What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[81dmc]

Replaced the fuel accumulator. Hot start issue is gone :)

On a side note, I didn’t think it was that difficult at all. I mean, it wasn’t the easiest thing in the world, but it wasn’t nearly as tough as I expected. Took maybe 20 or so minutes remove and the same to install. Was the difficulty overhyped or am I that incredible of a mechanic?

It's not too difficult, but sometimes the fittings don't want to seal...

[Farrar]

Disconnected my old parcel shelf lighting (LED strip shining through the holes in the window trim). With the new dome light installed in the rear headliner, there's no need for it anymore.

Can't upload any photos here, so I'll try to make a link to one (https://i.imgur.com/D01Zo5A.jpg).

[mark w]

Rebuilding my Steering rack. Using Grady's DIY kit.

[nkemp]

... With the new dome light installed in the rear headliner

What did you use for a light? And .... looks good and bright

[jackb]

Good to hear... on the accumulator and that the forum is back up :)

As for overhyped difficulty... I'd love to hear how you replaced yours. What steps you followed or procedure you used or any tricks you used to make it easier? And what tools you used and whether on jack stands or ramps or whatever.

It was really straightforward. Remove the hard fitting, remove the bracket holding it in place, lower it and take off the hoses. Installation in reverse.

I had the car on 4 jackstands, but not very high. Just enough to get under. I measured it after reading your questions before downjacking it- the bottom of the body was 12” off the ground.

I had a small handheld flashlight and a magnetic mounted flashlight (the free LED types that Harbor Freight gives away). I stuck the magnetic one inside the frame, and used the handheld one either poking through a hole behind the accumulator or in my mouth.

As for tools, I actually had to use a crescent wrench on the hard fitting. My biggest stubby wrench is only 15mm and the line is 17mm. That was the time consuming part. I would get about 1/6 of a turn at a time. I used a 10mm socket on an extension to remove the bracket. It was the original accumulator, but had been removed at some point in the cars history (but not in the last 13 years- I’ve owned it for nine years, and the PO for four years before me and I know he did not touch it). I know it was removed at some point because one of the bolts for the bracket holding it in had a nut behind it, not a nutplate, so I had to maneuver a wrench onto the nut to hold it.

I also found an old 13mm wrench in the frame just forward of the access hole, lol.

I swapped over the forward fitting out of the vehicle and tightened it. I connected the forward hose while under the car before putting the accumulator in place.

To install it, it was impossible to hold the accumulator in place while turning the hard line fitting (only enough space for one hand at a time). What I ended up doing was holding the accumulator in place with one hand, sticking an open end wrench through a small hole in the frame aft of the accumulator and hooking it under the nipple on the back of the part to hold it up in place. While I held the wrench (and by extension, the accumulator) with one hand, I now had the access hole clear to put the bracket on with the other hand. Once the bracket was in position, I moved the wrench to hold it, and was able to thread in (but not tighten) the bolts with the other hand.
From that point, the accumulator was in position, and I was able to turn the hard fitting onto the threads. After maybe one thread though there was too much resistance to do it by hand, and it was back to the crescent wrench. After the hard fitting was tight, I hooked up the rear hose, double checked all clamps, and started it up for a leak check. Good to go.

Side note: I have been an aircraft mechanic for 19 years, so it’s all relative. I’ve done plenty of miserable difficult jobs with garbage access.

[DMC-81]

^ Yes, I find fuel accumulators are like window regulators. The first one can take 50 hours to do.... 49 for figuring out tools and techniques and 1 hour to swap the part.

:hihi2:

[Jonathan]

Thanks for the explanation, Jack. And measuring the space and all the details. That last comment helps with context too and so does what Dana said... past experience as an aircraft mechanic and shortening the time considerably the 2nd or 3rd time you do something!

My accumulator got replaced around 7 years ago and I paid a shop to do it for me. Too inexperienced at the time to do it myself and not enough of the right tools then either. I'd like to get back under there though to access the rubber hoses (the short ones right at the accumulator) and also replace the hardline going back to the filter with a hose I got for that spot. I should have already done this, years ago really, but haven't. It's not hurting anything the way it is, just one more thing on the to-do list and stuff in the parts box I'd like to clear out.

[CFI]

Unplugged the door lock module and removed the door light fuse.

[nkemp]

Currently replacing the previous set of binnacle LED's with a new set from DeLoreanGo. The old illumination set (the top 4 and the odometer LED) was so dim I couldn't see the instruments. The new ones are MUCH brighter.

The trouble/challenge is getting the LED's oriented right so that they light when needed (you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right but I beat hose odds:)
- Alternator and oil light if in the run position with the engine off.
- The door is easy if the connectors are attached ... open it.
- Actuate the turn signals, low and high beams to verify.
- For brake, pull the lever.
- Faking out the Lambda is pretty simple (jumper the plug) ... but do we really care?
- The low fuel light is still TBD if it is oriented right (looks like I need to open the fuel pump area and jumper the plug). I currently don't have a low fuel sensor but I want it to work should that ever change.

The most troubling so far is that seatbelt warning is not working and it is not the LED orientation (neither orientations work). I need some way to fake that one before I put back together (or I may swap with a working one and maintain orientation relative to ground). Then I can chase down later why the seatbelt warning is not working.

BTW ... I have a PWM dimmer (speed controller) that could be used to dim the dash illumination lights. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RYKR83Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The DeLorean rheostat is a 6mm hex shaft. Most modern day stuff is round, splined and about 5mm. So I need to resolve putting a smaller round peg in a hex hole before I can proceed.

[nkemp]

Currently replacing the previous set of binnacle LED's with a new set from DeLoreanGo. ...

The most troubling so far is that seatbelt warning is not working and it is not the LED orientation...

Seatbelt problem solved ... operator error ... the seatbelt warning timer had expired. Works fine. Binnacle reinstalled.

[Farrar]

What did you use for a light? And .... looks good and bright

I used these dome lights from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075447DNV).

[jackb]

600 miles round trip from Las Vegas to Huntington Beach to have my passenger door lock/latches adjusted.
The padded center armrest from the Utah Club made a huge difference. One of the best purchases I've made for the car.

The last 90 miles of the drive there took 75 minutes (from Victorville to Huntington Beach. On the way back (rush hour) that same 90 miles took 4 hours. I spent 90% of the time going back and forth between first and second gear. Still, There are a lot of worse ways to spend a day than driving a Delorean.

[eight8toy]

Cleaned and painted my idler pulley brackets, installed new bearings and reinstalled everything. Weird squealing noise from engine area seems to be gone!
Had some oil leakage from behind the plate so hopefully with new a O-ring that's gone too...

[AugustneverEnds]

58133
58134

Roll over!

[Lwanmtr]

Its a Brand New Car!!

[81dmc]

58133
58134

Roll over!

Congrats, but didn't you already post this on the 21st?

Looks like your original post disappeared....

[DMC5180]

Unplugged the door lock module and removed the door light fuse.

If you are trying too stop battery drain, I’d recommend you install one of these quick disconnects. This one is sold through DMCMW. But, I’m sure you can get one similar at your local Auto Parts store.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180929/3280ebd2742d9250b16a90a8fc2340bc.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DMCMW Dave]

If you are trying too stop battery drain, I’d recommend you install one of these quick disconnects. This one is sold through DMCMW. But, I’m sure you can get one similar at your local Auto Parts store.


Actually I've never been able to find the side terminal type in a local (Autozone type) store, that's why we started carrying them in inventory. They are certainly available online.

[AugustneverEnds]

Congrats, but didn't you already post this on the 21st?

Looks like your original post disappeared....

I thought I did but then I couldn't find it after the site went down. This was take 2

[AugustneverEnds]

Its a Brand New Car!!

And it still has the most persistently annoying rattle coming from the passenger door😡

Actually I love its individual idiosyncrasies, it's what makes each D special

[DMC5180]

Actually I've never been able to find the side terminal type in a local (Autozone type) store, that's why we started carrying them in inventory. They are certainly available online.

That’s actually kinda odd. But then again most older Collector type vehicles and Motorhomes probably do use Top post batteries. I guess we have GM to thank for pushing the Side attachment batteries.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[81dmc]

I thought I did but then I couldn't find it after the site went down. This was take 2

The site went down? Damn.

Haven't been on here that much as I've been simultaneously working the VR6 swap and a new to me w126 Mercedes diesel. I only knew about some new posts because of email notifications...

[Jonathan]

And it still has the most persistently annoying rattle coming from the passenger door😡

Actually I love its individual idiosyncrasies, it's what makes each D special

Any idea what that might be from? Or what part of the door?

If you've never opened up your doors with the inside trim panels removed (upper and lower), you can pretty much guarantee to have a little treasure hunt of stuff you'll find rattling around at the bottom. Nuts, bolts, bugs, tools, bits of broken glass, mice leftovers. Plenty of good stuff.

Could be one of the screws that holds one of the different brackets inside the door come loose a little, or a lot. Or a striker pin loose. Or the door seal strip on the bottom of the door is loose. Or you're just hearing things ;)

[jackb]

Installed Bitsyncmasters relays (RPM relay, fan relay, and fan fail unit) and front bank ground buss. Bypassed the cooling fan c/b since it’s no longer needed.

Replaced the blower motor c/b since it would intermittently cut off on fan speed 4.

Repaired a wire splitting at the canon plug on the harness right next to the RPM relay plug.

[CFI]

Replaced driver door strut. Surprisingly cheap and easy!58171

[AugustneverEnds]

Any idea what that might be from? Or what part of the door?

If you've never opened up your doors with the inside trim panels removed (upper and lower), you can pretty much guarantee to have a little treasure hunt of stuff you'll find rattling around at the bottom. Nuts, bolts, bugs, tools, bits of broken glass, mice leftovers. Plenty of good stuff.

Could be one of the screws that holds one of the different brackets inside the door come loose a little, or a lot. Or a striker pin loose. Or the door seal strip on the bottom of the door is loose. Or you're just hearing things ;)

I think it's the pin that sticks out of the trim card into a hole. My driver's side did it until I adjusted/fixed it. Of course it's small potatoes since I need to replace the torsion bar 😟

[hippieman9]

Installed DPI's Spec 1 Exhaust... Man that is an awesome system!!! Noticeable difference in performance right away. Sounds more aggressive too!

[jackb]

Installed all three kneepads.
They’ve been off my car for... god, like 8 years? The plastic around most of the studs was broken, so I used steel stick (putty version of JB Weld) and two-part epoxy to fab it all back together. I cut peices of threaded rod to replace some missing studs as well.

[peternikkiskinner]

Applied some good quality Leather Cream probably for the first time in 31 years. Will need to apply a few times for it to soak in. Have made a start on a deep clean of the interior which although very tidy could benefit from some attentive detailing. Made a start on finding a fix to the high beams not working. She is running beautifully at present.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Took my car out for a road test today after I did my clutch replacement.

Backed out of my driveway and could not get it out of reverse. Turned out my clutch needed to be bled again.

Then I could not get into first of second gear, funny reversed worked. I turned the adjustment cross gate cable in one turn and now the problem is solved.

So now I will do some longer drives each time until I build up confidence the car is reliable again.

[DMC-81]

Today, I changed my coolant tank overflow hose from a clear vinyl to a black version. I used 5/16” ID vacuum hose which almost felt like a silicone blend:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=58246&d=1539451499

As before, I bought a longer length (35", 3 feet was just enough), and secured the other end down low, out of sight, behind the rear wheel well. This will prevent a mess in the engine compartment should the coolant overflow:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=58247&d=1539451885

The clear version initially looked good, but developed condensation and turned a bit yellow with heat and age:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=58248&d=1539452511

Plus, the black version is a better match to the rest of the compartment.

[nullset]

- Washed it!
- Replaced the battery

Tomorrow I finish cleaning the interior again and go for a drive.

[CFI]

Removed spare tire. Cleaned trunk area. Removed door buzzer.

[Michael]

One of the first...no the very first thing I got for my car almost 10 years ago was a led light set from DMCH. I of course lost my dimmer function. Today I finally got around to installing Dave's dimmer relay for LED lights. It's nice to have that "high class" touch back into my car.

On a side note, DMCH's LED bulb kit has been a superstar. Almost 10 years and still running strong!

The install would have been easy if I did it back in my 30's. Tonight it did a number on my back. I hate working in the relay compartment.

[opethmike]

Planned out my post-engine swap 'to do' list for the car. Mostly some odds & ends to wrap up from turning it into a real car, and some cosmetic stuff.

[axh174]

I noticed the wheel starting to pull to one side when breaking not too long ago. Taking a look at the front calipers, I could tell one of the pistons one sticking. Also noticed the dust boots on the pistons were cracked and starting to tear. So this past weekend, I took the time to rebuild my front brake calipers. And boy did they need it...

I've flushed my brake fluid regularly since I became the owner of 2234, but that doesn't alleviate the <possible> lack of maintenance the brake system may received in prior ownership, and it certainly doesn't roll back the effects of time.

Rust and grime after piston removal:

58299

Pitted and rusted piston:

58300

Lots of elbow grease later, all cleaned up!

58301

New piston and seals!

58302

Repeat 3 more times, then reassemble and loaded with new pads/hardware!

58303

Better stopping power and more responsive now! :)

Also, I should probably take a closer look at those rear calipers now seeing what condition the front were in...

And maybe someday I'll spring for the sandblasting and plating services, but it wasn't in the budget at the moment.

[CriticalB]

I noticed the wheel starting to pull to one side when breaking not too long ago. Taking a look at the front calipers, I could tell one of the pistons one sticking. Also noticed the dust boots on the pistons were cracked and starting to tear. So this past weekend, I took the time to rebuild my front brake calipers. And boy did they need it...

I've flushed my brake fluid regularly since I became the owner of 2234, but that doesn't alleviate the <possible> lack of maintenance the brake system may received in prior ownership, and it certainly doesn't roll back the effects of time.


Better stopping power and more responsive now! :)

Also, I should probably take a closer look at those rear calipers now seeing what condition the front were in...

And maybe someday I'll spring for the sandblasting and plating services, but it wasn't in the budget at the moment.

I just finished the same job on my rear calipers and starting the front tomorrow. Mine looked exactly the same as yours. I noticed last week that stopping didn't feel guaranteed anymore so I was initially planning to bleed the brakes and change the pads. I started with the right rear wheel and once I saw the condition of the pistons I decided to rebuild all of them. The brake fluid was black and for all I know the brakes have never been serviced.

[Lwanmtr]

Cool...wanna do mine? Ok, not sure they need it, but....hehe

[Michael]

I ran across some side lighted LED strips I had set back for a model project that I have since took in another direction. I decided to see what they would look like ala "Christian Dietrich" and I liked the look, especially lighting the door release lever locations. If I grow tired of the look, it will be as easy to remove as the were to install. When I took the pics I had my instrument LED's still on green and pretty bright but they are fully adjustabe for color and brightness. The whole interior looks pretty "bold" but in reality the lighting is quite subtle. Adding Dave's LED dimmer relay really started this idea to make the interior more luxurious and high end.

5836958370

[81dmc]

I ran across some side lighted LED strips I had set back for a model project that I have since took in another direction. I decided to see what they would look like ala "Christian Dietrich" and I liked the look, especially lighting the door release lever locations. If I grow tired of the look, it will be as easy to remove as the were to install. When I took the pics I had my instrument LED's still on green and pretty bright but they are fully adjustabe for color and brightness. The whole interior looks pretty "bold" but in reality the lighting is quite subtle. Adding Dave's LED dimmer relay really started this idea to make the interior more luxurious and high end.

5836958370
Nice!

I installed 5mm green leds to light my door handles in my daily truck a year ago. Seeing how a delorean looks with light, I may do this to 831 when I have the time. As a plus, it would also help people that don't know where the door handle is...

[Michael]

Nice!

I installed 5mm green leds to light my door handles in my daily truck a year ago. Seeing how a delorean looks with light, I may do this to 831 when I have the time. As a plus, it would also help people that don't know where the door handle is...

That was Christian's logic and I thought it was an astute observation. Gives the interior a classy touch too. The ambients may or may not stay, but the door latch location lights will be permanant.

[Col Bennett]

Today I started my own YouTube channel to document my DeLorean ownership as I continue to refine my car and add to my collection.

The first post includes some lovely new items to my collection.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggud54JH1FU

[Michael]

Today I started my own YouTube channel to document my DeLorean ownership as I continue to refine my car and add to my collection.

The first post includes some lovely new items to my collection.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggud54JH1FU

Carpeted garage...now that's impressive!

[Col Bennett]

Carpeted garage...now that's impressive!

Don’t tell me you leave your car tires sitting on concrete or asphalt? :jawdrop: :wink:

Haha. It’s an $80 16ft x 16ft square piece of thin grey carpet from Home Depot. It’s nothing fancy but it gives the car a great museum-like feel in the garage and is great to sit and/or lie on when working on minor things as well as detailing.

Only the best for my D.

[peternikkiskinner]

Just received two rubber strips from DMC CA for the lower doors as mine were old and brittle. Not too much of a problem to install apart from cutting out the holes for the drainage. They look good but it does take time to clean off the old glue and remove the rivets. A hacksaw took care of the later.

[eight8toy]

Picked up the Kenwood bluetooth amp mentioned in another thread and wired it into the stock speaker wires. Hidden behind the glove box, love having stock radio but with added bluetooth functionality. Much better than my old cassette tape bluetooth combo :)

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=58406&d=1540436912

[opethmike]

Finally tracked down a short that was preventing my dash tachometer from working with the MSD ignition I'm running on my LS car. Real nice to have the dash tach working and being able to get rid of the crappy looking aftermarket tach that had been sitting on my center console.

[jackb]

Back in early 2012 I installed a momo steering wheel I got on ebay. I intended on putting a wheel center cap in the center since the horn button wouldn’t be functional. The hole was a bit too big, so it’s remained empty since then and I’ve been staring at the nut securing the adapter for the last 6 years.
I picked up a retaining ring and horn button on ebay last week, and it arrived yesterday.
Looks much better now.

[peternikkiskinner]

Just installed the LED Door Bulbs, easy job and they look great. Have put the fuse back in (this was taken out when VIN 4273 was shipped from LA to Auckland, N.Z.) and I am pleased to see I have a working glove box, hood and interior light. No engine bay light but it looks to be in a pretty useless location so I think I will leave this for now. Not sure where the switch is for it?

[DMC-Ron]

58440

Ron

[Jonathan]

No engine bay light but it looks to be in a pretty useless location so I think I will leave this for now. Not sure where the switch is for it?

Adding to what Ron said, there is also a small actuator "tab" that clips to the underside of the lower engine cover. It is there to push down on the plunger of that switch.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10336-Assorted-helpful-technical-photos&p=205863&viewfull=1#post205863

[kbrown84]

Only the best for my D.

I have a lot of respect for people who keep their cars neat and tidy...but I just love thrashing mine! Doughnuts in gravel parking lots, and sliding around in the snow...it never gets washed and leaks so much oil i cant see what color the engine is supposed to be...I love it! lol

58472584735847458475

[Lwanmtr]

I have a lot of respect for people who keep their cars neat and tidy...but I just love thrashing mine! Doughnuts in gravel parking lots, and sliding around in the snow...it never gets washed and leaks so much oil i cant see what color the engine is supposed to be...I love it! lol

Cars were made to drive...lol

[Jonathan]

I took the car out tonight, seemed like a good night to put on the jean jacket and life preserver and go for a spin.

It was cold out, not freezing, but likely in the low 40s (F). The car did well, but my driver's window was noticeably slow going up. Seemed fine going down, but up was to a crawl almost.

Makes me wonder if the cold could have some impact on window operation? Anything come to mind in the window system that could be getting affected by cold temperatures? The window motors are both original. Switches are new though. It doesn't seem to be off it's track or anything like that. And it goes down nice and level and closes up snug across the whole thing.

[DMC-Ron]

I took the car out tonight, seemed like a good night to put on the jean jacket and life preserver and go for a spin.

It was cold out, not freezing, but likely in the low 40s (F). The car did well, but my driver's window was noticeably slow going up. Seemed fine going down, but up was to a crawl almost.

Makes me wonder if the cold could have some impact on window operation? Anything come to mind in the window system that could be getting affected by cold temperatures? The window motors are both original. Switches are new though. It doesn't seem to be off it's track or anything like that. And it goes down nice and level and closes up snug across the whole thing.

Try some silicone spray in the window track.
Ron

[eight8toy]

Replaced my almost non-existent door roof seals. Ended up using a dremel to cut off the heads of the rivets and then after pulling the metal panel, used some vice grips to crush and gently pull the remaining rivets out of the door.

Used some machine screws instead of rivets when installing the new seals... you're welcome whoever buys my car years from now and is faced with replacing them again :cool1:

[jackb]

I wired in my garage door opener to a button (like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/282715355666?_sp=p2488211.m41214.l9765&_trkparms=itemid%3A282715355666) that I placed in a dummy switch where my rear window defroster switch used to be (removed the real defroster switch because I have never used it).

[WHO1DMC]

5849258491

Built my own illuminated door sills.

Dave B.

[Lwanmtr]

neat

[DMC5180]

5849258491

Built my own illuminated door sills.

Dave B.

Nice job, Dave. [emoji106]




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

I took mine down to DMCMW today for Some long time coming over the winter TLC. I think it was the first time in 15 years that I actually used the heater on purpose [emoji12]

This coming spring will be my Silver Anniversary of ownership. It’s hard to believe its been that long already.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Michael]

5849258491

Built my own illuminated door sills.

Dave B.

Nice work! I was going to get a set from DMCMW back when they offered them but I was unwilling to send back my perfect "cores"

[WHO1DMC]

Nice work! I was going to get a set from DMCMW back when they offered them but I was unwilling to send back my perfect "cores"
Thanks
I bought separate cores ebay less than 50 bucks for the set so I didn't have to use my originals.

[Hill Valley PD]

Installed DMC Exterior LED Kits with new tail light boards and flasher relay. My finicky rear turn signal now works properly. I did the DMC Interior LED Kit back in August as well. Now I have to decide if I want to eventually do the headlights, climate control panel, and dash lights. Very happy so far with the difference the LEDs make. I also changed out all the fuses today since I don't know when they were last done, but the Relay Update Kit was done a few years ago already, and they all still look good.

[CFI]

Picked up car from repair shop after having all fluids changed and a new starter installed. Then I replaced the slightly weak passenger door strut and replaced all exterior lights with DMCH LED kit.

[Michael]

Painted my headlight trim rings.

58562
58563

[Lwanmtr]

The black looks nice and slightly modernizes it.

[eight8toy]

Pick an easy job today and pulled off that black wiring bracket and painted it. Was tired of seeing the rusted spots from flaked off old paint.

Seems the relay was painted also so I tried to remove it and leave it polished. Not sure if it's actually supposed to be coated with high temp paint?

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=58580&d=1541985961

[peternikkiskinner]

Busy morning, spent 6.5 hours scraping off some small areas of epoxy cracking. Nothing too much to worry about as underneath it was just a little rust staining and no scab rust or holes. A big relief. Painted with KBS. left to dry and have sprayed with Krylon Smoke Grey. Frame looking very tidy and clean. Also went over most of the frame with some turps to clean it up and make sure no areas were missed.

[Rich]

Performed my usual 6 month rear light safety check. I set up my phone to video the sequence - turn signals, brakes, taillights, reverse. It always gives me some peace of mind - or a simple repair project to look forward to.

Yes, I know I can do all the checks except the brake lamps by just walking around.

[Farrar]

Yes, I know I can do all the checks except the brake lamps by just walking around.

You can check the brake lamps by bypassing the brake light switch with a jumper.

I don't know any way of checking the reverse lamps, though, without a mirror, camera, or helper.

[eight8toy]

You can check the brake lamps by bypassing the brake light switch with a jumper.

I don't know any way of checking the reverse lamps, though, without a mirror, camera, or helper.

I do this when parked in my garage or backed up to a wall / large store front window. It's pretty easy to see if both reverse lights are on through the rear window as they reflect off the garage door. Or brake lights and turn signals too :)

[Rich]

I do this when parked in my garage or backed up to a wall / large store front window. It's pretty easy to see if both reverse lights are on through the rear window as they reflect off the garage door. Or brake lights and turn signals too :)

Yes, that's a nice way to go. Thanks. Jumpers or helpers - or other D drivers following the car at an event - are all good solutions.

The story is shared mainly to remind owners to pay regular attention to this relatively simple but important bit of preventive maintenance.

[jackb]

Passed the 79,000 mile mark while out for a drive today

[Jonathan]

Yes, that's a nice way to go. Thanks. Jumpers or helpers - or other D drivers following the car at an event - are all good solutions.

The story is shared mainly to remind owners to pay regular attention to this relatively simple but important bit of preventive maintenance.

Reminded me of something I added to my annual inspection / checks list: Testing to see if the back-up cable I installed for the trunk release is still working.

I put this in years ago after having a frayed end to my original cable. Replaced the main cable and added a back-up one. Though it was years since I ever tried it again to make sure it was still working and something hadn't gotten loose or disconnected on it. Easy thing to do and much better to find out it needs attention at home in the garage than out somewhere when you need it in a panic after realizing your main cable snapped again.

[CFI]

Reminded me of something I added to my annual inspection / checks list: Testing to see if the back-up cable I installed for the trunk release is still working.


I recently replaced the thin rope the PO used as a backup with some 18 gauge wire. Works beautifully, although it’s not that critical on my vehicle as there’s nothing in my trunk and I have a gas flap.

[Rich]

Reminded me of something I added to my annual inspection / checks list: Testing to see if the back-up cable I installed for the trunk release is still working.

I put this in years ago after having a frayed end to my original cable. Replaced the main cable and added a back-up one. Though it was years since I ever tried it again to make sure it was still working and something hadn't gotten loose or disconnected on it. Easy thing to do and much better to find out it needs attention at home in the garage than out somewhere when you need it in a panic after realizing your main cable snapped again.

Nice idea. I will do that on my backup release wire, too.

Along with this regular check can be an inspection of both ends of the trunk release cable. See if any wires are frayed. Replace cable as needed.

[Roberto]

Fitted new oil switch sensor today.
Robert
Vin #391558633

[Hill Valley PD]

58664586655866658667

Installed DeLoreanGo's reproduction sun visors to replace my upholstered all grey ones, which were incorrect. Took a while to get them to line up right and get in but looks much better than the old ones.

[Jonathan]

58664586655866658667

Installed DeLoreanGo's reproduction sun visors to replace my upholstered all grey ones, which were incorrect. Took a while to get them to line up right and get in but looks much better than the old ones.

Looks good. I've been considering replacing my sunvisors too. My car didn't come with any (d'oh!) but a friend gave me his old pair years ago. They're in decent shape, but not great and one of those things I've had on the to-do list way down towards the bottom.

I'm wondering which colour to get though. Are the ones you got the dark or the light pair? I technically have a black interior car but much of my carpeting seems to be more of a light gray and I kinda like it like that. Was thinking about going with the light gray sunvisors but didn't really know what they might end up looking like installed.

[Lwanmtr]

Looks nice. Yeah, getting them in is a pain..luckily my seats are currently out of the car, so it made it easier to get into a good enough position to install.

[nkemp]

Cussed at it when I realized that there is a antifreeze puddle under the engine and likely coming from the water pump area ... again. :mad2: :angry:

[Lwanmtr]

ohh I hate finding leaks....

shortly after i had the engine running, i started seeing antifreeze spewing..panicked a lil until I discovered it was just the hoses at the top needed tightening...yaay for
the waking up period after a 15 year nap....which Im sure is why the transmission lines started leaking too.

[DMC5180]

Cussed at it when I realized that there is a antifreeze puddle under the engine and likely coming from the water pump area ... again. :mad2: :angry:

Unless, you visually verified a trail coming from the Weep hole under shaft, I’ll bet you just need to retighten the clamps on the coupler houses on the back of the WP housing. Time the pressurize the system and look for drips.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nkemp]

Unless, you visually verified a trail ...

No verification yet. Just a quick check topside to get an idea where is sorta comes from. Tomorrow it goes on the dollies and slides into the storage spot so that the snow blower can be pointing out. I can work on it on the dollies.

I was working something else when I noticed it. There are days when I start out going to do "A", notice "B" needs taking care of but in the process of fixing "B" I run into "C" and "D" and "E" ... and "ZZZ". Yupp all the way to "ZZZ ... going to bed to catch some ZZZ's. Tomorrow I can start with "A". And then someone asks "what did you do today?"

[Hill Valley PD]

Looks good. I've been considering replacing my sunvisors too. My car didn't come with any (d'oh!) but a friend gave me his old pair years ago. They're in decent shape, but not great and one of those things I've had on the to-do list way down towards the bottom.

I'm wondering which colour to get though. Are the ones you got the dark or the light pair? I technically have a black interior car but much of my carpeting seems to be more of a light gray and I kinda like it like that. Was thinking about going with the light gray sunvisors but didn't really know what they might end up looking like installed.

http://www.deloreanmarquecertification.com/DeLorean%20Millennium%20Concours%20Handbook.pdf

Always a good reference. See above. From VIN 1792 and up, the lighter grey ones with vinyl side visible when stowed are correct. Since your car was built in Sept '81, you need the light grey ones. These are the ones I just installed on VIN 2282 (July 81), which is also a black interior car. It is a nice contract since the light grey is very close to the head liner color, and the vinyl side is more like the seats, door panels, and dash. I got them here:

https://www.deloreango.com/us/sunvisor-set-light-grey-pair.html

Also, you technically should have the Starting Instructions Label affixed to the driver's side sun visor. I put that on as well after I took the pictures. Repos are available from above or I believe DMC Houston.

[Hill Valley PD]

Changed oil with 7 quarts of Castrol GTX 20W50 and installed new oil drain plug/gasket as well as DMC filter. I still cannot get over where the drain plug is in relation to the frame and the mess it creates. As John DeLorean would say, "Asinine!" If you've never seen the Pennebaker DeLorean Documentary, watch it. Also, filled tires up higher than normal, added fuel stabilizer, and detailed the car in and out. Took it for a nice spin to run new fluids through it before Winter comes. Any suggestions for the battery? I plan to start and move the car around about once a month. I'd say it won't be driven on the roadways for about 3-4 months.

[nkemp]

... Any suggestions for the battery?

Disconnect it from the car between starts. Use a battery tender to keep the battery charged and to avoid sulfating ... I use the black & Decker one from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BM3B-Automatic-Maintainer/dp/B0051D3MP6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1543016852&sr=8-5&keywords=BLACK%2BDECKER+BM3B). It was a lot less (Half?) of what is shown when I bought it.

[Rich]

Disconnect it from the car between starts. Use a battery tender to keep the battery charged and to avoid sulfating ... I use the black & Decker one from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BM3B-Automatic-Maintainer/dp/B0051D3MP6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1543016852&sr=8-5&keywords=BLACK%2BDECKER+BM3B). It was a lot less (Half?) of what is shown when I bought it.

Agreeing with this plan and adding that if you don't care to disconnect the battery for storage then just unplug the door lock module and leave the battery connected. The original door lock module is by far the largest parasitic power draw in a parked D.

In this case you can hook the batt. tender directly to the jump start post and any ground in the engine bay.

Be sure NOT to use a regular trickle charger or battery charger for this purpose. It'll kill a battery via sulfating as noted in the prev. post.

[Jonathan]

http://www.deloreanmarquecertification.com/DeLorean%20Millennium%20Concours%20Handbook.pdf

Always a good reference. See above. From VIN 1792 and up, the lighter grey ones with vinyl side visible when stowed are correct. Since your car was built in Sept '81, you need the light grey ones. These are the ones I just installed on VIN 2282 (July 81), which is also a black interior car. It is a nice contract since the light grey is very close to the head liner color, and the vinyl side is more like the seats, door panels, and dash. I got them here:

https://www.deloreango.com/us/sunvisor-set-light-grey-pair.html

Also, you technically should have the Starting Instructions Label affixed to the driver's side sun visor. I put that on as well after I took the pictures. Repos are available from above or I believe DMC Houston.

Thanks for the reminder. I'd forgotten this about the sunvisors being VIN based and not specific to the colour of the interior.

... and for winter storage, most years I remove my battery and put it in the basement and put a charger on it once per month. I don't leave the charger on it all the time and I don't normally start the car periodically either. It works for me but others do different variations. I think any of those ideas are fine for 3-4 months. The difficulty would likely come if that turned into years instead of months that you ended up storing it. Last year was a weird one as I drove it in November and also a couple times in February and March before the season really even started. Maybe that's the new norm though with the way the climate is changing.

[vwdmc16]

Reinstalled my DmcH exhaust. I was missing that growl, however it seems louder than the last time it was on, and not as fierce sounding. Still better than stock.

[CFI]

Replaced all of my fuses. Some of them had some pretty heavy oxidation.

[Michael]

Quite possibly the last warm day of the season so I took her out on a nice 70-80 mile Sunday drive. I checked the odometer mileage, looks like I clocked in around 6-700 miles this year.
58686 58687

[Spittybug]

Replaced all of my fuses. Some of them had some pretty heavy oxidation.

If your fuse blades have oxidation, so too do the receptacles.... With the battery disconnected slip some sandpaper down into the slots and clean them up. You may be able to get a narrow dremmel tool in there too.

[CFI]

If your fuse blades have oxidation, so too do the receptacles.... With the battery disconnected slip some sandpaper down into the slots and clean them up. You may be able to get a narrow dremmel tool in there too.

I’ll do that. Thanks.

[CFI]

Quite possibly the last warm day of the season so I took her out on a nice 70-80 mile Sunday drive. I checked the odometer mileage, looks like I clocked in around 6-700 miles this year.
58686 58687

Great pictures.

[Jonathan]

Quite possibly the last warm day of the season so I took her out on a nice 70-80 mile Sunday drive. I checked the odometer mileage, looks like I clocked in around 6-700 miles this year.
58686 58687

Great pictures is right. Cool.

Is that the dam that they filmed in the Fugitive? That's apparently called Cheoah Dam and is not far from Tennessee from the looks of things on the map. I know the smashed up train from that movie is still sitting about where it ended up after filming and that is about an hour outside of Atlanta. These kinds of backdrops can be just about anywhere a movie maker wants them to be.

[Michael]

Well thanks! I didn't consider them good, just unedited snaps with my phone. The DeLorean carries the show when lighting is dull. The dam is Boone Dam, close to where I live.

[Farrar]

Lubricated the door hinges. Now the doors open all the way without having to be pushed the last inch or so.

[Stainless]

Lubricated the door hinges. Now the doors open all the way without having to be pushed the last inch or so.

What is your lube of choice?

[Farrar]

What is your lube of choice?

I use a silicone spray made by DuPont, but I am sure there are other brands available.

[Jonathan]

I did the last few things on my winter storage checklist for putting the car away. That sort of weather is here to stay now and the car won't come out again until the Spring.

Looks like I put just over 2,800 miles on the car this season with a fuel economy of about 23 MPG. The highlight this year in terms of work or projects was getting all my stainless made new again with some dent repair and a full regrain. That's the most miles I have ever put on the car in a single season since getting it in 2007.

I bumped into the mechanic the other day that used do much of the work on my car when I first got it. I mentioned to him that same thing about putting the most miles on the car since I got it and he asked me what changed? I wasn't really sure how to answer, but I told him it wasn't so much the car that changed or improved, it was more about me changing and how I chose to enjoy the car this year.

I made a conscious effort to try and be less affected by those around me when I drive it. Part of that was just driving it when and where I wanted to and not as much in situations where I felt obligated to be there. I still went to a lot of shows and cruise nights, but more so on my own terms. I finally figured out that I don't owe anyone anything in terms of reacting or embracing their interest or attention. And I needed to relearn how to focus and tune out distractions. Plus, I went on many of these early evening drives that were just a little 35+ mile lap to nowhere inparticular. Out for an hour or so and back to where you started. The routine of those evening laps was a lot of fun for me.

[CFI]

I went on many of these early evening drives that were just a little 35+ mile lap to nowhere inparticular. Out for an hour or so and back to where you started. The routine of those evening laps was a lot of fun for me.

I too have a 1 hour loop that I enjoy driving on a regular basis. In fact, in the few months that I’ve owned mine I’ve completely changed my mind on when I will drive the car. I figured at first it would only be on special occasions or car shows, etc. Now I find myself saying “what the hell” and taking it to the bank, the barber shop, local restaurants, etc. I’m on track to put 5,000 miles on it in my first year of ownership.

[Farrar]

Drove 60 miles, mostly highway. In south Florida, it's always driving season. B)

[Michael]

I too have a 1 hour loop that I enjoy driving on a regular basis. In fact, in the few months that I’ve owned mine I’ve completely changed my mind on when I will drive the car. I figured at first it would only be on special occasions or car shows, etc. Now I find myself saying “what the hell” and taking it to the bank, the barber shop, local restaurants, etc. I’m on track to put 5,000 miles on it in my first year of ownership.

The "loop" should be in every owner's book. After work I might take 5609 out for just a short drive close to home to enjoy the car and the drive, no schedule, no expectations from anyone. I have always enjoyed driving just for driving's sake. I live in a part of the country that has a plethora of nice winding roads to choose from and several established loops, but every so often I find myself exploring new roads and seeing where they lead and most times they lead me to an interesting forgotton "mom and pop" store or resturant, and yes, the occasional chatty Cathy (which I enjoy). The DeLorean feeds my spirit on many levels. For me It melds gt fun with a vintage flair mixed with social fellowship and my own desire to explore the world in my dream car. Car shows and cruise in's maybe 2 or 3 times a year, tops. I would rather have a nice day, my DeLorean, and no commitments except to flip a coin to determine left or right when I reach the end of my driveway.

[CFI]

The "loop" should be in every owner's book. After work I might take 5609 out for just a short drive close to home to enjoy the car and the drive, no schedule, no expectations from anyone. I have always enjoyed driving just for driving's sake. I live in a part of the country that has a plethora of nice winding roads to choose from and several established loops, but every so often I find myself exploring new roads and seeing where they lead and most times they lead me to an interesting forgotton "mom and pop" store or resturant, and yes, the occasional chatty Cathy (which I enjoy). The DeLorean feeds my spirit on many levels. For me It melds gt fun with a vintage flair mixed with social fellowship and my own desire to explore the world in my dream car. Car shows and cruise in's maybe 2 or 3 times a year, tops. I would rather have a nice day, my DeLorean, and no commitments except to flip a coin to determine left or right when I reach the end of my driveway.

Well said, Michael.

[Riley88]

The "loop" should be in every owner's book. After work I might take 5609 out for just a short drive close to home to enjoy the car and the drive, no schedule, no expectations from anyone. I have always enjoyed driving just for driving's sake. I live in a part of the country that has a plethora of nice winding roads to choose from and several established loops, but every so often I find myself exploring new roads and seeing where they lead and most times they lead me to an interesting forgotton "mom and pop" store or resturant, and yes, the occasional chatty Cathy (which I enjoy). The DeLorean feeds my spirit on many levels. For me It melds gt fun with a vintage flair mixed with social fellowship and my own desire to explore the world in my dream car. Car shows and cruise in's maybe 2 or 3 times a year, tops. I would rather have a nice day, my DeLorean, and no commitments except to flip a coin to determine left or right when I reach the end of my driveway.

Im currently shipping my car and awaiting her arrival after a long seperation. Im looking for my loop now but this is what my car has always meant to me. You put it very elegantly.

[Michael]

Went out and looked at Christmas lights tonight. The car got more attention than the lights at a lot of the places we stopped at.

58917

[L3V3L1]

Installed a new clutch matter cylinder from deloreango, and bleed the system. Not a huge job but, I am pretty proud of myself. Haha

[TimD]

Continued to work on refitting the cylinder heads. I noticed in the manual tonight that page C:01:01 para 2 states "The right and left side of the engine is determined as viewed standing at the rear of the vehicle looking into the engine compartment". But once you actually get into the manual, e.g. on page C:05:07, the RH is described to have the dipstick and distributor... Anyone ever notice this? Is there any consistency in the manual or does it flip flop? Or am I reading it wrong?

[jackb]

No maintenance, but I drove it in to work to meet with a new owner I work around and check out his and show him some things on mine.
He just bought it from DMCMW recently. His is Parzival, mine is Mcfly.

[Riley88]

finished installing DPI joshes lower Control Arm supports and.....now I need an alignment, but I ended up having to take half my front end off due to being a dum dum so its my fault not the supports. Amazing product by the way. Once i find time to do this steering shaft from borgeson installed, im pumped up to drive. As soon as California mails me my title~~

[CriticalB]

Installed a stock steering wheel. My car had an aftermarket racing wheel when I bought it and I switched it to one of the knock off Momo wheels shortly after. The smaller wheel really made it feel like I was driving a go-kart and it was always annoying that it blocked my view of most of the gauges. The stock wheel makes a HUGE difference - makes the lack of power steering far less noticeable.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I started putting my mixture unit back in and found the hose from the idle motor to the pipe of agony is pretty much cut off. DMCH has no stock.
https://store.delorean.com/p-6740-hose-motor-pipe.aspx

Looks like DPI and DeLoreango have them (looks like a new part). This is such a sharp bend I don't think a non-molded hose would work. Now I have to look what else I may need since I hate to pay $15 shipping for a $13 hose.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I finished hooking up all the fuel lines and every thing bolted down except the idle motor and that torn hose.....:mecry: OH NO...the distributor rotor is sitting on the pontoon.

I was able to pull the mixture unit enough just removing the two fuel return lines and the few bolts holding it down to install the rotor.

[Chris 16409]

Dave maybe you can try these. Just cut it to length. These are stocked in store.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-help--4422/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/crankcase-breather-hose-14015/df8b1723839a/dorman-help-crankcase-vent-hose/46002/4528211

Or

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-help--4422/engine-sensors---emissions-25132/pcv-25064/pcv-valve-tubing-13524/02971201515a/dorman-help-pcv-valve-tubing/46061/4528258/1999/chevrolet/tahoe?q=46061&pos=0

Or

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-help--4422/engine-sensors---emissions-25132/pcv-25064/pcv-valve-tubing-13524/02971201515a/dorman-help-pcv-valve-tubing/46062/4528259/1999/chevrolet/tahoe?q=46062&pos=1

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave maybe you can try these. Just cut it to length. These are stocked in store.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-help--4422/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/crankcase-breather-hose-14015/df8b1723839a/dorman-help-crankcase-vent-hose/46002/4528211

Or

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-help--4422/engine-sensors---emissions-25132/pcv-25064/pcv-valve-tubing-13524/02971201515a/dorman-help-pcv-valve-tubing/46061/4528258/1999/chevrolet/tahoe?q=46061&pos=0

Or

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-help--4422/engine-sensors---emissions-25132/pcv-25064/pcv-valve-tubing-13524/02971201515a/dorman-help-pcv-valve-tubing/46062/4528259/1999/chevrolet/tahoe?q=46062&pos=1

Thanks. I may try taking the hose to an automotive parts store and just ask them what they have. The idle motor and pipe are 3/4" ID hose.

[Jonathan]

Well, I didn't take it for a drive, that's for sure!! Holy cow is it cold here!

59061

[peternikkiskinner]

Just replaced the Engine Bay bulb with an LED and found the light switch glue had parted. Reglued and now a working light. Finally finished the Outer Door Rubber Seals install. Pain in the butt job! Trying to get anything to stick to the fiberglass.... All manner of items were used to secure the seals in place long enough for the RTV to cure. I used Sikasil RTV Acetic Cure glue but could not get it in black. Had to use clear but it has come up looking pretty good, better than the old peeling, perished seals that were there.

[Riley88]

Pulled the binnacle and installed all LEDs with the help of Christians advice here on the forum. Myc ar is now 100% LED even the ac panel minus ofc the battery bulb lol. I think i found out the issue with my temp gauge not working. it can spin freely and do complete circles around the gauge with no resistance. The voltage gauge when carefully touching it does not. Therefore I guess I will be ordering a new gauge since the temp sender was replaced in 2015. I also pulled out the covers in the bonnet to get to the steering shaft to install my new one but it was too late to install. Few of the m5 bolts are stripped, so after removal ill have to buy a few more. Fun productive day!

[Farrar]

Drove it from Fort Lauderdale to Miami and back. Fun. :)

[Michael]

Drove it from Fort Lauderdale to Miami and back. Fun. :)

I was in Ft L. a few weeks ago and it never occured to me to reach out to fellow D owners. It was a cool parallel to see so many Ferraris and Lamborghinis (I swear every time I heard one from a distance I thought it was a sportbike) but not one D.
No wonder people go ape when they see one in the wild. I was in Fl. for 1 night and saw 4 Lamborghinis, 2 Ferraris, several Porsches, Teslas, Astons, etc. but not one DeLorean. It would have made my night to see one.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Put my idle motor back in with new hoses. The new DPI hoses are pretty tight. I use a Volvo idle motor that has a barb on the pipes going to the hoses so I decided to sand that barb off the idle motor. Since I pretty often pull the idle motor I did not want to fight with that barb. The OEM idle motor has no barbs. I bought both front and back hoses but decided to just use some 3/4 inch heater hose for the front. There is a little bend in the OEM hose which I found my setup did not need that bend which the straight hose seems to fit better.

Have not decided if I will clamp the hoses yet. They really hold the idle motor fine without clamps (I don't bracket hold my idle motor).

[Riley88]

Pulled the binnacle and installed all LEDs with the help of Christians advice here on the forum. Myc ar is now 100% LED even the ac panel minus ofc the battery bulb lol. I think i found out the issue with my temp gauge not working. it can spin freely and do complete circles around the gauge with no resistance. The voltage gauge when carefully touching it does not. Therefore I guess I will be ordering a new gauge since the temp sender was replaced in 2015. I also pulled out the covers in the bonnet to get to the steering shaft to install my new one but it was too late to install. Few of the m5 bolts are stripped, so after removal ill have to buy a few more. Fun productive day!

totally forgot to include pics.

[Lwanmtr]

Cool. Whatd you use for the dash?

[Gregadeth]

We had some rains here a couple weeks ago. And right after, I noticed I have some water under the carpet, mostly on the passenger side. The flat part of the carpet (directly in front of the seat) was wet, the bottom part of the side carpet (but not the top part under the door) was wet. The carpet on the center console side and the fiberglass were dry. Also, the floor mat was dry as well. So it seems like the water had pooled up under the carpet from somewhere, as opposed to leaking from above.

In a futile attempt to find the leak, I removed the carpet and seat, dried up the fiberglass, closed the door and used a garden hose to make some rain. I focused the hose around the door seals, around the windshield, around the trim piece on the rear quarter panel, and even the rear windshield. I did this a few times, for a few minutes, and it was still bone dry. I know it's not the evap drain as I've checked that in the past, and this only happened following a couple days of somewhat heavy rain (car was parked outside). Any ideas?

[Michael]

We had some rains here a couple weeks ago. And right after, I noticed I have some water under the carpet, mostly on the passenger side. The flat part of the carpet (directly in front of the seat) was wet, the bottom part of the side carpet (but not the top part under the door) was wet. The carpet on the center console side and the fiberglass were dry. Also, the floor mat was dry as well. So it seems like the water had pooled up under the carpet from somewhere, as opposed to leaking from above.

In a futile attempt to find the leak, I removed the carpet and seat, dried up the fiberglass, closed the door and used a garden hose to make some rain. I focused the hose around the door seals, around the windshield, around the trim piece on the rear quarter panel, and even the rear windshield. I did this a few times, for a few minutes, and it was still bone dry. I know it's not the evap drain as I've checked that in the past, and this only happened following a couple days of somewhat heavy rain (car was parked outside). Any ideas?

Was it driven in the rain?

[Farrar]

We had some rains here a couple weeks ago. And right after, I noticed I have some water under the carpet, mostly on the passenger side.

I had a similar problem. Every time the car was left outside in a hard rain, I found water underneath and behind the passenger seat and floor mats. Turned out my car has the early-style body holes underneath the side vents. Once I sealed those, the water intrusion problem went away.

[mark w]

Installed my own front suspension support bar.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F2tzZKMS5f0JNc598k8w6r-sT_Ht5Z-rBWAmE0NwH0hkx1qYzY3Pvke5UWKvFsYeNUUeB4acTYAc9hNAI tdmDIKO0-ktgl0p7hl1R5q0c3GlIGjMpCijwceyHD3pkj46_K80zw7niMvz U34g1PSE0XjDGPn1kVzoRdarOPP_2CVRwg9BshmsgLDpXc5J3h-_sJtQL-5GnoH4H9fPJ1G7BtdU64nA7_oeCqyy3ttqog0kEBO_-9ru1r4PsYrcl-YgsgFBfCW6IhCkw4fjIc5fhGXBTgeX6d05FUg8tZFsMvCyj_x3 ui0OmWLOT-F-tYEu4Sn9s3P_-zg5Ja8ttxzP9NmTsz6uszciGJ_y46IOOTim2DpA-u-wF-8vQs8B6Gyog2yiMJy3zvHdrErsAkLVr4HdVTjk3offcIyuUmAh Se_HOammC1rdXj5Yt_HhusuedvR17vR2nOHASZ-Cz6pHIIu2UGbdxduumZhdWaQtPOSBivqzGIAOwPw6-C687KZgrRxWX_DEXjSZQf_FeE3OdWm4axqRCgALJUGxh6yOCXJ qi_rFhnq7DehhKFPPfautR7vOLBjUKg1KYddfpOiNtelPqVpFH eQSgG4jmJzw6yJMJ4OEItShk3uIZIt6dgIWZFKkO7oTcVuvT6E RxCERiXNGDA=w1026-h577-no

[CFI]

Cleaned it up, took it for a spin and stopped in at a local Cars and Coffee.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59103&d=1548611251

[Farrar]

Tried to replace the lower radiator brackets and bushings and ran into a snag...

59108

[Gregadeth]

Was it driven in the rain?I did drive it in the rain one day, and then the next couple days it was parked in the rain.


I had a similar problem. Every time the car was left outside in a hard rain, I found water underneath and behind the passenger seat and floor mats. Turned out my car has the early-style body holes underneath the side vents. Once I sealed those, the water intrusion problem went away.Yeah I thought it could also be the holes behind the rear speakers, but I held the hose right on those vents and still no water developed inside. The area behind the seat and the battery compartment were dry, even from the start.

[Farrar]

Yeah I thought it could also be the holes behind the rear speakers, but I held the hose right on those vents and still no water developed inside. The area behind the seat and the battery compartment were dry, even from the start.

:( Good luck pinpointing the source!

[DMC81]

Separated the frame and body this weekend.

59175

[DMC-81]

Separated the frame and body this weekend.

59175

Cool. Good luck with the frame off restoration. :wrenchin:

[DMC81]

Cool. Good luck with the frame off restoration. :wrenchin:

Thank you Sir, this will be a slow process for me but well worth the wait in the end.

[Michael]

Separated the frame and body this weekend.

59175


Nice, I would welcome the opportunity to do that with mine if for nothing else, to completely refresh and detail all the little nooks and places I could normally never reach.

[opethmike]

Nice, I would welcome the opportunity to do that with mine if for nothing else, to completely refresh and detail all the little nooks and places I could normally never reach.

Come make my LS swap look good.

[Michael]

Come make my LS swap look good.

The only way I could make your car look better is to lay on it with my shirt off.

Then a bunch of pansies would be all "GOTFH"!

[CFI]

The only way I could make your car look better is to lay on it with my shirt off.

Then a bunch of pansies would be all "GOTFH"!

This made my day. Thanks for posting this 😀

[CFI]

Today I drove my 2,000th mile in just 3 months:) and I’ll be installing some of Dave’s relays tonight.

[CFI]

Installed DeLorean Go’s switch aligner and rearranged my switches.

59181

[Jonathan]

I noticed the little car image on the bags for my winter tires looked somewhat familiar...

59182

It kinda looks like it's ready for hover mode.

[bueller]

Installed the same LED headlights with halos that Christian Dietrich did back in October 2017 as described further back in this thread. Thank you for listing the parts and letting us know what worked for you! Pretty straightforward and looks so much better than the original ones.

[TheStoffel]

Picked up the sub box and kick panel enclosures from DMC CA. I'll spend the next month or two overhauling the stereo, replacing the foam under layers in the car, and refurbishing the carpet.

Note: The kick panels are sized for 5.25" speakers, not 6-6.5" like some of the previous posts I've seen here. They must have gone through a redesign?

59183

[Farrar]

Test fit the new radiator.

59231

59232

[DMC-81]

Today, I installed Dave McKeen's (Bitsyncmaster) Fused Fan Fail unit and his Solid State Cooling fan relay. During testing, I saw my fan fail light come on for the first time as I just had the fused jumpers. (I previously replaced the bulb with an LED version.)

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59275&d=1550363542

What a great upgrade! Very nice features on both units. :rock_on:

[CFI]

Today I performed a few speed tests to check the accuracy of my new SpeedBox. Very happy with the results!

[Farrar]

Yesterday I installed new condenser, radiator, fan shroud, fans, radiator duct -- of course all new hardware/fasteners for everything -- plus weatherpak connectors for the fans. Also tested fans. Very happy with the new radiator & fan shroud from DPI.

59311

[Parzival]

Did a car show Saturday, I won peoples choice!
http://i64.tinypic.com/2ahs36d.jpg
but....
Then later that night I was driving and noticed the temp was at 220 and rising. It never gets that hot. pulled over, to find My coolant leaking out!
I've replaced every coolant hose in the car all of the valley hoses and everything EXCEPT the two right above the fuel plate. The ones right in the middle of the car underneath.
Now they are ALL done, fixed her up this afternoon, and took her all around town, she's cooling like a champ now.
Heres the ruptured hose because I know everyone love war stories and the scars to go with them.
http://i68.tinypic.com/sdcnr4.jpg

[painterdave72]

always a fun show.. about 80 percent positive and 20 percent jackass...lol.. heard some weird new made up stuff I have not heard in 30 yrs of ownership..

[Farrar]

Burped the cooling system and filled the a/c system. About ready to go for a drive and see how those new poly bushings on the front are working out. :)

[Parzival]

Dropped in new spark plugs, Weird thing was the old ones had gaps like 3 times larger then spec. The new plugs really smoothed out the idle. Its really running like a top now. Well... I drove it a lot yesterday, and the fuel pump started making the noise they make when the fuel gets hot. I called it a night. Went back out this morning and all was fine. I know there has been a lot of discussion on how to keep the fuel tank cool, I still have an original style fuel pump. Is heat still and issue if I switch to the new style from DMCH?

[Silverbullet]

I have had the new pump for over 7 years, and have driven in really hot weather, and never had a Fuel Pump issue...

Craig

[Jonathan]

Dropped in new spark plugs, Weird thing was the old ones had gaps like 3 times larger then spec. The new plugs really smoothed out the idle. Its really running like a top now. Well... I drove it a lot yesterday, and the fuel pump started making the noise they make when the fuel gets hot. I called it a night. Went back out this morning and all was fine. I know there has been a lot of discussion on how to keep the fuel tank cool, I still have an original style fuel pump. Is heat still and issue if I switch to the new style from DMCH?

It's more to do with the pick-up hose getting hot and collapsing and starving the pump of fuel on the suction side than anything else. Like drinking a glass of water with lemon through a straw and you suck up a lemon seed. Straw tends to collapse and you don't get your drink.

There are a few ways to fix that pick-up hose issue. Yours might just be pushed over against the side of the tank (on the inside). Rotating the pump assembly (including the boot) slightly may help. Or insert the spring inside the hose to keep it firm. Kind of like a stint for clogged arteries. Or, yes, get the new pump/sender combo. Not because the pump itself fixes things, but because it doesn't use the original pick-up hose arrangement.

The fuel is always going to get hot in warm weather because of the coolant pipes running along side the fuel tank. Hot engine plus hotter ambient temperatures (i.e. not as cool of air going past the radiator) is the way it goes.

[Parzival]

It's more to do with the pick-up hose getting hot and collapsing and starving the pump of fuel on the suction side than anything else. Like drinking a glass of water with lemon through a straw and you suck up a lemon seed. Straw tends to collapse and you don't get your drink.

There are a few ways to fix that pick-up hose issue. Yours might just be pushed over against the side of the tank (on the inside). Rotating the pump assembly (including the boot) slightly may help. Or insert the spring inside the hose to keep it firm. Kind of like a stint for clogged arteries. Or, yes, get the new pump/sender combo. Not because the pump itself fixes things, but because it doesn't use the original pick-up hose arrangement.

The fuel is always going to get hot in warm weather because of the coolant pipes running along side the fuel tank. Hot engine plus hotter ambient temperatures (i.e. not as cool of air going past the radiator) is the way it goes.

Thanks, I'd rather not replace it if its still ok, I drove it today not quite as long, and it was fine. Didn't have time to get as hot. Do you know what kind of metal the springs people use are? I had to put something in there that corrodes and sends a bunch of shit into my perfectly running Kjettronics!

[DMC-81]

Dropped in new spark plugs, Weird thing was the old ones had gaps like 3 times larger then spec. The new plugs really smoothed out the idle. Its really running like a top now. Well... I drove it a lot yesterday, and the fuel pump started making the noise they make when the fuel gets hot. I called it a night. Went back out this morning and all was fine. I know there has been a lot of discussion on how to keep the fuel tank cool, I still have an original style fuel pump. Is heat still and issue if I switch to the new style from DMCH?

Cool. That's great that the spark plugs resolved the idle issue.

On the fuel pump, I can tell you that I've had the new all in one module from DMC since I bought my car in 2013. No issues. One tip I read on here and try to follow is aiming to keep the tank as full as possible. I believe that mitigates the fuel heating problem. So far, so good in our warm climate.

Perhaps try the full tank philosophy with the old pump and see if it makes a difference?

( As discussed, I also use non-ethanol fuel... personal preference. I can now get 89 octane at 2 different Wawa's nearby.)

[Parzival]

Cool. That's great that the spark plugs resolved the idle issue.



Yeah, the ones in there had huge gaps, Not sure what the think was by who ever put those in there. I gapped the new ones to spec, but was concerned by how the old ones were. Turned out to be just what it needed. So far the acceleration is smooth with no hesitation, and the intermittent rough idle is gone, I tested on a few good drives now with out the prior issues popping up!

[hippieman9]

Installed new shift bushings, and started rebuilding rear calipers.

[Farrar]

89°F today. Before a cool front comes in tomorrow I decided to go for a drive and test the a/c. After 20 minutes it was so cold in there I had to turn it down from "Max" to "Norm." (And my wife calls me a "polar bear" because I like the thermostat at 68 at home. LOL) I'd say I'm pretty happy with my new R-134a system. :) Fan makes a flappy noise, though. I think there's a leaf in there. Gonna pull the fan assembly and clean out the box this weekend.

[Parzival]

89°F today. Before a cool front comes in tomorrow I decided to go for a drive and test the a/c. After 20 minutes it was so cold in there I had to turn it down from "Max" to "Norm." (And my wife calls me a "polar bear" because I like the thermostat at 68 at home. LOL) I'd say I'm pretty happy with my new R-134a system. :) Fan makes a flappy noise, though. I think there's a leaf in there. Gonna pull the fan assembly and clean out the box this weekend.

I saw your youtube video. Glad to hear that the R-134a taste ok.

[Farrar]

Glad to hear that the R-134a taste ok.

No, no - it was the PAG oil that tasted awful! LOL

[Parzival]

No, no - it was the PAG oil that tasted awful! LOL

That’s true, the gas itself is probably tasteless.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FABombjoy]

That’s true, the gas itself is probably tasteless.
It used to be used in asthma inhalers.

[Farrar]

Drove 60 miles to Miami and back. First experience driving at highway speeds with the radiator duct installed. Really liking the result.

Had a bit of excitement when a guy in a pristine blue Porsche convertible slowed down passing me so that his passenger could take a photo of my beat up and dirty DMC. Gotta love the world's cheapest exotic car. LOL

[Boxbot]

Got all my parts in from various vendors. Will be replacing all hoses in coolant system, water pump, installing my second-hand Stage I exhaust, and will have fascias repainted along with some other things shortly. From my first experience ordering, Delorean Industries was by far the best experience I had with their knowledge, communication and shipping speed. I ordered some additional parts from them after another vendor told me they didn't have items in stock that I had ordered 11 days prior.

In the meantime, I couldn't wait to make these two small cosmetic changes that make a big difference. The shift knob is beautiful and impossibly heavy. The website photos don't do it justice. In hindsight, I probably could have heated and flattened the Craig surround, but oh well.

59398

[Riley88]

Got all my parts in from various vendors. Will be replacing all hoses in coolant system, water pump, installing my second-hand Stage I exhaust, and will have fascias repainted along with some other things shortly. From my first experience ordering, Delorean Industries was by far the best experience I had with their knowledge, communication and shipping speed. I ordered some additional parts from them after another vendor told me they didn't have items in stock that I had ordered 11 days prior.

In the meantime, I couldn't wait to make these two small cosmetic changes that make a big difference. The shift knob is beautiful and impossibly heavy. The website photos don't do it justice. In hindsight, I probably could have heated and flattened the Craig surround, but oh well.

59398
Who did you order a shift knob from?

[Dontilgon]

Got all my parts in from various vendors. Will be replacing all hoses in coolant system, water pump, installing my second-hand Stage I exhaust, and will have fascias repainted along with some other things shortly. From my first experience ordering, Delorean Industries was by far the best experience I had with their knowledge, communication and shipping speed. I ordered some additional parts from them after another vendor told me they didn't have items in stock that I had ordered 11 days prior.

In the meantime, I couldn't wait to make these two small cosmetic changes that make a big difference. The shift knob is beautiful and impossibly heavy. The website photos don't do it justice. In hindsight, I probably could have heated and flattened the Craig surround, but oh well.

59398

+1 Delorean Industries customer service is second to none and its clear that the detail of there products are meticulous. I mean just the brackets that hold the overflow tank are impressive.

[Boxbot]

Who did you order a shift knob from?

DMCH. The one that arrived is different than the picture, though. It says DMC in the shift pattern, the pattern is etched and the lines aren't as thick as shown. Really nice.

https://store.delorean.com/p-9249-knob-shift-metal-wpattern.aspx

[vwdmc16]

Whipped up a set of adjustable rear camber links. 594005940159402

[Parzival]

Drove 60 miles to Miami and back. First experience driving at highway speeds with the radiator duct installed. Really liking the result.

Had a bit of excitement when a guy in a pristine blue Porsche convertible slowed down passing me so that his passenger could take a photo of my beat up and dirty DMC. Gotta love the world's cheapest exotic car. LOL

Nice, I was out around town and I got a text with a video in it from a friend. He caught me!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CQIBs4tJQg

[bytes311]

Installed new rear brake flex hoses, rebuilt the rear calipers, and replaced the brake pads. The piston in my rear caliper on the passenger side had been seized for years; essentially I only had three working brakes.

Removing the passenger side rear flex hose was a real PITA. I would strongly suggest using a crowfoot wrench set. I got mine from Harbor Freight for only $11 and it made the job so much easier because you're working in such a tight space.

59406 59407

[Farrar]

#2613 didn't have a high pressure release valve or high pressure safety switch. It does now. I had to make a harness for the switch. Since I had some 3mm crimp pins leftover from another project I used them on the old connector instead of cutting and splicing into the loop of wire that was already there.

59409

Since I had to buy a connector for the high pressure switch, I bought two of them and used the other for the low pressure switch, which had previously used 1/4" spade terminals (previous owner probably installed them when the stock connector broke). The pigtails were $2.50 each and they provide a good seal against the elements.

59410

I also replaced the low pressure switch. Ignore the "R-12" designation on the switch: this one has been retrofitted for R-134a. There was a sticker there proclaiming as much, but I saw that turning into a gooey mess in the future so I removed it before installation.

[Col Bennett]

After a minor coolant leak behind my water pump, I used the manifold removal as a good excuse to give my engine bay and components a thorough detail and refresh. All of the aluminum has been deep cleaned and the screws and brackets have been re-plated.

It's been a painstaking process. I'm half-way through the re-assembly and should be done by the weekend - just in time for cars and coffee season to show it off.

Thanks to fellow local NorCal owners Maor and Rich for help this past weekend and thanks to Tony Ierardi for the inspiration.

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-12_engine_refresh_01.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-12_engine_refresh_02.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-12_engine_refresh_03.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-12_engine_refresh_04.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-12_engine_refresh_05.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-12_engine_refresh_06.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-12_engine_refresh_07.jpg

[Parzival]

After a minor coolant leak behind my water pump, I used the manifold removal as a good excuse to give my engine bay and components a thorough detail and refresh. All of the aluminum has been deep cleaned and the screws and brackets have been re-plated.

It's been a painstaking process. I'm half-way through the re-assembly and should be done by the weekend - just in time for cars and coffee season to show it off.

Thanks to fellow local NorCal owners Maor and Rich for help this past weekend and thanks to Tony Ierardi for the inspiration.


Wow, that looks SO good

[Col Bennett]

Wow, that looks SO good

Thanks so much. I can see light on the horizon after a month of sweating the details.

[Parzival]

Thanks so much. I can see light on the horizon after a month of sweating the details.

don't even bother putting the rear fascia on, just let people see that engine compartment!

[DMC-81]

After a minor coolant leak behind my water pump, I used the manifold removal as a good excuse to give my engine bay and components a thorough detail and refresh. All of the aluminum has been deep cleaned and the screws and brackets have been re-plated.

It's been a painstaking process. I'm half-way through the re-assembly and should be done by the weekend - just in time for cars and coffee season to show it off.

Thanks to fellow local NorCal owners Maor and Rich for help this past weekend and thanks to Tony Ierardi for the inspiration.


That looks amazing Colin! Impeccable work. :fancy:

[Jonathan]

That looks amazing Colin! Impeccable work. :fancy:

Good grief! You two are in a league of your own. Wow! Super nice, Colin. Great job.

[Col Bennett]

That looks amazing Colin! Impeccable work. :fancy:

I should have said “Thanks to Tony Ierardi and Dana for the inspiration.”

Cheers Dana!

[Rich]

Wow, that looks SO good

This job is truly breathtaking to behold.

It's a nominee for the best-looking, cleanest VOD water leak repair job ever.

[Col Bennett]

This job is truly breathtaking to behold.

It's a nominee for the best-looking, cleanest VOD water leak repair job ever.

Oh Rich, you're too kind. Thanks for the help on Sunday and… later this week :notworthy:

[AirmanPika]

I jacked the engine back up again to relive stress on various parts. Still no luck lining up the transmission with the pilot bearing.

[Farrar]

Got the courtesy lights working with both doors. The diodes are missing from my car; it's a temporary fix but at least now I don't have to have the driver's side open to look for something in the passenger footwell. Diodes are on my shopping list.

Panel gaps on the front of the car bothered me for a long time. I added some shims (M5 stainless steel fender washers but I call them shims) to the back half of the left front fender to better align with the height of the hood: there's a slight drop from the hood on both sides, but at least now the drop is more uniform. If I could pull both fenders away from the car a couple of millimeters they would also perfectly align with the doors (now that the roof cage is bolted down the doors open and close perfectly so I'm not adjusting them), but I haven't figured that out yet. I'm not messing with the hood's height because the bumpers are just the right height to stop it from being loose, but the hood also looks like it's more aligned toward the passenger side than the driver side. If I could slip it sideways a millimeter or so it would be perfect. But I'm not fretting about it. It doesn't bind against the trim strip so it's not like it's all that tight on the passenger side.

Lubricated the hood latch and catch. It still doesn't pop up when the release is pulled, though, so I think that spring is tired and needs replacing. Added to the list.

While I had the hood open I saw the fasteners holding on the hood safety plates (or whatever they're called) and thought, "Hm, that looks like a familiar size." I had some stainless fasteners left over from another project and replaced the rusty ones there with stainless.

Then having got dirty greasy fingerprints all over the car for months, I gave it a bath. It's fun to finish a bunch of work by making the car pretty again. :)

[bfloyd]

Been working on replacing my original cooling fans with a new set from DeloreanGo, and so far it's been a pain in the ass. I managed to get the old fans out without draining the radiator or disconnecting the A/C condenser.

New fans from DeloreanGO arrived yesterday. Box was beat all to hell, and the new aluminum fan shroud was dented and bent in a couple of places, but I did manage to get those straightened out. I installed my radiator in the spring of 2015 right after I got the car, so I can't really remember which vendor I got it from. I believe it was from John Hervey, but I'm not sure. Radiator has been performing flawlessly since I installed it and the old fans bolted right up to it.

Installing the new set of fans last night and I noticed the new shroud only had 4 mounting holes as opposed to the 6 on the old fans. No big deal, so I layed the old fan shroud on top of the new one and tried to line up the four holes that were already drilled in the new shroud with the old one. I could either line up the bottom two or the top two, but not all 4 at the same time. I ended up drilling 3 new holes in the top mounting flange and one on the bottom flange in the center.

Proud of my work, I crawled under the car with the front wheels up on ramps and brought the new fans with me. They don't fit. I tried every which way I could, but it either hit the petcock drain on the bottom left hand side of the radiator or the top radiator hose on the top right of the radiator. Now that I'm pissed off, I wrestle the new fans out from under the car and in the process crack one of the flimsy plastic fan cages on the back of the new fans. You'd think these things would be made out of metal... but no.

I ended up taking a hacksaw and cutting a 45 degree corner of of each flange, and sawed a 3/4 inch corner off of the lower left hand side to get the shroud past the petcock drain. Crawled back under the car and slid it right into place with no problems. I've got the bottom 3 bolts in, but still have the top row left to go.

I fully understand that no vendor can anticipate which aftermarket radiator someone has in their car, where the bolt holes might be, and I don't blame them a bit. I did however expect the fans themselves to be a little more rugged than what was delivered. It's very possible they were damaged in shipping and I just didn't see it.

Still have to get the top bolts done, the radiator support brackets back on, and the plastic air dam thing back on. I'll probably tackle the rest of that tomorrow night, and then start to work on replacing the relay socket.

Also... looking at the factory wiring harness for the cooling fans, I expected to see 2 wires in each connector to mate with the 2 wires in the fan connectors. It's not that way. There seems to be 4 wires going into the plug. I'm trying to determine which is the hot and which is the ground. Anyone have a clue?

[bfloyd]

Been working on replacing my original cooling fans with a new set from DeloreanGo, and so far it's been a pain in the ass. I managed to get the old fans out without draining the radiator or disconnecting the A/C condenser.

New fans from DeloreanGO arrived yesterday. Box was beat all to hell, and the new aluminum fan shroud was dented and bent in a couple of places, but I did manage to get those straightened out. I installed my radiator in the spring of 2015 right after I got the car, so I can't really remember which vendor I got it from. I believe it was from John Hervey, but I'm not sure. Radiator has been performing flawlessly since I installed it and the old fans bolted right up to it.

Installing the new set of fans last night and I noticed the new shroud only had 4 mounting holes as opposed to the 6 on the old fans. No big deal, so I layed the old fan shroud on top of the new one and tried to line up the four holes that were already drilled in the new shroud with the old one. I could either line up the bottom two or the top two, but not all 4 at the same time. I ended up drilling 3 new holes in the top mounting flange and one on the bottom flange in the center.

Proud of my work, I crawled under the car with the front wheels up on ramps and brought the new fans with me. They don't fit. I tried every which way I could, but it either hit the petcock drain on the bottom left hand side of the radiator or the top radiator hose on the top right of the radiator. Now that I'm pissed off, I wrestle the new fans out from under the car and in the process crack one of the flimsy plastic fan cages on the back of the new fans. You'd think these things would be made out of metal... but no.

I ended up taking a hacksaw and cutting a 45 degree corner of of each flange, and sawed a 3/4 inch corner off of the lower left hand side to get the shroud past the petcock drain. Crawled back under the car and slid it right into place with no problems. I've got the bottom 3 bolts in, but still have the top row left to go.

I fully understand that no vendor can anticipate which aftermarket radiator someone has in their car, where the bolt holes might be, and I don't blame them a bit. I did however expect the fans themselves to be a little more rugged than what was delivered. It's very possible they were damaged in shipping and I just didn't see it.

Still have to get the top bolts done, the radiator support brackets back on, and the plastic air dam thing back on. I'll probably tackle the rest of that tomorrow night, and then start to work on replacing the relay socket.

Also... looking at the factory wiring harness for the cooling fans, I expected to see 2 wires in each connector to mate with the 2 wires in the fan connectors. It's not that way. There seems to be 4 wires going into the plug. I'm trying to determine which is the hot and which is the ground. Anyone have a clue?

[iflights]

Also... looking at the factory wiring harness for the cooling fans, I expected to see 2 wires in each connector to mate with the 2 wires in the fan connectors. It's not that way. There seems to be 4 wires going into the plug. I'm trying to determine which is the hot and which is the ground. Anyone have a clue?

The only definitive way would be to power up that plug and multimeter it. When I replaced my fans I only had 2 pins to deal with, but that was 2 years ago and I didn't take any photos.

[Farrar]

looking at the factory wiring harness for the cooling fans, I expected to see 2 wires in each connector to mate with the 2 wires in the fan connectors. It's not that way. There seems to be 4 wires going into the plug. I'm trying to determine which is the hot and which is the ground. Anyone have a clue?

Green with black stripe supply power to the fans. Black is ground. On my car each fan had an additional ground wire that had a capacitor and attached to the frame - the wires were yellow before the capacitor and black after the capacitor. I discarded those wires (one was broken anyway) and simply used two-wire connectors, one for each fan:

59424

The fans work fine with just the two wires.

[dodint]

Hired a locksmith.

59425

[Parzival]

Been working on replacing my original cooling fans with a new set from DeloreanGo, and so far it's been a pain in the ass. I managed to get the old fans out without draining the radiator or disconnecting the A/C condenser.

New fans from DeloreanGO arrived yesterday. Box was beat all to hell, and the new aluminum fan shroud was dented and bent in a couple of places, but I did manage to get those straightened out. I installed my radiator in the spring of 2015 right after I got the car, so I can't really remember which vendor I got it from. I believe it was from John Hervey, but I'm not sure. Radiator has been performing flawlessly since I installed it and the old fans bolted right up to it.

Installing the new set of fans last night and I noticed the new shroud only had 4 mounting holes as opposed to the 6 on the old fans. No big deal, so I layed the old fan shroud on top of the new one and tried to line up the four holes that were already drilled in the new shroud with the old one. I could either line up the bottom two or the top two, but not all 4 at the same time. I ended up drilling 3 new holes in the top mounting flange and one on the bottom flange in the center.



What is the reason for replacing the shroud?
When I replaced the radiator I did the fans at the same time, but I reused the shroud, cleaned it up and it looked fine to me.

http://i63.tinypic.com/10xrebk.jpg

[Farrar]

Tightened the serpentine belt to cure the a/c squeal, aired up the tires, and went for a drive. Got a thumbs up from a Miata driver and a near-collision from a Corolla. Gonna make sure my dashcam is working. Louder horns are on their way to me in the mail.

[bfloyd]

What is the reason for replacing the shroud?
When I replaced the radiator I did the fans at the same time, but I reused the shroud, cleaned it up and it looked fine to me.

My original shroud was broken in two places. It worked fine, but I had heard so much praise for the DPI fans and the DeloreanGo fans, that I decided to bite the bullet and go with the DeloreanGo fans. In hindsight, I'd probably do what you did and just replace the fans and not the shroud.

[Jonathan]

The garage is almost warm enough to get working again. It's been a loooong, cold winter here.

The fuel lines are the main focus. The TABs, engine mounts and transmission mounts will likely wait until the car is on a lift. And she's getting new tires in the near future too. Giddyup!

59427

[Delorean Industries]

The garage is almost warm enough to get working again. It's been a loooong, cold winter here.

The fuel lines are the main focus. The TABs, engine mounts and transmission mounts will likely wait until the car is on a lift. And she's getting new tires in the near future too. Giddyup!

59427

Jonathan,

This looks like one of our line kits in the top right corner. I see the distinct 180 for the freq valve and custom adapter fitting we manufacture.

[Jonathan]

Jonathan,

This looks like one of our line kits in the top right corner. I see the distinct 180 for the freq valve and custom adapter fitting we manufacture.

It sure is, Josh. I got it a season or two ago from a forum member selling it. He got the kit but then decided to go EFI and so didn't end up needing it. I couldn't believe how nice it looked when it arrived. 'Pretty' might not be a typical word to describe car parts, but it fits in this case. Really looking forward to seeing it installed on the car. Dana posted a great explanation of how he swapped over his frequency valve to the new lines and I'll do something similar for my own car.

The black hose came from Midwest years ago and is to replace the hardline that goes from the accumulator to the filter. Mine got twisted in around 2010 when the accumulator got replaced and so we cut out the short section with the pinhole leak and put in a piece of fuel line hose with clamps to fix it. This hose is the more long term solution.

And the last piece I was waiting for on the TABs set is your SS brackets that are on their way. Slight detour through family members in Florida to be brought home in early April. I'd have shipped it direct but the customs fees and whatnot are just brutal coming into Canada via Fed-Ex and UPS. The Snowbird delivery service is much more reasonable :)

[Delorean Industries]

It sure is, Josh. I got it a season or two ago from a forum member selling it. He got the kit but then decided to go EFI and so didn't end up needing it. I couldn't believe how nice it looked when it arrived. 'Pretty' might not be a typical word to describe car parts, but it fits in this case. Really looking forward to seeing it installed on the car. Dana posted a great explanation of how he swapped over his frequency valve to the new lines and I'll do something similar for my own car.

The black hose came from Midwest years ago and is to replace the hardline that goes from the accumulator to the filter. Mine got twisted in around 2010 when the accumulator got replaced and so we cut out the short section with the pinhole leak and put in a piece of fuel line hose with clamps to fix it. This hose is the more long term solution.

And the last piece I was waiting for on the TABs set is your SS brackets that are on their way. Slight detour through family members in Florida to be brought home in early April. I'd have shipped it direct but the customs fees and whatnot are just brutal coming into Canada via Fed-Ex and UPS. The Snowbird delivery service is much more reasonable :)

Yes! We shipped that order to Florida for you early this week. If you can please PM us with who the lines came from. This way we can update the product warranty card to you from the previous owner. Thanks!

[Farrar]

Safety upgrade:

59500

[Lwanmtr]

Sonic Disruptors?

[dodint]

Train horn?

[Riley88]

Planning a trip into the vod this weekend to clean, replace a temp sensor and check it out. First time, wish me luck

[Farrar]

Sonic Disruptors?

Technically, isn't anything that makes a sound a "sonic disruptor"? ;)

Those are Hella "Supertone" horns (https://www.hella.com/MicroSite/horns/pdf/J00467_KI_B133_EN.pdf). (Link to product info on manufacturer website)


Train horn?

I'm pretty sure train horns require compressed air.

[Lwanmtr]

How much those things cost ya?

[dodint]

I'm pretty sure train horns require compressed air.

They sure do!

[Farrar]

How much those things cost ya?

You have a couple of options with these. They come without a relay for a little less than $30, or with a relay for a little more than $30.

Since the stock horn circuit has no relay (lolwut), I bought the kit which includes one, but that led to disappointment. It's just a four-terminal relay, which requires doubling up the wires on one of the connectors. I would have preferred a dual-output relay so that I can hook one #87 terminal to one horn and the other #87 terminal to the other horn, but that's just my personal preference -- I'm sure the horns don't draw a lot of power so putting both on one output is sufficient. If I were to do this again, however, I'd buy the kit without the relay and use a dual-output relay purchased separately.

Although the horns are mounted a couple of inches behind the grille, if the sound is too muffled I'll relocate them. Since the bracket is just made of pop rivets, rivnuts, and 1/8"x1" aluminum it's not like I will have wasted much money on it.

[Lwanmtr]

Did you rivet right into the fiberglass?

[Farrar]

Today thanks to a photo posted on this forum by Dave Swingle I attached the bracket with the wiper delay module, flasher module, etc. the way it is supposed to be attached. It's been rattling around at my left foot for over eleven years. LOL

[Farrar]

Did you rivet right into the fiberglass?

Why would I do that? The horn bracket attaches to the fascia support bracket.

[bfloyd]

Why would I do that? The horn bracket attaches to the fascia support bracket.

Fascia support bracket? On my car the horn brackets are held on with the two top bolts of the radiator support bracket. I just replaced my stock fans with new ones from DeloreanGo and installing the horns was the last piece I had to do under the car.

[Farrar]

On my car the horn brackets are held on with the two top bolts of the radiator support bracket.

That's because your horns are in the stock position.

Rob was referring to my car's new horns, which are mounted behind the grille with a bracket I made:

59503

Sorry for the confusion!

[Lwanmtr]

oh hadnt noticed where they mounted

[Col Bennett]

Almost done with my engine detail/refresh. The ceramic coated muffler is on and the coolant system is solid as a rock. Tested at various pressures (with a dry system and coolant added). Next stop is attaching the intake manifold, air assembly and fuel lines when I find time this weekend. Been battling an awful stomach flu for the past few days so I’m hugely behind schedule - but almost there.

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-22_engine_refresh_08.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-22_engine_refresh_09.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-22_engine_refresh_10.jpg

[DMC-81]

[QUOTE=C.Bennett;244564]Almost done with my engine detail/refresh. The ceramic coated muffler is on and the coolant system is solid as a rock. Tested at various pressures (with a dry system and coolant added). Next stop is attaching the intake manifold, air assembly and fuel lines when I find time this weekend. Been battling an awful stomach flu for the past few days so I’m hugely behind schedule - but almost there.


Very nice! It looks like automotive jewellery!

[Col Bennett]

Very nice! It looks like automotive jewellery!

Haha. Thanks Dana! It sure scrubbed up well. Spot on for another 38 years if I keep on top of it ;)

[Col Bennett]

Almost there. Took these photos yesterday morning.

Finished almost everything up last night, including my most dreaded task of all - re-attaching the fuel lines. Turned out they were pretty straight forward. Torqued them to the lowest manual values - M8 7ft/lbs, M10 (9ft/lbs) and M12 (14ft/lbs) so I've got some torque head room if there's any weeping. I really don't need a sheared banjo bolt to ruin my week.

Got the air filter box and a few other minor bits and bobs to finish up tonight when I get home from work. Excited to fire her back up tomorrow morning.

What started as a small coolant leak fix behind my water pump turned into a two month full cosmetic engine detail and refresh. No detail has been overlooked (I hope).

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-25_engine_refresh_11.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-25_engine_refresh_12.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-25_engine_refresh_13.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-25_engine_refresh_14.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-25_engine_refresh_15.jpg

[bfloyd]

That engine is absolutely gorgeous. Congratulations on a job well done!

[DavidProehl]

That is amazing, looks better than new!

[Lwanmtr]

Wow..thats looking really clean n spiffy.....my offer of a 6pack to come clean mine is still open...ill even throw in a burger :giggle:

[Col Bennett]

That engine is absolutely gorgeous. Congratulations on a job well done!


That is amazing, looks better than new!


Wow..thats looking really clean n spiffy.....my offer of a 6pack to come clean mine is still open...ill even throw in a burger :giggle:

Thanks so much guys!

[cis6409]

Inspiring...
hats off to you sir..
Love engine pics like that
Brilliant!

Shane

[Col Bennett]

And… Done!

Fired her back up yesterday and took her out for a good few laps around the block today after two months of sweating every last detail in the engine bay. I swear she’s running better than ever. Just the intake bracket to re-attach for you eagle eyed engine buffs - which I’ll do once the rear fascia is reattached.

Considering I’ve barely tuned a wrench in my life, I’m pretty impressed with myself right now. Countless days and hours cleaning, detailing, refinishing and wrenching. Pouring my heart and soul into it. Nothing but the best for my dream car. I promised the previous owner of my car - Ben (Soundkillr at DMCTalk) - that I'd meticulously care for the car. Promise kept.

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-29_engine_refresh_16.jpg

[Lwanmtr]

Looks awesome.

[Col Bennett]

Inspiring...
hats off to you sir..
Love engine pics like that
Brilliant!

Shane


Looks awesome.

Thanks guys!

[DMC-81]

And… Done!

Fired her back up yesterday and took her out for a good few laps around the block today after two months of sweating every last detail in the engine bay. I swear she’s running better than ever. Just the intake bracket to re-attach for you eagle eyed engine buffs - which I’ll do once the rear fascia is reattached.

Considering I’ve barely tuned a wrench in my life, I’m pretty impressed with myself right now. Countless days and hours cleaning, detailing, refinishing and wrenching. Pouring my heart and soul into it. Nothing but the best for my dream car. I promised the previous owner of my car - Ben (Soundkillr at DMCTalk) - that I'd meticulously care for the car. Promise kept.


Wow, calendar photo worthy! Great job!

Yes, I found that after I finished my engine refresh, it ran better. I think it's because one checks and refurbs everything that causes little niggling detractors to performance. A small vacuum leak here, a corroded or loose electrical connection there, etc.

In addition to a beautiful engine bay, that's a reward for your attention to detail.

Bravo! :hihi:

[Michael]

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-03-29_engine_refresh_16.jpg

It just doesn't get any better than that!

[Col Bennett]

Wow, calendar photo worthy! Great job!

Yes, I found that after I finished my engine refresh, it ran better. I think it's because one checks and refurbs everything that causes little niggling detractors to performance. A small vacuum leak here, a corroded or loose electrical connection there, etc.

In addition to a beautiful engine bay, that's a reward for your attention to detail.

Bravo! :hihi:


It just doesn't get any better than that!

Cheers Dana and Michael. That means a huge deal coming from you guys. Have a great weekend.

[mr_maxime]

Jesus that's insanely clean.

I was losing my mind with my car since I had a oil leak I couldn't find. Oil made its way to the belts and shot it everywhere.

[Farrar]

Replaced the trunk release cable & spring with new ones from DMC Texas. The stainless steel cable is a great upgrade, and the stronger spring makes the trunk "pop" like it should.

Blinged up the front and back of the car slightly with a bunch of stainless steel hardware, plus DPI's stainless steel strut mount brackets and intrusion brackets for the trunk. In some cases (e.g. louvres and hood bump stops) I went with black anodized stainless nuts. I'm also using stainless steel gas lift strut ends and stainless steel ball studs, because why not? :P

Unfortunately while replacing the nuts on the trunk cover bump stops the rubber split apart, so I improvised a temporary solution with 1/2" nut covers, which don't look half bad for a hack job. LOL

Replaced the bent OEM trunk release bracket with DPI's stainless steel one. For "aftermarket" parts I am quite impressed by how exactly DPI's stainless reproductions fit. I will definitely buy more of them as I go through the car replacing rusty bits.

[Riley88]

Replaced the trunk release cable & spring with new ones from DMC Texas. The stainless steel cable is a great upgrade, and the stronger spring makes the trunk "pop" like it should.

Blinged up the front and back of the car slightly with a bunch of stainless steel hardware, plus DPI's stainless steel strut mount brackets and intrusion brackets for the trunk. In some cases (e.g. louvres and hood bump stops) I went with black anodized stainless nuts. I'm also using stainless steel gas lift strut ends and stainless steel ball studs, because why not? :P

Unfortunately while replacing the nuts on the trunk cover bump stops the rubber split apart, so I improvised a temporary solution with 1/2" nut covers, which don't look half bad for a hack job. LOL

Replaced the bent OEM trunk release bracket with DPI's stainless steel one. For "aftermarket" parts I am quite impressed by how exactly DPI's stainless reproductions fit. I will definitely buy more of them as I go through the car replacing rusty bits.
My experience with DPI parts has been nothing but astounding mmmm

[Col Bennett]

Jesus that's insanely clean.
:cheers:

It's another exiting day. My fascias are finally ready for pick-up later this afternoon at Canepa in Scotts Valley after months and months of patiently waiting for them to find a slot in their busy schedule. I've got a special birthday milestone coming up very soon so this is a huge present from my family - and the cherry on top of my recent DeLorean work. The paint color and finish was meticulously matched to the paint on an original NOS rear fascia to get it totally spot on. So excited to get them back on the car this weekend.

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-05_fascia_01.jpg

[jawn101]

:cheers:

It's another exiting day. My fascias are finally ready for pick-up later this afternoon at Canepa in Scotts Valley after months and months of patiently waiting for them to find a slot in their busy schedule. I've got a special birthday milestone coming up very soon so this is a huge present from my family - and the cherry on top of my recent DeLorean work. The paint color and finish was meticulously matched to the paint on an original NOS rear fascia to get it totally spot on. So excited to get them back on the car this weekend.

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-05_fascia_01.jpg

Nice! Did you have the black parts painted or just masked and wet sanded? Looks great.

[Col Bennett]

Nice! Did you have the black parts painted or just masked and wet sanded? Looks great.

Hi Jon. After endless samples and refinishing tests on the bare urethane, I crazily decided to color and finish match the bare black urethane and then fully paint the fascias. Obviously this isn't concours accurate as the bumpers should be bare urethane, but the paint match just looked so damned good next to the refinished silver section that I had to do it. As much as we got the bare urethane looking lovely, it was impossible to get it totally perfect next to the silver painted section.

Really happy with how they've turned out. We're also adding Swissvax to the black bumper sections to add an extra layer of protection. It's a high-end wax coating that has similar protection properties to ceramic coating - but with the benefit of being non-permanent so I can easily apply a new coat every 6 months to keep it as nice as possible.

Hopefully see you next weekend in Davis if I can find enough time this weekend and the week ahead to get them both back on. It'll be tight.

[DMC5180]

:cheers:

It's another exiting day. My fascias are finally ready for pick-up later this afternoon at Canepa in Scotts Valley after months and months of patiently waiting for them to find a slot in their busy schedule. I've got a special birthday milestone coming up very soon so this is a huge present from my family - and the cherry on top of my recent DeLorean work. The paint color and finish was meticulously matched to the paint on an original NOS rear fascia to get it totally spot on. So excited to get them back on the car this weekend.

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-05_fascia_01.jpg

Please get the Paint code from them. That’s probably the most spot on match I’ve seen yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jawn101]

Hi Jon. After endless samples and refinishing tests on the bare urethane, I crazily decided to color and finish match the bare black urethane and then fully paint the fascias. Obviously this isn't concours accurate as the bumpers should be bare urethane, but the paint match just looked so damned good next to the refinished silver section that I had to do it. As much as we got the bare urethane looking lovely, it was impossible to get it totally perfect next to the silver painted section.

Really happy with how they've turned out. We're also adding Swissvax to the black bumper sections to add an extra layer of protection. It's a high-end wax coating that has similar protection properties to ceramic coating - but with the benefit of being non-permanent so I can easily apply a new coat every 6 months to keep it as nice as possible.

Hopefully see you next weekend in Davis if I can find enough time this weekend and the week ahead to get them both back on. It'll be tight.

Very cool! I know painted black looks good but my concern is then it won't match my rub strips, side mirrors, fore/aft side vents, or louvers unless i remove and paint all of those too. So my philosophy has always been to keep them all bare.

Can't wait to see it!

[Col Bennett]

Very cool! I know painted black looks good but my concern is then it won't match my rub strips, side mirrors, fore/aft side vents, or louvers unless i remove and paint all of those too. So my philosophy has always been to keep them all bare.

Can't wait to see it!

I totally see the dilemma but if you paint match the bare urethane then it’s gonna match the other plastic and urethane pieces just fine. I checked and it’s totally fine. My other pieces are spot on so I’ll be leaving them totally bare.

[mr_maxime]

Seeing how clean your engine is made me start going overboard last night. I started sanding off every mold line and imperfection in my engine cover. I was fixing some damage and got carried away. I'm tired of having the most ratty looking delorean around lol

http://i.imgur.com/dpXsJFS.jpg

[Lwanmtr]

Mine prolly looks a lil more ratty

[mr_maxime]

Mine prolly looks a lil more ratty

Rusty damaged Lff, missing vent, peeling paint and mud lol
https://i.imgur.com/qwbMRCP.jpg?1

[Lwanmtr]

I have a couple small dents...no mud...but then its been on jackstands for a while..and i only drove it like 4 miles...lol

[mr_maxime]

I have a couple small dents...no mud...but then its been on jackstands for a while..and i only drove it like 4 miles...lol

Lol. I drove mine more in 3 years than the PO did since he bought it in 82. I drove it at least 30k miles in that period.

[Lwanmtr]

Lol. I drove mine more in 3 years than the PO did since he bought it in 82. I drove it at least 30k miles in that period.

Im planning to make it my daily driver...if I ever get it done...hehe

[Col Bennett]

The pick-up on Friday. Wonderful work by Canepa in Scotts Valley. Just a shame about the meteor-sized dent in my bank balance.

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-05_fascia_02.jpg

[Michael]

59679

After replacing a loose dustcap I decided to once again tackle my washer fluid leak. For over ten years it leaked and I never could figure out why and because the tank was such a PITA to get out and I never drove in the rain let alone use the washers, I just left it alone. Today I finally decided to tackle it again. Turns out the pump wasn't leaking at all, the line was crimped and set up. I guess the pressure kept blowing the line off the pump. I tried 4 or 5 times in the past and I never could figure out why the pump leaked. Even got a new pump for it IIRC. Anyway I cut the kinked line and put in a splice, and now my washers work for probably the first time since the car was rebuilt by DMCH.

[mr_maxime]

59679

After replacing a loose dustcap I decided to once again tackle my washer fluid leak. For over ten years it leaked and I never could figure out why and because the tank was such a PITA to get out and I never drove in the rain let alone use the washers, I just left it alone. Today I finally decided to tackle it again. Turns out the pump wasn't leaking at all, the line was crimped and set up. I guess the pressure kept blowing the line off the pump. I tried 4 or 5 times in the past and I never could figure out why the pump leaked. Even got a new pump for it IIRC. Anyway I cut the kinked line and put in a splice, and now my washers work for probably the first time since the car was rebuilt by DMCH.

I tried to fix mine, but the bolts were spinning in the rivnuts so I decided it wasn't worth it haha. I used to just clean the glass pretty often instead.

[dodint]

My leaks intermittently. I can drive it for days and then it will suddenly dump the entire reservoir all at once. Since I rarely drive it in sub-freezing weather I just fill it with water from time to time. I'll fix it someday when I'm working another project in that area.

[mr_maxime]

I did find someone that has a NOS tank available back in Alabama. One of the few times someone told me about someone having a bunch of parts that wasnt DMCH.

[Boxbot]

The pick-up on Friday. Wonderful work by Canepa in Scotts Valley. Just a shame about the meteor-sized dent in my bank balance.

They look beautiful. Was this just a respray or did you get all new bumpers? Do you mind saying what you paid? I have to get mine done.

[Boxbot]

Installed a new air intake to replace the old Rube Goldberg device. I discovered that the hose had a hole in it, so I was sucking in hot air right next to the engine block. Also, the two parts of the air filter container weren't clamped together properly, so it was also taking in hot air past the filter. The car seems to be more responsive now, especially to throttle from a stop.

596855968659687

[AugustneverEnds]

Replaced my ripped CV boots, horrible messy ass job! Retaining rings and socket cap bolts are so much easier to work with than the OEM snap rings and hex head bolts

[Col Bennett]

They look beautiful. Was this just a respray or did you get all new bumpers? Do you mind saying what you paid? I have to get mine done.

Thanks so much. The front fascia is original to the car but the rear is NOS as you can see from the missing license plate bracket jack nuts. The original rear on my car had v-minor heat warping - which always bugged me - so the NOS fascia not only fixed that completely, but also gave me a perfect color reference for the color match. The front was refinished and repainted and the rear (even though it was NOS) was also re-finished to ensure an exact match with the front. DMCH still have a few nice rear fascias in stock but most will have minor paint damage and scuffs on the bare urethane. James and the team hand-picked one that matched my expectations and I got Canepa to iron out all of the imperfections during the refinishing.

I'd rather not say what it cost as I kinda went above and beyond any sane budget with many rounds of paint matching and a refinishing standard that chewed lots of hours and dollars. I got a few quotes in the Bay Area (where labor is off-the-friggin-charts expensive) for around $1200 per fascia but based on what I've read on the forum, you could probably get them both done for as little as $500 per fascia or somewhere in-between if you shop around.

Considering it's the face and ass of your car, it's best to dig deep and do it properly with a reputable shop.

G-luck!

[Boxbot]

Replaced my original French made low note horn with a replacement from DPI. The horn now sounds "normal" and no longer like the car is in pain.