we'd been having up here in WI.

But then we got 10" of snow, so it's still in sleep mode along with the E46 wagon.

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=70461&d=1711464973

[Stainless]

I replaced the door roof seals with the kit from DMCH that includes the correct sized pop rivets. It was a bit of a slow process with slowly drilling out the old pop rivets, cleaning up the brackets, and getting everything lined back up again, all while taking care of the torsion bar. I did this as a "while I'm in there" while I had the t-panel off to bolt down the roof box.

I opted to use original-sized pop rivets instead of going with screws. I'm happy to report that I avoided any damage to the stainless skin of the door, which was my main area of concern.

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[Nioreh]

Fixed two problems. One, I couldn't turn the heat on, wouldn't budge past maybe 1 o clock on the dial. Also, my radio wasn't working.

Went in and removed the whole center console to get to everything. Radio turned out to just be a fuse. It was only a 2.5A fuse, feels a bit weak, so replaced it with a 5A. Placed the cables so I can reach it through the footwell in the future. When having everything apart, the heat dial finally freed up. Feeling the wire when operating it, I think the screw on the other end might have got stuck on the underside of the dash/glovebox area somewhere. Anyway, I got it all back together and now everything there works. Went ahead and installed a new head unit with a built in phone holder and bluetooth. Put the microphone behind the steering wheel, so now I can actually talk on the phone in the car.

Still left to figure out:
My lambda system is still not operating properly. I will have to measure that the grounds are ok. Nobody seems to be able to explain what would cause my issue. No FV buzz or signal in diag plug, except when pressing the wot switch. Then it buzzes away. Tried a second ECU, same issue.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Still left to figure out:
My lambda system is still not operating properly. I will have to measure that the grounds are ok. Nobody seems to be able to explain what would cause my issue. No FV buzz or signal in diag plug, except when pressing the wot switch. Then it buzzes away. Tried a second ECU, same issue.

Since you get it to work with WOT switch, that tells us you have both FV power and ECU power. Try unplugging the O2 sensor and see if that will make it buzz (It should buzz with O2 unplugged or still warming up). If it does your O2 must be shorted. If not than check those two grounds again.

[jackb]

Today I removed the cruise control, and I was taking out the wiring, one of my wires was taking power from the rheostat (which is removed) wires which were also bundled together. I recognize it as work I did, but I don?t remember if the wires needed to be bundled because I removed the rheostat, or because of the LEDs, or what. So I google ?delorean rheostat wiring? and this (https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?9625-Rheostat-wiring) is the first result that pops up. A thread I started exactly 10 years ago today.

I also began the wiri g to install a new head unit.

[er1c]

Thanked the lord for the nice motorist who flagged me down.

I re-soldered the rear light stack last night and in my excitement of getting it working thought I would put the screws in it tomorrow.

Went for a drive for fuel and forgot, ended up with the light stack hanging on the wire.

No damage all is good but one heck of a bugger to replace if it had dropped.

[jackb]

Finished installing the new stereo head unit.

Single din.
Physical volume knob.
Carplay.
*Wireless* car play.
Backup camera
$51.

First picture is my old head unit from 2009. It looked great, I really liked it. But it died about 5 years ago so I?ve been driving in silence or with a Bluetooth speaker. An iphone mounted in it (the original carplay).
70530


New one looks great.
7052970531

[r00b]

Finished installing the new stereo head unit.

Single din.
Physical volume knob.
Carplay.
*Wireless* car play.
Backup camera
$51.

First picture is my old head unit from 2009. It looked great, I really liked it. But it died about 5 years ago so I?ve been driving in silence or with a Bluetooth speaker. An iphone mounted in it (the original carplay).
70530


New one looks great.
7052970531

What model is that new one?

[jackb]

What model is that new one?

CAMECHO Wireless Carplay 1 DIN... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNYX496W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[Nioreh]

First drive of the season today. Changed oil and filter. Nice drive in the sunny weather. Stalled randomly once at a red light and wouldn't start again for maybe 20 seconds. Then suddenly started and ran fine for the rest of the trip. Always something to keep you on your toes with this car :)

[82DMC12]

Last night I greased my ball joints for , yes, the first time since installing them two years ago. I replaced my old ball joints (originals as far as I knew) with Amsteer upper and lower ball joints when I did my frame-off. I didn't own a grease gun previously and my old joints had bad boots on them so I swore I would do better this time. I didn't want to buy a full size grease gun just for this so I bought this 3-oz cartridge gun and a 3-pack of Lucas Red & Tacky grease on Amazon (you can get the gun at Advance Auto too). I took the front wheels off and filled the joints until the boots swelled up a bit and leaked a little grease. Red grease came out so I don't think the joints had much in them from the factory. The lowers especially took a lot of grease. Glad I did this, and maybe not a moment too soon.

70585

[Nioreh]

Since you get it to work with WOT switch, that tells us you have both FV power and ECU power. Try unplugging the O2 sensor and see if that will make it buzz (It should buzz with O2 unplugged or still warming up). If it does your O2 must be shorted. If not than check those two grounds again.

I found it. Had no ground on pin 5 on ECU. Fixed it and now it's buzzing as it should. I guess the other ground makes the ECU half-work, since it was buzzing on WOT switch. Still not going into closed loop, but the O2 sensor is probably shot after years of running rich. I have a new one on hand. Hopefully I can get the old one out. I pray the previous owner used anti-seize.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I found it. Had no ground on pin 5 on ECU. Fixed it and now it's buzzing as it should. I guess the other ground makes the ECU half-work, since it was buzzing on WOT switch. Still not going into closed loop, but the O2 sensor is probably shot after years of running rich. I have a new one on hand. Hopefully I can get the old one out. I pray the previous owner used anti-seize.

Yes one ground is for ECU power and anther is for FV power. There is a third ground for the O2 shield but that is shared with ECU power ground.

[WHO1DMC]

Installed a set of strut mount covers from Dgo. Luckily there reproduction. I had to do a little trimming because the luggage rack hinge was a little too close.




Dave B.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240514/48be321b52bf2e274a71b8cbb8af68b7.jpg

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk

[Nioreh]

Today I changed the O2 sensor and spark plugs. If anyone wonders what 3000 miles of no lambda system and running rich looks like, I took some pictures 🤣
7059470595

[dmcman73]

Replaced my DeloreanEU reproduction crank pulley that decided to leave the chat after 400 miles. The weld bead was simply peeling away from the pulley like pulling away tape.

70612

70613

[Stainless]

Replaced my DeloreanEU reproduction crank pulley that decided to leave the chat after 400 miles. The weld bead was simply peeling away from the pulley like pulling away tape.

70612

70613

Yikes. Which replacement did you go with? I was able to clean up and reuse my original, thankfully.

[dmcman73]

Yikes. Which replacement did you go with? I was able to clean up and reuse my original, thankfully.

My original one was badly pitted inside the V grooves causing excessive belt dust, which is why I bought this DeloreEU one. Luckily, another owner had a spare original that was in great shape and I was able to get it from them. The only other option if you can't get an original one to replace it with is DPI's Billet aluminum one that's around $300.

[PotooBrigham]

Been attempting to replace my old can barely-see-5-feet-in-front-of-me lights for some Holley Retrobrights, but I think something must be up with one of the sets I bought because no matter which way I plug it in, it comes out dim for the low beams, then completely off for the high beams.
https://i.gyazo.com/23da747bc5168c7872869737cac620b0.png

[bueller]

Been attempting to replace my old can barely-see-5-feet-in-front-of-me lights for some Holley Retrobrights, but I think something must be up with one of the sets I bought because no matter which way I plug it in, it comes out dim for the low beams, then completely off for the high beams.
https://i.gyazo.com/23da747bc5168c7872869737cac620b0.png

Did you do the wiring mod that's necessary for H4 lights? Lots of threads on here and a video here - https://youtu.be/LnTgyeRJTME?si=ekEtfJfxrBChppmx

[PotooBrigham]

Did you do the wiring mod that's necessary for H4 lights? Lots of threads on here and a video here - https://youtu.be/LnTgyeRJTME?si=ekEtfJfxrBChppmx

I didn't repin the sockets, but I did get adapters to do the same thing. Unless I have to do both?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I didn't repin the sockets, but I did get adapters to do the same thing. Unless I have to do both?

Post a photo or the data sheet of you adapters.

[PotooBrigham]

Post a photo or the data sheet of you adapters.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KC13WVL

https://c.media-amazon.com/images/I/81s7BkQr--L._SL1500_.jpg

These are the ones I used for the outer Classic white ones.

https://www.holley.com/products/electrical/led_lighting/retrobright/parts/H820

https://images.holley.com/retrobrighth4_adapter.jpg

And these came with the Modern white ones.

It should be noted that either bulb works with either plug. As seen with the previous photo, only the Modern white bulbs turn on dim, and even then, they only turned on after modifying the wiring for quad lights. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgJACoJo1zU)

[Bitsyncmaster]

The stock harness low beam power is the blue/red wire. The stock harness high beam power is the blue/white wire. You can test each of your four lights on one connector to see if a light is at fault.

[PotooBrigham]

The stock harness low beam power is the blue/red wire. The stock harness high beam power is the blue/white wire. You can test each of your four lights on one connector to see if a light is at fault.

Good news is all my connections are where they oughtta be.

But
https://i.gyazo.com/1bf27d98c5633abd757e3312712d8396.png

I know Holley states their Classic White is a 3000 k bulb, while Modern White is 5700 k. Would that demand more power? They both say 18 V.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I know Holley states their Classic White is a 3000 k bulb, while Modern White is 5700 k. Would that demand more power? They both say 18 V.

The LED headlights use a switching regulator. So you get the same LED power no matter what voltage they are running. That regulator sets the power but I would think the 3000 K or 5700 K sets the same power.

[mike123]

The specs on the site indicate it should be the same power for the classic white and modern white.

I would test the bulbs on a bench power supply with 12 volts and see what they're drawing for amperage and what the brightness looks like. I use this one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09BFCF13Y) ($60) which is another expense but I find it pretty useful in general for car and project work. I think this type of test would pretty clearly indicate if you have a problem with the bulbs or the wiring though.

For what it's worth, I also installed the 4-light mod, but I ended up unplugging it. It was very challenging to aim all 4 headlights, it was far more bright than I needed, and I felt it was probably blinding other drivers. (That being said, I bought cheap LEDs and lenses on Amazon and I hope the Holley lenses create better beam patterns with a better cutoff). Plus the power usage of all 4 LEDs on low beams was about 25% greater than the power usage of the two outer incandescent bulbs that I bought the car with.

[Timeless]

(That being said, I bought cheap LEDs and lenses on Amazon and I hope the Holley lenses create better beam patterns with a better cutoff)
They do have a perfect beam pattern. I won't use any other light for my vintage vehicles. with sealed beams. Retrobright units are fantastic!

[Jonathan]

Replaced my steering column assembly to start the season (end the winter really). Noticed late last year that the wire cage had broken around the entire 360 degrees and was now two pieces. Guys mention you can weld them back together, which I may still do, but considering it has to all come out to work on it, I just bought new replacements instead.

Wasn't all that complicated... of course I had a lot of advice and emails back and forth with Dave S. along the way. Much appreciated as always. Lower universal joints and steering shaft from DeLoGO didn't fit unfortunately. Seemed to me like the female ends where the splines fit together weren't machined correctly. There is a flat spot about where the pinch bolt goes through and while this flat spot is fine and in place on the originals, it has to be machined down to the height of the troughs of those splines and not the peaks. This replacement was at the peaks height and wouldn't allow the male ends to go in. So I had to reuse my originals. Live and learn. Some replacement parts are great while others are not.

Got a few drives in and about 150 miles and haven't veered into the rhubarb yet, so I guess it went back together fine ;)

7064670645

[82DMC12]

Lower universal joints and steering shaft from DeLoGO didn't fit unfortunately.



What a surprise!

[glockworks21]

I just finished same job minus the steering shaft about 30 minutes ago. the cage has been partially split for awhile, it finally came completely apart.. Also big shout to Dave S for telling me to slot these with a dremel among other tips. took less than five minutes to get them out.. I probably would have tried drilling them if it was not for that!!!

[Jonathan]

I just finished same job minus the steering shaft about 30 minutes ago. the cage has been partially split for awhile, it finally came completely apart.. Also big shout to Dave S for telling me to slot these with a dremel among other tips. took less than five minutes to get them out.. I probably would have tried drilling them if it was not for that!!!

Yea, his knowledge and willingness to help is remarkable :)

That reminds me... those bolts for the steering column ignition switch... I had mine out years ago as I had to replace a defective unit. Mine have those same Dremel cuts in them. What is the best option for replacing those bolts (screws) with new? Maybe not the security ones though as it's already come out once and might need to again. I'd just as soon put regular screws back in there with Philips heads or similar. Anyone know the correct size?

[glockworks21]

Yea, his knowledge and willingness to help is remarkable :)

That reminds me... those bolts for the steering column ignition switch... I had mine out years ago as I had to replace a defective unit. Mine have those same Dremel cuts in them. What is the best option for replacing those bolts (screws) with new? Maybe not the security ones though as it's already come out once and might need to again. I'd just as soon put regular screws back in there with Philips heads or similar. Anyone know the correct size?




I took them to home depot and lowes- i cant remember the size but went through all their options and most had a larger head size that i know wouldnt have fit.(at least not flush inside like those do) I ended up cutting the slot deeper and more even once removed and just cleaned them up.. went in solid..

[DMCMW Dave]

I took them to home depot and lowes- i cant remember the size but went through all their options and most had a larger head size that i know wouldnt have fit.(at least not flush inside like those do) I ended up cutting the slot deeper and more even once removed and just cleaned them up.. went in solid..

I was most impressed with your improvisation getting the steering wheel off with minimal tools. You should post that one!

[glockworks21]

https://youtube.com/shorts/Z-kaOzFHOwA?si=werPhds0FMQtq0AS

HA.. Thanks. the steering wheel puller i ordered didnt have long enough bolts in the right thread pitch.. No box stores had those either... 1/4 x 28 fyi...
need maybe 4 in long bolts with universal puller.. Or get the one Andy just posted that fits down inside. I didnt have the patience to wait......

FWIW-
I got that car with a few of the connection points already split on that cage. noticed it when i replaced the non existent fire wall grommet. It gradually got worse.. Point being.. I never new what it felt like new.. The new column is a night a day difference in overall feel and sturdiness....

Thanks Again Dave!!

[AirmanPika]

heh...it's been a while. Finally installed the new cooling assembly (new radiator, fans/cowling, AC condenser). I skipped doing the whole AC for now as that would take too much time..,so car has no AC and I removed the AC belt to ensure the old system doesn't try to engage. Fixed a bunch of minor things I've noticed...a few bad relays, removed 9 gallons of 3-4 year old fuel, identified a few electrical issues. I think I have a vacuum issue from the mixture adjustment hole so ordered a new plug there. Hopefully the car will soon be able to be driven. Prime goal was to be able to transport it so that much has been accomplished.

[Timeless]

June project: roof box bolting w/surface internal coating, POR-15 coated door strut braces panel bonded & bolted, stainless rear finisher, powder coated windshield trims, SS screws, new inner/outer door seals.
70719

[AirmanPika]

That explains why the car wouldn't idle...

70720

[AirmanPika]

Yup...that was it. Idled the car for a solid hour with a test hose. Unfortunately the idle motor is unmounted to support the hose and the setup will work itself loose if I drive it. Hopefully DMCH gets me the new hose soon.

[CyberBill]

After 6 months of work, my EV DeLorean is back up and running! And this time, the wiring harness is properly routed through the interior and I am able to bring passengers along for a ride. :)

Updated my build thread with my latest video of rewiring the car, and I'll have a video of the "first drive"... again... in about a week, once I get some updated footage.

During the test drive I am getting a really nasty squeal from the rear left wheel any time I would take a left turn at more than about 5mph. I think its the wheel bearing, so I've ordered a replacement pair. The car only had a couple hundred miles on the previous set, so it may have been an installation issue on my end. I'll also check the brake caliper for rubbing and what not while I'm in there.

[dmcman73]

Yup...that was it. Idled the car for a solid hour with a test hose. Unfortunately the idle motor is unmounted to support the hose and the setup will work itself loose if I drive it. Hopefully DMCH gets me the new hose soon.

Just an FYI, I replaced those worm gear hose clamps on the brass tube with tension band clamps.

70721

This way, it prevents the clamps from being overtightened and risk cutting into the hose and causing a break/split in it.

[AirmanPika]

Just an FYI, I replaced those worm gear hose clamps on the brass tube with tension band clamps.

70721

This way, it prevents the clamps from being overtightened and risk cutting into the hose and causing a break/split in it.

lol unfortunately mine just broke right after the mount point. It was just that brittle. I hopefully will be getting the new hose tomorrow.

[glockworks21]

glad I went.. got a few good pics..

[Nioreh]

Today I swapped a leaking fuel hose at the accumulator. It was rubbing against a hard-line and had developed a microscopic hole that was weeping quite a bit. Far from anything hot, but still a bit scary, so wanted to fix it.

I also fixed my left side hand brake. I had fixed it before (friction material had fallen off one of the pads), but suddenly the cable unhooked at the handle end. Hard to reach, so I took the seat out. Not sure if needed, but it made it a lot easier to reach in and fiddle with the cable.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I pressure washed the wheels today. Looks a lot better but still needs something to get it really cleaned between the tight spokes. Solvent on a Q-tip works but that would take weeks of work. Mine have never been cleaned as long as I have owned the car so mine may be worse than most.

What do you all use?

[JBaker4981]

After literal years of brainstorming and putting the whole project off, I officially completed my 10" Touch Screen Vent-Swap Mod. The airflow from the center stack is actually improved sans the removal of the rubber plenum sleeves. While there was a lot of fabrication involved, this ended up being very painless in the end.

707307073170732

Live the dream dammit

[Timeless]

I pressure washed the wheels today. Looks a lot better but still needs something to get it really cleaned between the tight spokes. Solvent on a Q-tip works but that would take weeks of work. Mine have never been cleaned as long as I have owned the car so mine may be worse than most.

What do you all use?
SONAX wheel cleaner. Hands down the best.

[Bitsyncmaster]

SONAX wheel cleaner. Hands down the best.

Thanks. I will try it.

[WHO1DMC]

SONAX wheel cleaner. Hands down the best.I also like the SONAX and this lug nut brush from Autozone under 5 bucks. The bristles are on wires so they can be twisted. Works perfect and speeds up getting in between the fins/spokes what ever you want to call them.






David B.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240722/a12414e86fbff20d40097d27768bfbf8.jpg

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk

[AirmanPika]

Got the proper idle motor hose installed and for the first time in 3ish years got the car out and drove it around town.

[Rich]

First, search around this forum - there are a few threads on the wheel cleaning topic here.

This link (https://www.griotsgarage.com/heavy-duty-wheel-cleaner/) is to one of the larger ones.

Second, a few of the posts there point to using a foam paint brush (https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/painting-tools-and-supplies/paint-brushes/1767789) (with your fave wheel cleaner spray) between the spokes. This works well on mine.

Two extra tips:
- I like to do this job with the wheels off so I can set them nearly flat on a table in the shade outside.
- Try to clean the wheels more often so you only need to remove a thin film of dust, not a lot of gunk. This tip comes too late in your case. Another reason to get the wheels into a proper work location for a few hours of fun. With Q-Tips for the tough spots.


I pressure washed the wheels today. Looks a lot better but still needs something to get it really cleaned between the tight spokes. Solvent on a Q-tip works but that would take weeks of work. Mine have never been cleaned as long as I have owned the car so mine may be worse than most.

What do you all use?

[CarterCarburetor]

Whole bunch of stuff!

-Swapped out dome lights, HVAC lights, and door lights with LED's
-Installed a fused fan fail jumper
-Replaced broken plastic license plat clips with D-Go metal ones
-Replaced some interior screws with stainless ones
-Packed up jack into new Jack bag
-Installed a factory radio/HVAC support (old one was cut)
-Installed OEM Craig Radio with new faceplate
-Installed D-Go Airbox thumbscrews

[AirmanPika]

And drove it to work and back. Wondered how it would handle on the freeway. It worked out those flat spots from sitting by the time I was almost back. I was drenched when I got home thanks to no AC, but the new radiator and fans are keeping the temps really low which is great.

Now just waiting for the shipping company to pick it up for the long trek back east. :smile:

[Nioreh]

Got the car inspected again after hand brake and fuel leak fix. It's now street legal again for another 2 years! (Older than 30 years is only inspected every other year in Sweden)

[CyberBill]

After literal years of brainstorming and putting the whole project off, I officially completed my 10" Touch Screen Vent-Swap Mod. The airflow from the center stack is actually improved sans the removal of the rubber plenum sleeves. While there was a lot of fabrication involved, this ended up being very painless in the end.

707307073170732

Live the dream dammit

Oh, that looks really good!! I think my center console is going to end up looking very similar!

[mark w]

Rolled out my completed, refinished and reassembled chassis out of the garage today. Been over a year since I removed it from the body. This is for the Mongoose DeLorean, which is why the suspension is not stock, if you noticed. I had the frame painted satin black over the factory epoxy, which was first sandblasted, repaired, modified, and cleaned. Enjoy.

Mark707687076770769

[mhanch]

I had a coolant leak a few weeks ago and finally go in to see Toby and DSNW. This turned into a VOD refresh, Tune up, new hoses, and new radiator.

Runs so much better now.

[Timeless]

Nice looking frame Mark! You need some billet LCA action ;-) I love mine.
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[mark w]

Nice looking frame Mark! You need some billet LCA action ;-) I love mine.
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those will not fit my car. mine are narrowed by 2". the shock now mounts on top of it rather than inside it.