What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Michael]

So what's the deal with your fancy gas cap? Also, what are the two boxes on the pax side?

Ps, with the tower brace you have, can you remove the spare with only one side off? How about checking the brake fluid?

Anytime I need access to the spare or brake fluid I do need to remove two bolts. Not a big deal for me especially considering the number of screws to remove to access the pump or master cyl. In 12 years and 30k miles, I have never had a flat. If I do have a flat, after jacking the car up and removing 4 lugs, 2 more bolts is hardly worth worrying about. I have however needed to access the fuel pump multiple times before moving to DeLorean Industries' offering.

The two packages on the side are a CD changer and a first aid kit.

I got the fancy filler neck fasteners at Spatula City.

[ssdelorean]

The strut tower brace makes a HUGE difference in the front end feel through the curves, especially if you are running stiffer suspension.

Agreed. Way back when they first came out I thought it was just snake oil, but after driving a car before and after I could tell a huge difference when turning, swerving and alike. It really makes the steering feel more responsive and tight.

66921



I got the fancy filler neck fasteners at Spatula City.

"Don't forget, they make great Christmas presents!"

[jackb]

Replaced my injectors. That smoothed out a rough idle and slight loss of power that had recently developed. Two injectors had a slightly less than perfect spray pattern when I tested them. I was a little unsure that was the cause because they were still what I would have considered a decent spray pattern; just not *perfect*. They were all about 12 years old though, so I figured why not. Sure enough, it smoothed out the idle.

Also replaced the bonnet struts; Mine were only a few years old and would not support the weight of the bonnet raised.

[bytes311]

Picked up a 12 AWG wire from the parts store and moved the fuel pump/inertia switch ground wire to the shifter mounting bolt. My voltage gauge reading is a little more accurate now. :thumbup:

66926 66927

[Rich]

Detailed the clear plastic face of our D's clock. At some angles in certain light it was looking a bit sad, scratch-wise. I had seen it like this for years and years, never thinking I could do something about it.

Some masking prep and some plastic polish (Griot's) rubbed on by hand spiffed it up. Masking included the two time-adjust buttons to keep the liquid polish away from them. Now only a few of the deeper scratches remain. That works for me, short of a replacement (NLA).

Before-after photos:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66938&d=1627670979

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66937&d=1627670979

[Helirich]

Well I just spent the last two days driving a 1000 miles to Delaware for some work. (Flight instruction) My student said he felt sick last night when I got here. He just left to go to the hospital to be tested for Covid. If he turns out positive, I will be be driving home. I guess it's a good workout for the D.

I can't get mad at him because about a month ago I was in NY and planned to come south through Delaware for this job and I got covid. So I drove straight home. If I go home today, I guess I will be coming back here in a month. (When he feels better) I'll be crossing the 100,000 mile mark on that trip if not before. (I'm at 98 something now)

[82DMC12]

Working on some updates to 11596 including new fuel lines. Got the frequency valve line assembled so when I install my valve cover later today I'll get that mounted as well. Also drilled out and tapped the ground screw on the driver's side of the intake manifold so I can keep those wires tucked back by the firewall. It broke off many many years ago and I had them attached to one of the L-brackets for the mixture unit ever since. Nice to get them back where they belong!

66950
66952
66951

[82DMC12]

I'm really on a roll, now. Last night and this morning (yes, before work) I accomplished the following:

1) Install new fuel accumulator and high pressure flex lines. This is never a fun job laying on your back on a creeper. The hardest part was holding the accumulator in place while securing the bracket under it. I found a trick though. If you have longer bolts you can start each of them, with the bracket in place, a couple of threads so the bracket hangs down but is ready to bolt in. Then you can slide the accumulator in so the bracket holds it from falling back through the hole while you tighten it up. I was careful to make sure the flex lines won't hit the linkage and ran the front feed line above the accumulator, making a U-turn before clamping it onto the barb.

2) Install new fuel filter. No biggie here.

3) Install DPI feed and return main lines. Easy work here. I found the feed line longer than necessary but that's probably because I have headers and no crossover pipe to contend with. I routed the feed over the transmission and making a gentle loop near the return hard line before it comes up and under to the distributor

4) Removed mixture control unit so I could confirm spark plug wires. Why oh why did I not label the wires on 1, 2, 3 like I did on 4, 5, 6? Well now I am 100% sure which wire is which! At least I didn't have many fuel lines installed yet.

5) Test-fit the injector lines and confirming the correct length for each bank (due to offset on each head).

Still to do tonight - test fit CSV and CPR lines. Once I'm happy with orientation and routing I'll cinch them down as per torque specs in the book.

I'm going to test my injectors tonight so the lines are not tucked in under the intake yet. Once that's done I think I can finally do a fuel pressure test!?!?

66965

[Helirich]

The strut tower brace makes a HUGE difference in the front end feel through the curves, especially if you are running stiffer suspension.

66921

Is this a Deloreango brace? You are totally happy with it? I was toying with making one, but for two bills, it's hardly worth my time. Is there anything you would re-engineer if you were making it?

[Michael]

Is this a Deloreango brace? You are totally happy with it? I was toying with making one, but for two bills, it's hardly worth my time. Is there anything you would re-engineer if you were making it?

I bought mine years ago from the original designer. IIRC it was a prototype and not a production brace that DMCMW sold but it's been so long, I can't remember for sure. I'm sure whichever one you get will be fine. They all do the same thing. Personally I like the one design that is flat and does not require the carpet to be cut.

[WHO1DMC]

Replaced the original TABs, bushings and started a ground upgrade. The TABs you can barely tell that there bent. OK there's only a little over 16000 miles on the OD.

For the gounds I replaced the battery cable. Ran cables to the transmission and ran it to the front of the car. Needed to order more cable ends so the front isn't connected yet. With the little bit that's there I gained a volt at idle. I was getting a little over 13 volts at idle.

I went with 2 gauge welding cable



Dave B.

[Nate88]

Replaced the original TABs, bushings and started a ground upgrade. The TABs you can barely tell that there bent. OK there's only a little over 16000 miles on the OD.

For the gounds I replaced the battery cable. Ran cables to the transmission and ran it to the front of the car. Needed to order more cable ends so the front isn't connected yet. With the little bit that's there I gained a volt at idle. I was getting a little over 13 volts at idle.

I went with 2 gauge welding cable



Dave B.

What bushings did you use as replacement? I want to get these changed out this winter, but debating between Poly or rubber bushings.

[WHO1DMC]

What bushings did you use as replacement? I want to get these changed out this winter, but debating between Poly or rubber bushings.

I went with the rubber ones for peace of mind. Are poly trailing arm bushings worth the price? I didn't want to take the chance.



David B.

[Nate88]

I went with the rubber ones for peace of mind. Are poly trailing arm bushings worth the price? I didn't want to take the chance.



David B.

Thanks for the reply. Are the poly bushings "bad" or have a tendency to fail? I always thought that the Poly option for suspensions was the "better" option.

[ssdelorean]

Thanks for the reply. Are the poly bushings "bad" or have a tendency to fail? I always thought that the Poly option for suspensions was the "better" option.

Not that they are all "bad" but they tend to be a bit more of a harsher feel. This thread (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17998-Exploded-Suspension-Polyurethane-Bushings) mentions that harsher feel and brings up concern of a "bad batch" of bushings that are out there.

[82DMC12]

Last night I repeated the "jar test" of my fuel injectors to decide if I should replace one of them or not. A couple days ago, #4 seemed to have a slightly off pattern, cocked to one side but still atomizing with no drippage. My plan was to swap that injector with #3 so that I could replace the injector a lot easier later if I decide to do so once the car is running again. While I had #3 and #4 out, I sprayed some more carb cleaner into them and blew them out a few times with compressed air (rubber nozzle on gun). I installed them in the swapped positions and then jumped the fuel pump again. Confirmed no drips and then ensured they are all spraying simultaneously when tapping the air meter plate. Seems like #3 and #4 were partially full of air so I pushed harder on the plate (about 1/2 way) until the injectors were singing and after a few seconds they evened out. A few more taps on the plate to confirm synchronicity and it looks like the former #4 is now working normally again. Must have blasted a bit of crap out of it! Nice. They all look really good so I ran a volume test for one minute and I can't tell a volume difference in any of the six mason jars. At least not enough to bother putting into a graduated cylinder. I think I'm ready to finish buttoning this car back up!

Hey by the way - how do you add photos so they appear larger and not just a thumbnail? I'm using the "manage attachments" function. And sometimes my portrait-oriented photos are appearing as landscape. How do you fix this?

66991

[Ron]

Last night I repeated the "jar test" of my fuel injectors to decide if I should replace one of them or not. A couple days ago, #4 seemed to have a slightly off pattern, cocked to one side but still atomizing with no drippage. My plan was to swap that injector with #3 so that I could replace the injector a lot easier later if I decide to do so once the car is running again. While I had #3 and #4 out, I sprayed some more carb cleaner into them and blew them out a few times with compressed air (rubber nozzle on gun). I installed them in the swapped positions and then jumped the fuel pump again. Confirmed no drips and then ensured they are all spraying simultaneously when tapping the air meter plate. Seems like #3 and #4 were partially full of air so I pushed harder on the plate (about 1/2 way) until the injectors were singing and after a few seconds they evened out. A few more taps on the plate to confirm synchronicity and it looks like the former #4 is now working normally again. Must have blasted a bit of crap out of it! Nice. They all look really good so I ran a volume test for one minute and I can't tell a volume difference in any of the six mason jars. At least not enough to bother putting into a graduated cylinder. I think I'm ready to finish buttoning this car back up!

Hey by the way - how do you add photos so they appear larger and not just a thumbnail? I'm using the "manage attachments" function. And sometimes my portrait-oriented photos are appearing as landscape. How do you fix this?

66991Since the carb cleaner seemed to do some good, I'd dump some quality injector cleaner in the tank.

As for the pic display size- While still in the editor, double click the image and a menu will pop up giving you size options.
I don't know of any orientation problems, except rotation which is caused by pics with EXIF data (apple etc.)...vBulletin doesn't use it. The solution is to make sure they are "correct" before uploading.
(PM me if you need more help.)

P.S. BEAUTIFUL pics, btw!

[Helirich]

I bought mine years ago from the original designer. IIRC it was a prototype and not a production brace that DMCMW sold but it's been so long, I can't remember for sure. I'm sure whichever one you get will be fine. They all do the same thing. Personally I like the one design that is flat and does not require the carpet to be cut.

I just installed the DGo one. Easy enough. Probably drive it tomorrow. On this one the bolts are long and go through the rod end, a stand off bushing and then into the tower. Is that how yours is? Seems like the bushing should have a bolt out one end and a threaded hole on the other. That way, you would not be removing the strut bolts when removing the brace. (At least, in my mind that's how it should work)


Since the carb cleaner seemed to do some good, I'd dump some quality injector cleaner in the tank.!

On this subject, I saw a Utube video where the guy said to flush the injectors backwards with injector cleaner. He said that each injector has a filter in it. Can anyone confirm this?

[iflights]

Replaced my 3 year old Interstate MT78 battery with an AC Delco maintenance free 78. Symptoms were a sudden appearance of a fast drain on the battery when sitting in the garage.

Measured it and found it was only a 24ma standby draw, which is within expected conditions, and the battery would drop from 100% charge to a 71% charge within a day of non-usage.

New battery has kept itself at 100% charge for 3 days now under same conditions.

Feeling confident the cold winters likely killed the battery.

[82DMC12]

It's always a good day when your engine starts on the first turn after having it open for a month! Nearly done with this project with was originally just a sudden hot start problem but turned into a "while I'm in there" job with some admittedly needed updates after 40 years. I've had this car for almost 21 years so it's like I'm on the second restoration now....

* new Delphi fuel pump system from DPI
* 13 line fuel set from DPI
* fuel accumulator and new high pressure flex lines and clamps
* fuel filter
* clean fuel injectors, new boots
* NGK spark plugs
* valve lash check, new valve cover gaskets and hylomar
* W-pipe hylomar sealing
* additional alternator grounding
* replaced nearly every piece of hardware I removed during the project
* a few other little clean-up and wire-routing projects

Thanks to Josh at DPI and the team at DMC Midwest for the parts and support!


https://imgur.com/o3xy61w

[Rich]

Hey by the way - how do you add photos so they appear larger and not just a thumbnail? I'm using the "manage attachments" function. And sometimes my portrait-oriented photos are appearing as landscape. How do you fix this?


Instructions for inserting photos (not thumbnails) directly into a post on this forum are posted here (http://dmctalk.org/faq.php?faq=vb3_reading_posting#faq_vb3_attachment s).

Scroll up or down to find the blue header topic Attachments and Images.

Then look at the Add Image section and find the Album (?) link to open the album instructions. I use the BB code to get images showing 'full size'.


All members who have access to your album images can comment on them, in a similar way to Visitor Messages (more info). You can delete any image comments from your albums....

When you have uploaded a photo, you can place it in your posts by using the BB code text that is displayed below the image when you view it at full size.

[Ron]

For inserting pics into posts, check out this link (post 6):
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?16323-Photos

[WHO1DMC]

Replaced the original TABs, bushings and started a ground upgrade. The TABs you can barely tell that there bent. OK there's only a little over 16000 miles on the OD.

For the gounds I replaced the battery cable. Ran cables to the transmission and ran it to the front of the car. Needed to order more cable ends so the front isn't connected yet. With the little bit that's there I gained a volt at idle. I was getting a little over 13 volts at idle.

I went with 2 gauge welding cable



Dave B.

Finished ground upgrades. I ran a ground from the front to the trailing arm bracket. From bracket to transmission other side of transmission to the battery trailing arm bracket. New battery cable. Than a cable from bulkhead connection to transmission.
Car seems to idle a little better and a gain of about 1 1/2 volts interior at idle. Definitely worth the effort! The battery cable definitely had a lot of deep corrosion on both ends.

Planning on redoing the power side and eliminating the old cable's. Later this year.

Dave B.

[82DMC12]

Finally wrapped up my fuel system update today. After doing a pressure/leak test earlier this week I found a tiny bit of seepage coming from between the fuel filter and the 90 elbow at the bottom. I decided to just order a new elbow rather than mess around with the 40 year old one which possibly has some damage to it. In fact I remember fuel leaks there being a problem like 15 years ago when I changed the filter. Got the new elbow this afternoon, applied a very thin coating of hylomar AF to the threads (my blue threadlocker had dried up.....) and installed. Jumped RPM relay to re-pressurize for 10 minutes under full pressure and carefully watched the fitting. No more leaks! This project is done!

67005

[ccurzio]

Replaced the door struts. This was long overdue, but there was no real point in fixing them until the car was running again. Now that it is, that's done.

[DARCOM]

Installed one of these from DMCH today.

[WHO1DMC]

Lost clutch hydraulics so it's time for the replacements. So this is a 40 year old clutch master cylinder. The slave will be coming soon.




Dave B.

[WHO1DMC]

Lost clutch hydraulics so it's time for the replacements. So this is a 40 year old clutch master cylinder. The slave will be coming soon.




Dave B.

Replaced the original clutch slave today. Tomorrow I will see if I have clutch.
Man what a pain in the neck!

Don't they just look wonderful!😁😁

Dave B.

[WHO1DMC]

Replaced the original clutch slave today. Tomorrow I will see if I have clutch.
Man what a pain in the neck!

Don't they just look wonderful!����

Dave B.

Took the car out for a test drive. So I have a fully functional clutch again!!! I'm so happy!!!



Dave B.

[Ron]

:burnout:

[iflights]

After seeing Luke's thread a week or so ago about losing his water-alt V belt mid-trip, I replaced both of my V belts as I only knew they were at least 5 years old at this point.

Neither looked old or worn...but it is a small investment for piece-of-mind.

[Helirich]

After seeing Luke's thread a week or so ago about losing his water-alt V belt mid-trip, I replaced both of my V belts as I only knew they were at least 5 years old at this point.

Neither looked old or worn...but it is a small investment for piece-of-mind.

I would throw the old ones in the trunk. They could get you out of a bind in a pinch. (Unless you have a new set allready in the trunk)

[FABombjoy]

I would throw the old ones in the trunk. They could get you out of a bind in a pinch. (Unless you have a new set allready in the trunk)
That's what I'm doing LOL. Have two old spare belts in the jack storage area now, plus a new $3 just-in-case AC belt.

I also built an improvised WP/ALT belt quick changer using an off the shelf universal $15 heim tensioner & and old pinball machine part (a chunk of a stainless lockdown bar)

Now I'm working on a top-side AC belt tensioner using some Jeep parts. The original bottom side tensioner bolt mechansim is gone, had to be hacksawed off. "Turbo car problems"

[iflights]

That's what I'm doing LOL. Have two old spare belts in the jack storage area now, plus a new $3 just-in-case AC belt.

I also built an improvised WP/ALT belt quick changer using an off the shelf universal $15 heim tensioner & and old pinball machine part (a chunk of a stainless lockdown bar)

Now I'm working on a top-side AC belt tensioner using some Jeep parts. The original bottom side tensioner bolt mechansim is gone, had to be hacksawed off. "Turbo car problems"

Old belts already stashed in the bonnet. I've wrote down all the tools I used; socket and wrench sizes to build a travel tool kit especially for this task. I already had the DriveStainless tensioner on the car from my Alt replacement 2 years ago.

[FABombjoy]

I run a standard single 2" ear GM alt rather than the Saturn/Cadillac 2-ear design, so had to make something custom. The Drive Stainless tensioner wasn't quite in the right position to work with this case style.

https://imgur.com/5WYk1bR

Super easy access and a single adjustable wrench is all that's needed. Loosen alternator ear lock nut, loosen tensioner lock nut, spin tensioner, remove belt.

(it's time to repaint that muffler bracket)

[MacStainless]

Yesterday I replaced the washer fluid nozzle. It works but I will need to figure out how to adjust its aim. It's.... inaccurate. 😆

I also reseated the connector to the hazard switch. I apparently dislodged it when rebuilding my mode switch, which intermittently cut out my turn signal. Luckily I was able to get my hand back there to do this instead of spending 3-hours removing the center console again.

[TheStoot]

After coming home from a car show I figured I'd check under the car to see how everything was doing since I had been on a few longer trips recently. I found the passenger side steering rack boot torn off completely at the first rib closest to the tie rod end. I had replaced the driver side over the past winter when I had found that one to be torn. I had purchased the kit from Delorean Go so I already had the boot for the passenger side ready to go. Swapped the boots in about 15 minutes and called it a day!

[MrChocky]

Finally got around to installing the DM dome light dimmer relay. This was a bit of a challenge - you have to remove all the relays access pins, and on my car the purple wire
was bound up really tight with the bundle - who ever installed the wiring did quite the job. I ended up splicing on the left side instead.

Anyway, this was worthwhile to check all the connections and sockets and fuses, and all working OK. The passenger side door plunger is inoperative, which
I had forgotten about, and will need to check, but driver side, the lights correctly dim with LEDs after 20 seconds.

I've got DPI fans coming today, so that's the next big job. I don't really recommend working on 2 cars at once, but needs must.

[MacStainless]

The Summer of 5591's long-deferred work is finally over. Good lord I have an 8-page long invoice from my mechanic with all the work done for the past 4 months along with a tab to match. But... she's what I call "road reliable" where I feel confident I won't get stranded. Today was the final piece: getting DeloreanGo's brake master cylinder installed. Basically my entire brake system has been re-done minus the actual calipers themselves (I had them rebuilt w/ the DMCH kit), the A/C system completely emptied & drained then filled with 134, and re-grounding the entire car's electrical.

So this may not be what "I" did to my car, but it's what's been needed to be done by hands much more qualified than mine. I'm glad to get it back in time to enjoy the tail end of the season. Now to put some miles on her!

[Lwanmtr]

Hehe yeah, I'm getting close to hauling mine up to Toby to do the work I'm not at all comfortable or qualified to do...and will prolly have an invoice at least that long...lol

[MacStainless]

I get that. I'm smart enough to know that I'm *JUST* dangerous to get myself in trouble, so I try to do only minor things myself. My car literally went from "oh this has a coolant leak needing to be fixed" to "it will not start at all" literally over the course of sitting in one spot over two days. Now looking over the list of what was done (and the many phone calls my mechanic made to update me on a weekly basis) I know for sure I would've been beyond in over my head if I even tried any of what was needed. I always say you pay in time or money. I chose money so I can have a reliable D.

[Lwanmtr]

Mine has yet to travel more than 4 miles under its own power since I got it...and it needs alotta work to suspension, engine, electrical, which I know I'd bjork up somehow.

[iflights]

Installed Dave McKeen's Idle ECU microprocessor replacement. Works perfectly as you would expect from anything Dave produces. Purchased it primarily for the AC bump feature to compensate when I'm in traffic like I was several weeks ago.

Several helpful threads on the evolution of this item here in the forum.

[Jonathan]

Reached a little movie mileage milestone last night on the way home...

67162

[Helirich]

Reached a little movie mileage milestone last night on the way home...

67162

Explain?

[Ron]

Reached a little movie mileage milestone last night on the way home...

67162Gotta' watch those sharp right turns!

[Mark D]

Explain?

https://www.moviemistakes.com/picture9620

[82DMC12]

I should be updating this thread more often, because it's more like "what have I done in the last month". Or I should start my own build thread.

Anyway 11596 is getting a 40-year makeover. Major updates to fuel system, suspension, brakes, basically anything that touches the frame. Long term goal is to remove the frame for some repair and possibly swap in an already-restored frame I have in storage. Short term goal is to overhaul as much as possible right now, before I remove the frame, so that when that day finally comes, I'm transferring clean, restored parts over rather than going all the BS I'm currently dealing with LOL. I hope it will reduce the down time, reducing frame swap time to a couple weeks rather than months.

So what did I get into over the last six weeks?

1. Replace fuel pump and in-tank parts with DPI Delphi pump system
2. New fuel accumulator
3. Replaced every flexible fuel line on the car with DPI 13-hose kit and other bits around the accumulator with new high pressure line
4. New spark plugs (NGK)
5. Check valve lash, new valve cover gaskets
6. Drilled out and tapped a couple of manifold bolts that broke off many years ago to restore original ground wire connection locations
7. Cleaned injectors, new boots
8. Install DPI rear coilovers. Found my rear shocks (Monroe) were basically junk that I could push in with my hands. See ya!
9. Completely tore down the front suspension down to the frame. I had good alignment and good bushings but everything here was very dirty, getting rusty, ball joint boots cracked, generally functional but looked scary. No idea on age of ball joints. Time for a total overhaul.

Front suspension work is currently in progress and almost ready to reassemble. I turned over my roll bar, front hubs, knuckles, upper wishbones, brake shields, and other brackets etc to painterdave72 who is able to sandblast and paint or powder coat at his work. Looking forward to getting these back next week. I got the old bushings and bearings pushed out by a machine shop near my house with no issue. I'm installing poly bushings in the wishbones and Superflex poly bushings in the LCA-to-sway bar mount. I bought the DPI Spec Suspension with front coilovers, aluminum LCA's, new lower ball joints, caster limiting arms, and all mounting hardware. New brackets and isolators for the front frame extension-to-ARB mounts. New upper wishbone pivot bolts, too. Not one bolt or washer is being re-used, it's all new. Brake rotors turned and cleaned. I should have the last of my bits on Friday!

Next I found the rack and pinion, which is an older Grady rebuild, has a totally-destroyed passenger side tube bushing. I tore the rack down to the last ball bearing and was glad to find zero wear anywhere so I caught it in time. Almost done rebuilding this.

While the front suspension was out I tackled the washer fluid bottle area. When I got my D twenty years ago, the only thing that didn't work was the washer fluid. It was one of my first repair attempts but gave up because I couldn't get literally ANY of the bolts out that hold the black cover over the bottle and pump. They were all froze in the spinning rivnuts. Nowdays I have a lot more experience and tools so dremel-ed off the heads, dropped the tank, ground off the rivnuts, popped them out, and will be able to put new rivnuts in this weekend. I found the washer bottle has a crack so I'll be trying to plastic-weld it with painterdave72 this weekend. New washer pump incoming.

I'm also addressing some cracked and peeling epoxy in the suspension frame area. I was able to remove most of the bad epoxy in only a couple hours using a needle scaler on my air compressor. Currently working to sand and prep the surface so I can cover in POR15 and Rustoleum top coat.

So yeah.... just a few things going on! After the front is done I'll enjoy the car for a while and then this fall I'll tear down the rear suspension for a similar treatment (also install adjustible top links so I can correct my uneven inner tire wear).

[82DMC12]

Everything about the washer fluid system on this car sucks.

When I first got my DeLorean 20 years ago, the only thing that didn't work was the washer fluid. The tank leaked and the pump didn't seem to work. It still doesn't. But I'm getting close. I couldn't fix it before because every M5 screw going into the body that holds the black cover over the tank was spinning. Now I have my suspension out and it's a good time to tackle this since I have the best access I'll ever have.

1) Cut the heads off the screws with my dremel and a cut off wheel - DONE
2) Drop the black cover and pull the tank out - DONE
3) Grind off the rivnut heads with an angle grinder - DONE
4) Pop the rivnuts out / push them into the void in the underbody - DONE
5) Get a new washer pump - DONE
6) Install new rivnuts - DONE

I ordered an M5 rivnut installer from McMasterCarr and it really worked pretty well. A bit tough to hold everything in place steady while working upside down but I managed pretty well. Most of the rivnuts are in really tight, one of them might be slightly less tight, and I had to skip one because the underbody chipped away while trying to knock out the old rivnut.

67164

67163

Next I need to try to fix the crack in the washer tank. painterdave72 has a plastic welder at his work so we will give that a try first.

I also finished putting my steering rack back together - I can install it as soon as I'm done doing some POR15 on the front frame extension near the driver side mount area.

[Jonathan]

I finished the set earlier tonight. Like playing some movie mileage monopoly!!

671676716867166

[Victor]

Everything about the washer fluid system on this car sucks.

When I first got my DeLorean 20 years ago, the only thing that didn't work was the washer fluid. The tank leaked and the pump didn't seem to work. It still doesn't. But I'm getting close. I couldn't fix it before because every M5 screw going into the body that holds the black cover over the tank was spinning. Now I have my suspension out and it's a good time to tackle this since I have the best access I'll ever have.

1) Cut the heads off the screws with my dremel and a cut off wheel - DONE
2) Drop the black cover and pull the tank out - DONE
3) Grind off the rivnut heads with an angle grinder - DONE
4) Pop the rivnuts out / push them into the void in the underbody - DONE
5) Get a new washer pump - DONE
6) Install new rivnuts - DONE

I ordered an M5 rivnut installer from McMasterCarr and it really worked pretty well. A bit tough to hold everything in place steady while working upside down but I managed pretty well. Most of the rivnuts are in really tight, one of them might be slightly less tight, and I had to skip one because the underbody chipped away while trying to knock out the old rivnut.

67164

67163

Next I need to try to fix the crack in the washer tank. painterdave72 has a plastic welder at his work so we will give that a try first.

I also finished putting my steering rack back together - I can install it as soon as I'm done doing some POR15 on the front frame extension near the driver side mount area.

Great work!
You may try a product call ColdWeld for bonding plastic. I fixed a fuel tank with this two tubes mix compound at one point and it holded very well.

[DMCMW Dave]

Everything about the washer fluid system on this car sucks.

5) Get a new washer pump - DONE
6) Install new rivnuts - DONE



Another hint - while you have the cover off the washer reservoir, find the two tiny drain holes in the bottom of the cover. Drill them out to about 3/8", and add another one or two for good measure. That cover fills up with water and drowns the pump motor.

Also, there is really no reason for 8 or whatever bolts there are that hold that cover in place. Four is plenty.

[82DMC12]

Another hint - while you have the cover off the washer reservoir, find the two tiny drain holes in the bottom of the cover. Drill them out to about 3/8", and add another one or two for good measure. That cover fills up with water and drowns the pump motor.

Also, there is really no reason for 8 or whatever bolts there are that hold that cover in place. Four is plenty.

Thanks Dave, good advice. Suzy is sending me some new hose for the pump and then I'll put it back up later this week. Painterdave72 and I did some plastic-welding on the tank yesterday using Uni-weld sticks (black flat sticks). We tried a few different white and translucent round sticks but they weren't attaching to the tank. The black seemed to work pretty good and it appears to be watertight now.

Regarding the rest of my project, Dave powder coated some of my front suspension I'm reusing and will have the rest of it done later this week.

Tonight I'm brushing grey POR15 on my treated bare frame spots. Two coats on so far, might put one more on the thinner spots before I put Smoke Grey top coat on. I might be up all night working on this!

67173

67174

[DMCMW Dave]

Thanks Dave, good advice. Suzy is sending me some new hose for the pump and then I'll put it back up later this week. Painterdave72 and I did some plastic-welding on the tank yesterday using Uni-weld sticks (black flat sticks). We tried a few different white and translucent round sticks but they weren't attaching to the tank. The black seemed to work pretty good and it appears to be watertight now.
]

Good luck on plastic-welding the tank, I'm not sure I ever seen it work. That stuff is really a pain to work with and nothing seems to stick to it.

[FABombjoy]

Also, there is really no reason for 8 or whatever bolts there are that hold that cover in place. Four is plenty.
This is another place place where nylon screws are a useful replacement for the OEM bolts. I just R&R'd my washer tank this summer, replaced the corner fasteners with bolts but used nylon screws for the rest. I use them on the trunk access panels too - they'll never bind to the rivnuts and do a great job holding the panels in place.

[82DMC12]

This is another place place where nylon screws are a useful replacement for the OEM bolts. I just R&R'd my washer tank this summer, replaced the corner fasteners with bolts but used nylon screws for the rest. I use them on the trunk access panels too - they'll never bind to the rivnuts and do a great job holding the panels in place.

Is there supposed to be some kind of seal or foam between the underbody and the black plastic cover? I can't tell if whatever residue there is came from the factory or if a PO did it.

[MrChocky]

I hosed down the engine bay for the first time, to try and get rid of the accumulated dust. Probably not an ideal solution, but it had to be done, and I was fully expecting potential electrical problems until it all dried out.

Low and behold, the oil light came on dimly; I guess some kind of short for the oil sender. All clear this morning.

[Helirich]

Drove 500 miles today. I'm at a hotel and have another 300 tomorrow. All good except my speedometer quite. I'm wondering if it's the infamous "angle drive".is there any quick check I can do in the hotel parking Lot? (I have some tools)

[82DMC12]

Drove 500 miles today. I'm at a hotel and have another 300 tomorrow. All good except my speedometer quite. I'm wondering if it's the infamous "angle drive".is there any quick check I can do in the hotel parking Lot? (I have some tools)Not much you can do unless you can get the car off the ground. You could try disconnecting the angle drive cable from the lambda counter and see if the square wire inside is spinning, but I imagine that would be extremely difficult to do while you are driving!

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[Helirich]

Not much you can do unless you can get the car off the ground. You could try disconnecting the angle drive cable from the lambda counter and see if the square wire inside is spinning, but I imagine that would be extremely difficult to do while you are driving!

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Finally got to look at it. The angle drive is broke. Not sure what holds it there at all. The housing is definitely cracked right through. The cable is not in the clip. It will have to wait till I get home.

[WHO1DMC]

I'm in the middle of replacing a steering column bushing.
Everyone seems to have there idea of how to drive that sucker home. So here is mine! With the help of hammer it went in easy. The bushing I used was from NW. I did use some RTV just because.



Dave B.

[ccurzio]

Had it towed. Again. :D

https://i.imgur.com/ufGy1Epl.jpg

[Rich]

Had it towed. Again. :D


Interesting photo there.

Please tell us you did not have it towed backward on that flatbed or that you first strapped the sunshade down if you did. Or that it was a local (low speed) tow.

Extra credit if you tell us why it needed a tow?

[ccurzio]

Interesting photo there.

Please tell us you did not have it towed backward on that flatbed or that you first strapped the sunshade down if you did. Or that it was a local (low speed) tow.

Extra credit if you tell us why it needed a tow?

I'd have been worried otherwise, but it was a local tow. All the interstate driving was brief and in heavy traffic, then all side roads from there. ~15 miles total. Didn't want to keep driving at high (and eventually pegged) temps.

Car is overheating and pouring smoke out of the back. The coolant is boiling out of the overflow tank. The fans aren't kicking on, so it's either the fans themselves or their connection that failed, or the relay/fuse.

[Helirich]

I'd have been worried otherwise, but it was a local tow. All the interstate driving was brief and in heavy traffic, then all side roads from there. ~15 miles total. Didn't want to keep driving at high (and eventually pegged) temps.

Car is overheating and pouring smoke out of the back. The coolant is boiling out of the overflow tank. The fans aren't kicking on, so it's either the fans themselves or their connection that failed, or the relay/fuse.

You know you can put a little jumper wire at the otterstat to make the fans come on? Is the radiator hot? If it is not, you're water pump or thermostat might be bad.

[ccurzio]

You know you can put a little jumper wire at the otterstat to make the fans come on? Is the radiator hot? If it is not, you're water pump or thermostat might be bad.

I didn't know about the wiring trick. Thanks for the heads-up.

I hadn't done any deep investigations into the radiator and such yet. Didn't even think about the water pump. That might make sense.

[Jonathan]

I didn't know about the wiring trick. Thanks for the heads-up.

I hadn't done any deep investigations into the radiator and such yet. Didn't even think about the water pump. That might make sense.

Chris,

A little too late for your recent overheat issue with the fans not coming on, but if you find yourself in similar circumstances, that wiring jumper is explained in the Rob Grady roadside troubleshooting guide. PDF file in linked thread you can use to keep it handy. An electronic copy or a printed one.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?9950-P-J-Grady-Emergency-Troubleshooting-Guide&p=188017&viewfull=1#post188017

[iflights]

Replaced sticky ISM with a new one and replaced 2 little tiny hoses coming from it. Didn't want to waste time on reinstalling original ISM after attempting a cleaning.
Replaced original ISM mount with SS version from DPI. Looks so much cleaner now. Arrived before my replacement ISM did...great shipping department at DPI.
Finally adjusted the curb idle screw after install of the Dave McKeen Microprocessor Idle ECU. Very responsive now...I think I'll keep this new ECU in place.
Learned to follow instructions...it is important.

[ccurzio]

Chris,

A little too late for your recent overheat issue with the fans not coming on, but if you find yourself in similar circumstances, that wiring jumper is explained in the Rob Grady roadside troubleshooting guide. PDF file in linked thread you can use to keep it handy. An electronic copy or a printed one.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?9950-P-J-Grady-Emergency-Troubleshooting-Guide&p=188017&viewfull=1#post188017

Thank you for this!

A little more investigating has shown that the water pump belt is just gone. Which also explains why I was suddenly getting the battery light on the dash, which I thought was a new unrelated problem possibly with the alternator.

[Helirich]

I didn't know about the wiring trick. Thanks for the heads-up.

I hadn't done any deep investigations into the radiator and such yet. Didn't even think about the water pump. That might make sense.

Another option is just turn the AC on. It bypasses the otterstat and powers up the fans.

Always carry extra belts.

[82DMC12]

It's been a couple of weeks since my last update on here, so here goes -

1) Front suspension is now completely reassembled but on my first drive I had quite a bit of brake pedal pulsation. I believe it's my pads, which I thought I could get away with not replacing right away, but that may have been dumb since I did have the rotors turned before reinstalling. I turned the rotors because I didn't want to risk ruining my new bearings when I do a brake overhaul later this year. Well, now I'm doing the brake overhaul right now. I pulled all the calipers off, tore everything down except the parking brake mechanism, and sent them out for cad plating. I think I'll spray them with Duplicolor Gloss Clear engine enamel when I get them back. I also sent out a few other brackets and other odds and ends to get plated at the same time.

2) Completely tore down the rear suspension. Every nut and washer will be replaced and all the pivot bolts are getting cleaned and plated. New trailing arm bushings. Finally get to install my D/S Toby Tab which never went in a decade ago because I couldn't get the old bolt out. Well now I have the trailing arm out and I'm determined to get the bolt extracted! It's currently soaking in acetone+ATF.

3) Dropped off my rear carriers with bearings and outer axles still attached at a machine shop. They are going to press out the bearings, replace them with new SKF bearings, and then reinstall the shafts using a shop press. Also bead-blast the carrier which I will probably also spray with the Gloss Clear.

4) Drive shafts are out and since I already rebuilt them 15 years ago, I am going to pop the end plates off and seal them with Hylomar AF since I see a bit of grease leakage from them. I sent the bolt spacers out to get plated and I am ordering a new hex-head bolt kit from DPI to make installation easier.

5) Replacing the yoke seals once again due to leakage. My yokes are already sleeves but there is seepage either around them or through the split pin. I'll replace the o-rings inside the output shaft and put new seals in with hylomar AF on the splines and on the outside of the seals where they press against the transmission casing. Maybe that will fix it. I know some people use RTV on the splines but Hylomar AF is pretty good and doesn't set so I won't be a bear to remove the yokes again later if needed.

6720567206672076720867209

[Michael]

Another option is just turn the AC on. It bypasses the otterstat and powers up the fans.

Always carry extra belts.

I can't remember 100% but I believe the oe configuration had the fans operate with the compressor. All the cycling and load was very taxing on the charge circuit and it was a common mod to wire the fans to the mode switch which kept them from cycling with the compressor.

[Helirich]

I can't remember 100% but I believe the oe configuration had the fans operate with the compressor. All the cycling and load was very taxing on the charge circuit and it was a common mod to wire the fans to the mode switch which kept them from cycling with the compressor.

That's the way mine was untill I got Dave's RPM relay. It keeps the fans on for awhile after the compressor shuts off. (Normally, It will cycle back on before the fans finally shut down.)

[Michael]

That's the way mine was untill I got Dave's RPM relay. It keeps the fans on for awhile after the compressor shuts off. (Normally, It will cycle back on before the fans finally shut down.)

I don't see how the RPM relay has anything whatsoever to do with fans. They have nothing in common. You may be confusing his RPM relay with a fan relay.

[Helirich]

I don't see how the RPM relay has anything whatsoever to do with fans. They have nothing in common. You may be confusing his RPM relay with a fan relay.

You're correct. I just looked on his site. The fan relay runs the fans for 20 seconds after power is not called for. I got his RPM relay also. It has some delay functions related to the fuel pump.

[Lwanmtr]

Today I actually got the car insured :)

[Helirich]

Today I actually got the car insured :)

How much did you insure it for? My company asked me what it was worth and I said $35,000. Now I wonder if I should have told them higher.

[Lwanmtr]

I valued mine at 35,000, which is what Toby recommended, I was going to go with 30 too.

[NJP548]

How much did you insure it for? My company asked me what it was worth and I said $35,000. Now I wonder if I should have told them higher.

Mine is currently valued at $45k, but I plan to raise that amount when I re-up next time. It seems that the value keeps going up and if I ever have to replace this car, I will need to pay out of pocket in addition to the $45k just to get a car in the same condition that I currently have. I'm insured through Grundy.

-Nick

[mhanch]

Yeah, im at 50k+ I actually took a look around and what a similar condition would cost and i'm really hosed if i need to replace.

[82DMC12]

Two days ago I removed my driver side trailing arm for restoration and to finally install my D/S Toby Tab I bought about 15 years ago. The bolt is incredibly stuck in the T/A so it's currently soaking in ATF+acetone. I might have to bring it to a machine shop to get the bolt out. We'll see.

Last night I removed my P/S trailing arm which already had a Toby Tab installed. I was shocked to find the locknut was fairly easy to turn off of the bolt - I need to check this stuff more often. The arm was not loose but certainly could have been eventually. I will probably double-nut it on reinstallation.

Anyway, the nut came off, bolt slid out, got the arm out of the way. Now to remove the T/A bracket because I'm replacing all this stuff. The rear 13mm bolt/nut came out OK. Note: the hole in the frame is also threaded, it is NOT a hollow tube!!).

The front was a lot tighter. For some reason I had a really tough time getting a wrench onto the nut, probably due to clearance issues with the frame sticking out (the part where it's slightly bent) as well as the shift levers. I thought maybe the locknut was stuck onto the welded nut so I put a ratchet on the bolt head and it actually unscrewed a few times before the head snapped off , leaving about 1/4" of shank remaining, frozen in the frame. Things got very scary as I slowly ran out of options to move the nut due to extremely poor access. I briefly considered cutting a hole in the frame so I could get a socket on the nut, squared-up, but finally gave it one last shot with a stubby 13mm (I almost never use stubbys, but damn, when you need them... YOU NEED THEM) coming from the outside/ TA side of the frame, with another wrench linked to it for extra leverage. Now the nut was moving and turning the shank out, but the shank was too long to get the nut and shank out of the frame. I ended up using my angle grinder to cut the shank off flush with the frame (about 2mm of clearance to spare to get the grinder in at the right angle), then that gave me just enough room to turn the nut and shank out. Wow - could have been another crisis. This took all evening but I was relieved to get it out - popped a beer in celebration (Boulevard Coffee stout)

On the plus side, now I have removed every single bolt that touches the frame except for the engine mounts so HOPEFULLY no more broken bolt bullshit in the future...... RIGHT?!?

[Jonathan]

Replaced sticky ISM with a new one and replaced 2 little tiny hoses coming from it. Didn't want to waste time on reinstalling original ISM after attempting a cleaning.
Replaced original ISM mount with SS version from DPI. Looks so much cleaner now. Arrived before my replacement ISM did...great shipping department at DPI.
Finally adjusted the curb idle screw after install of the Dave McKeen Microprocessor Idle ECU. Very responsive now...I think I'll keep this new ECU in place.
Learned to follow instructions...it is important.

I saw this comment the other day and wanted to ask you or anyone else for that matter if they have feedback on these new, replacement idle speed motors? Both Houston and DeLoGO are selling new ones and the only thing it mentions in terms of direct replacement or alterations needed is that the new ones are skinnier and so you need to make up for that space inside the bracket with padding of some kind to keep it snug.

Any other adjustments needed to the air or fuel system or do you just plop it in, hook it up and good to go?

[MrChocky]

I saw this comment the other day and wanted to ask you or anyone else for that matter if they have feedback on these new, replacement idle speed motors? Both Houston and DeLoGO are selling new ones and the only thing it mentions in terms of direct replacement or alterations needed is that the new ones are skinnier and so you need to make up for that space inside the bracket with padding of some kind to keep it snug.

Any other adjustments needed to the air or fuel system or do you just plop it in, hook it up and good to go?

I have it. It did come with a skinny rubber strip, but it's far too small - *that* proved instead to be perfect for my loose frequency valve.
I have some rubber hose keeping it in place, but it's far from satisfactory.

Otherwise, the ISM is pretty boring, just goes in same as the other one.

[iflights]

I saw this comment the other day and wanted to ask you or anyone else for that matter if they have feedback on these new, replacement idle speed motors? Both Houston and DeLoGO are selling new ones and the only thing it mentions in terms of direct replacement or alterations needed is that the new ones are skinnier and so you need to make up for that space inside the bracket with padding of some kind to keep it snug.

Any other adjustments needed to the air or fuel system or do you just plop it in, hook it up and good to go?

I purchased the DeLoGo model. It was recommended by Dave McKeen as I was having some challenges getting idle under control with his ECU.

Because I changed my idle speed to 825 I needed to adjust curb idle, but no air or fuel mixture changes required.

The DGO version came with an adhesive spacer strip that goes around the smaller circumference motor. It was able to fit nicely in the bracket with the spacer strip.

[82DMC12]

Steady progress on my suspension overhaul. I had bad brake pedal pulsation after installing my freshly-turned front rotors a couple weeks ago. I decided to do a full brake system rebuild at that point so I took my rear brakes apart and brought my rear rotors along with my front rotors to an actual machine shop to get the runout checked. This place confirmed one of the front rotors was not turned straight, they figure the first place I went to didn't put it on the lathe correctly or the mating surface was dirty. They bead blasted the rotors and gave them a good turn, so I hope I'm good to go now.

Same machine shop took my dirty rear carriers with outer drive shaft and old bearings in them, blasted and degreased them, pressed in new SKF bearings, and pressed in the drive shafts. I'm going to leave them bare metal but I'll spray some Duplicolor Clear ceramic engine enamel on them so they spray off easily when I want to clean them in the future.

When I picked this stuff up, I gave them my trailing arms because I still have a T/A bolt stuck in one of them and I need them to extract it for me. I have new Toby Tabs to use on re-installation. The machine shop has a huge oven so they'll bake the old epoxy off and then shot blast the metal so I can get them either powder coated or maybe just POR15, haven't quite decided yet.

I also dropped off my rear lower links with painterdave who is going to powder coat them. So, at this point, I'm just waiting for my calipers to come back from the plating service as well as a few more bits of hardware from various vendors.

67221

67222

67223

67224

[Helirich]

I know this is Micheal's department. It gave me a chuckle.

67228

[Michael]

I know this is Micheal's department. It gave me a chuckle.

67228

My humor is on a much higher level. This belongs in DeLorean Fanatics.

[82DMC12]

Just a little more progress on my rear chassis restoration.

Trailing arms went to the machine shop to get baked clean and remove the stuck T/A bolt. They got it out without a lot of drama. I took them home and did the POR15 degrease/rinse/metal prep/rinse/dry dance and then gave them two coats of Grey POR15, inside and out, followed by a top coat of Rustoluem Smoke Grey on the outside-only. They look pretty good!

Last weekend I installed the new SS trailing arm reinforcement brackets. New hardware for the attachment bolts/nuts/washers and polished the passenger side ground that attaches to this point. Interesting to note that the parts manual does not show the nylock nuts that go inside the frame against the welded-on nuts. In fact the supplied bolts I ordered from DMC are too short to put nuts on, but Mike says no worries so I'll leave them be. Just another parts book vs actual parts discrepancy!

While I was in there with nothing else to really do, I removed my transmission mounts so I can have painterdave powder coat them for me. After blasting them he found both of them had small cracks so it's a good thing I decided to get them cleaned up.

I'm also waiting on some brake parts so while my master cylinder is out, now is a good time to get the booster and bracket refinished. I don't know how it is on an automatic, but for a MT you have to disconnect the clutch cylinder from the firewall so you can move it out of the way to get the bracket and booster out. No need to lose any clutch fluid - there's enough play to move it to the side and maneuver the brake stuff out. It was very difficult to get the clutch cylinder bolts out solo - I had to ask my wife to use the ratchet while I held the bolt in place with an open-end wrench from inside the car. I see the parts book shows the bolts going into the car from the outside so the nuts would be in the interior. Mine were reversed, I guess I did that when I changed the cylinder a few years back. I'll put it back together "correctly" and see if that helps so I can get a socket on the nut inside instead of the clearance issues I found with the bolt head inside.

Basically just twiddling my thumbs until I get all my brake stuff back from plating and a few things from DPI. Man I can't wait to put all this back together....

67247

67248

67249

67250

[steve]

Is that a crack I see in the 3rd Pic?
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=67249

[82DMC12]

Is that a crack I see in the 3rd Pic?
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=67249

It is. That's the transmission mount section that attaches to the transmission casing. Both of mine had cracks in them - they are getting welded and then powder coated as we speak. I guess it's a fairly common thing. I'm glad it was caught now rather than before a failure. And here I was almost too lazy to pull them out!

[WHO1DMC]

Took the old girl out for the last drive of the season. So sad to put her away.😭 I wasn't the only one out with there classic, so great minds think alike. Only a few miles away from turning 18K. I just had to get other things ready for winter.🤬




Dave B.

[82DMC12]

Another update from 11596. Rear suspension rebuild is going pretty well. It's so much easier putting together new, clean parts!

I sent out all of my brake parts, brackets, bolts, washers, every suspension bolt, and some other stuff like horn brackets, rear hubs, spacers, etc. to DMCMW to get cleaned and plated for a very reasonable charge. I received the parts back on Friday and started to reassemble right away. I put the calipers together loosely, and after masking the bores and putting some rolled up shop towel into each of the fluid ports, I sprayed them with three coats of Duplicolor Clear Engine Ceramic. I figure this will add an extra layer of protection so the plating doesn't wear off so fast and will make it easier to clean the calipers later.

I had big problems with the parking brakes because I had disassembled them for cleaning, not realizing that if you remove the slotted adjustment screw, you will totally screw up in the inside of the mechanism because the adjuster nut inside will pivot away from the guide hole. It took me a long time to get the mechanism apart because I couldn't get the clevis pin out (thank you air chisel) and the shallow slotted screw that holes the covers together was just spinning with the rivnut on the other side. I had to destroy the rivnut with my dremel and then decided to replace those parts with a countersunk phillips 10-24 screw, a nut with a tacked-on star washer, and then cut the end off with my grinder. I was able to adjust the cable enough to keep the mechanism from hitting the new nut and all looks good now.

Just waiting for my (hopefully last) parts order so I can build up the front calipers, install new o-rings and lip seals on the transmission output shafts, then bleed the brakes and torque the suspension pivots. Finish line is finally visible!

67320
67321
67322

[Mark D]

All those fresh zinc plated parts look like golden treasure.

Keep up the good work!

[82DMC12]

Another update from 11596.

Yesterday I "officially" (?) wrapped up my suspension and brake restoration project by getting a 4-wheel alignment. Trust me, my wife is glad to hear it. I just have a bit of fine-tuning to do on the QA-1 coil over rebound settings, trying to find a good balance front and rear. I've had soft shocks for years so stiffening things up (also with new bushings, a mix of poly and OEM) of course brings out the rattles that I'll be tracking down and trying to silence. Very happy with how the project has turned out though and I have so much more confidence driving the car now - no longer worrying if going over railroad tracks will finally collapse my LCA or breaking the T/A bolt I wasn't able to get out 20 years ago. LOL.

My brake pedal is a bit softer than I would like so perhaps I have a bit more work to do with bleeding the brakes. Pretty sure I didn't bench bleed the master cylinder very well / properly but with both 2-man bleeding and using a Motive power bleeder I'm not getting any air out of the lines so..... hmm. I bedded in the brakes (10 brake applications from 35 mph to 10 mph in a row, then 4 applications from 45 to 5 until I could smell hot brakes) and that went well. Parking brake is working great. Just tiny stuff now.

Sad to say I needed a tow truck last weekend because the pivot bolt for my shift linkage worked itself out of the frame. I have a Hervey bolt that is exactly 21 years old and now looking at it I suspect it is not long enough for the application. New bolt and all hardware including new bushings for the shift rods will be here today!

What's next? Not too much. My rheostat is junk and sometimes cuts out the cluster lights at night until I play with it again. Trying to decide if I should replace the rheostat or upgrade to LED binnacle lights which don't use the rheostat anyway. Thoughts? I like the warm color of the stock lamps and would want a similar look with LED if that's possible.

[82DMC12]

Forgot to mention - last weekend I polished my glass (doors and rear quarters) using my Griot's Garage G9 buffer and 3" backing plate with Griot's rayon glass polishing pads. I used blue painter tape to tape off all the trim and then polished the glass using Meguires Water Spot Remover cream. My glass has had bad water spots since before I got the car and nothing previously would remove. Not vinegar, not glass cleaner, not newspaper, not even 0000 steel wool with windex. I finally decided to try again and used some of this cream on a terry wax applicator pad and after aggressive scrubbing, I was shocked to see it was actually removing the water spots. But it was a lot of work for a small area. The DA and rayon pads worked really well - the method I found that worked best was to apply a thin later of the cream over the glass first using an extra pad, then set the DA on the glass and start it up at a moderately high speed - I think I used 6. Usually for paint correction "less is more" but in this case, you really need to keep the glass wet with the cream to get the best result. I spent about 90 minutes and got great results, with only some corners needing to be touched up by hand where the DA can't reach.

67480
67481

[andyo]

Over 8400 posts, and 1 million views, has to be the longest and most viewed thread i’ve ever seen anywhere!

Anyway, This is my first post in this thread.

I decided to try and reenforce my rear fascia against the inward sagging that they commonly have. I haven’t seen too much in the way of fixes for this so i thought it might be helpful to others looking for an idea.

I took a piece if aluminum right angle stock, about 1”x1”x3’. I drilled 1/4” holes in it down each side so the adhesive would have something more to grab onto. I placed the aluminum in one of the more right angled areas on the inside of the fascia and glued it down with some leftover pliogrip i had from my roof replacement. I clamped it down as shown in the photos, using a piece of round stock in between the board and the convex part of the fascia so the clamping wouldn’t deform the fascia. Having the deep jaw clamps is definitely is a must for this.


Before, note the sag.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211124/257b06049b675e658add12e542e143ec.jpg

After: much improved
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211124/b9db12df070a4d5a7923fd7b867aa5db.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211124/560f85165c2ab993eb42126d40bab23e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211124/1481e5fdade7cb4f057f0a24c15a15e9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211124/14b0f5f282059d8022e157ecd1b7011d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211124/9fc26e337e5f6a4d410e9643039cc328.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211124/69d7cb78106a56376a73648aee09d0bb.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Lwanmtr]

Very nice work. I had to try and straighten my rear fascia too...never got it quite straight though.

[Helirich]

Very nice work. I had to try and straighten my rear fascia too...never got it quite straight though.

Yes, very nice! Mine is not sagged where yours is. Mine is warped right where the engine cover closes. It makes it hard to open and close the cover. I think I need to do something similar.

[skill]

I finally got around to it. I cleaned out the fish tank and removed the old habitat!

J/k! If you have the e-fuel pump with black rubber feet... remove it from your fuel tank! That fuel pump... is no good. The fuel pump with rubber feet on the bottom disintegrate or sludge away and mix with your fuel. I highly recommend selecting a fuel pump with out the black nobby feet!

I hope everyone is well and miss you all! Stay safe and live the dream as always!

[Jpalatinus]

I had a set of after market wheels for a long time on 17167 and i had sold the original wheels off in the early 2000s for a song to a friend. One of my after market rims became damaged and irreplaceable so i decided to gef a set of original which has taken a while. I ended up finding 2 fronts at a junk yard and buying 2 oem rears from houston in the early grey style. I had them powder coated and then machined locally.67751

[82DMC12]

I had a set of after market wheels for a long time on 17167 and i had sold the original wheels off in the early 2000s for a song to a friend. One of my after market rims became damaged and irreplaceable so i decided to gef a set of original which has taken a while. I ended up finding 2 fronts at a junk yard and buying 2 oem rears from houston in the early grey style. I had them powder coated and then machined locally.67751What exactly does it mean to be "powder coated and then machined"? Educate me.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[Jpalatinus]

When the wheel spins on the lath to be machined so you have the machined finish on it the lath misses the low spots. So i had them powder coated first, machined to bare metal and then clear coated.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

What exactly does it mean to be "powder coated and then machined"? Educate me.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Just exactly that. Powdered coat the base silver then machine cut the face off the wheel and optionally follow up with clear powder coat.

[Michael]

I had a set of after market wheels for a long time on 17167 and i had sold the original wheels off in the early 2000s for a song to a friend. One of my after market rims became damaged and irreplaceable so i decided to gef a set of original which has taken a while. I ended up finding 2 fronts at a junk yard and buying 2 oem rears from houston in the early grey style. I had them powder coated and then machined locally.67751

Those look amazing!

[82DMC12]

When the wheel spins on the lath to be machined so you have the machined finish on it the lath misses the low spots. So i had them powder coated first, machined to bare metal and then clear coated.

Sent from my SM-N960U using TapatalkSo the inside of the spokes is powder coated but the face only is bare metal? Got a close up photo? Wouldn't the powder coat be prone to chipping on the edge?

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[Jpalatinus]

I dont know about the susceptibility to chipping, but i suspect the subsequent clear coat helps prevent that. The one thing that is less than ideal is the wheel cap does protrude about a half millimeter and the center face does have, almost like microbubbling. (The machinist reffered to it as off gassing during the casting process) you only notice it on really close inspection. I can get some real close ups when i get home from the holidays, if you are curious.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[Iznodmad]

Nice wheels Joe. Hard to find a place that will do more than the lip and the face of the turbines. Your place did the center too. Would love to know the name of the place that did those. I have some machined ones, but not the entire rim. Let me know. Thanks!

[Jpalatinus]

Wheel werks in salt lake city, ask for Mike. He will hook you up. I stumbled upon them and qas really impressed. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211231/7d12e15cc4e99ae305d7a060c4b37f4a.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[Michael]

My car has a top tier sound system (for 2006) including a Genesis Profile 5 amp hidden behind the parcel shelf. The only clue is a cutout for the fan.

67767

Today I added a back light on the stereo switched power.

67768
67769
67770

[Quinn]

I knew this day of reckoning would eventually come. My hood latch cable finally broke. I tried to fix the existing one before, but it was so frayed I could no longer thread it into the set screw. Anyway, based on a previous forum post, I decided the replace it with a bicycle brake cable. It worked out fantastic. There was actually enough material to make 2 hood cables. I even put a little solder on the end of the cable where I cut it, to prevent future fraying.

67894

67893

67892

67891

[82DMC12]

I knew this day of reckoning would eventually come. My hood latch cable finally broke. I tried to fix the existing one before, but it was so frayed I could no longer thread it into the set screw. Anyway, based on a previous forum post, I decided the replace it with a bicycle brake cable. It worked out fantastic. There was actually enough material to make 2 hood cables. I even put a little solder on the end of the cable where I cut it, to prevent future fraying.

67894

67893

67892

67891Looks great. Did you have a backup cable already installed so you weren't super screwed when the cable broke?

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[Quinn]

Looks great. Did you have a backup cable already installed so you weren't super screwed when the cable broke?

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

No backup cable, I prefer living life on the edge. Luckily, I was able to grab onto the frayed end of the cable with some pliers and pop the hood. Honestly, I don't understand the need for a backup cable. According to my calculations, the cable is most likely to break in one spot. That spot being the set screw under the dash. When it eventually breaks, there's still enough cable sticking out of the sleeve to grab with pliers. Maybe the ball end of the OEM cable broke on some people, and that's what started the backup cable craze. To be fair, the OEM cable that I removed from my car did look a lot weaker than the one I replaced it with, especially the ball end.

[82DMC12]

No backup cable, I prefer living life on the edge. Luckily, I was able to grab onto the frayed end of the cable with some pliers and pop the hood. Honestly, I don't understand the need for a backup cable. According to my calculations, the cable is most likely to break in one spot. That spot being the set screw under the dash. When it eventually breaks, there's still enough cable sticking out of the sleeve to grab with pliers. Maybe the ball end of the OEM cable broke on some people, and that's what started the backup cable craze. To be fair, the OEM cable that I removed from my car did look a lot weaker than the one I replaced it with, especially the ball end.Well I think the photos of people having to remove the hood from the headlight buckets is sufficient motivation to add a backup cable no matter how unlikely that scenario is. It costs almost nothing and would save you from an ocean of frustration.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[Michael]

So after adding a light to my amplifier fan, I noticed a speaker rattle coming from the right rear 4x10. I bought a pair of Pyle 150/300w 4x10's for the rear to replace the Eclipse 100w DMCH speakers. After installation, I had another issue. My JL Audio 8" sub was also a little buzzy and I found the foam suspension ring had torn. Hey this setup is 15+ years old now so I think I got good life out of it.

I then bought an Alpine S series to keep with the Alpine flow of the deck and cd changer. After all that, I got a little homesick for those vintage graphic equalizers of the 80's and the embedded "spectrum analyzers" that have long since gone so I found a cheap 20 channel display. After adding the required noise filters and completing the "soft install", I built a box, carpeted it, made a tinted screen to hide everything but the lights, and mounted it below the amp fan. (no room in the dash even for a small unit).

I was going to install it flush with the rear panel but the amp location would only allow me to offset it to one side and this way it's 100% reversible. Also allows me access to the different display mode controls (some not as flashy, some even more flashy). I also added a beat lamp to the sub. Nobody will see it but it will look cool at shows. Finished off the install with some black treated screws for the tinted analyzer lens cover and mounting plate. I was so mesmerized by the old Pyramid equalizer displays of the 80's. Now I can have that warm fuzzy retro magic back.

67977
67978
67979
67976
67975
67980
67974





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Id_jQ7sfzZ4

[Lwanmtr]

very cool Michael.

[DARCOM]

I miss spectrum analyzers, always tried to have one in the dash somewhere on my 80's-90's cars.

[Michael]

I miss spectrum analyzers, always tried to have one in the dash somewhere on my 80's-90's cars.

I wanted to put a slim eq/vu meter with sliders in above or below the head unit, but there just wasn't room in the console without major modification. I suppose I could have done a pop out screen stereo with an eq analyzer function built in but that defeats the purpose. It's not really 80s retro when it's on a lcd touch screen.

[JSzabo]

Over the weekend my son and I put in LED Headlights from Delorean Parts Northwest. They are really nice and look great. My son showing the highs.
68006

[82DMC12]

Over the weekend my son and I put in LED Headlights from Delorean Parts Northwest. They are really nice and look great. My son showing the highs.
68006

Looks great, this is definitely an upgrade that's on my list.

[iflights]

Over the weekend my son and I put in LED Headlights from Delorean Parts Northwest. They are really nice and look great. My son showing the highs.
68006

Ready to install these myself as soon as she comes out of hibernation. Looks good.

[82DMC12]

Ready to install these myself as soon as she comes out of hibernation. Looks good.

During hibernation is the best time to do upgrades!

[Lwanmtr]

I installed LED a while back...just have to get them adjusted to proper orientation.

[JSzabo]

I installed LED a while back...just have to get them adjusted to proper orientation.

Waiting for the weather to warmup so I can see if they need adjusted too.

[mhanch]

Oil Change today - in case anyone doesn't know K&N HP-2005 is a perfect match for the car.

Also finally ordered new Fuel lines. I figure 40 years is enough on the originals...

[Michael]

I decided that since I replaced my rear speakers and sub, I might as well do the dash speakers, (when tuning, I noticed I was overdriving the fronts often). They were not blown, but they couldn't keep up either.

Today my Blaupunkt's arrived and when I pulled the last of the DMCH performance sound package, I saw why the Apline 3.5's were crying. They were rated at 15w. Putting them on the business end of a 450w 4+1 amp was madness. The new ones are 70w RMS. Always better to have a little more speaker than a little more amp.

The new speakers really carry some much needed bass at the front and now I think I can call the stereo revamp (which started with replacing just two 4x10 rears), finished!

68066

68065

[Michael]

Our state got a new tag design this year.

I renewed mine online as always.

Space sare import ant.

68081
68082

[Alex Brooks]

Change my Manuel gear box oil and re installed my Craig’s radio I had rebuilt and blue tooth added

[Helirich]

Our state got a new tag design this year.

I renewed mine online as always.

Space sare import ant.

68081
68082

Every time I look at a pic of your car I see something I need to clean/paint on mine. I plan to stop looking.

[Michael]

Every time I look at a pic of your car I see something I need to clean/paint on mine. I plan to stop looking.

Every time I look at my car I see something I need to clean/paint. My wife says she wished I paid that much attention to her.

I said, when you look as awesome as my car I will.

Our divorce will be finalized by March.

[JBaker4981]

I've been in the process of mounting a few goodies over the last couple of days.

Most notably the DGo Air Scoops to give it that Legend Industries look. Sexy.

68092680936809468095

Also decided to go ahead and put my SS letters on the door sills that I have had for-ev-er.

[Michael]

I've been in the process of mounting a few goodies over the last couple of days.

Most notably the DGo Air Scoops to give it that Legend Industries look. Sexy.

68092680936809468095

Also decided to go ahead and put my SS letters on the door sills that I have had for-ev-er.

I love the look the scoops give the car. I don't regret putting them on my car. I love that everytime I look in the side mirror, I can catch a glimpse of them.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Went to replace the hose from the water pump to the otterstat pipe and the louver struts could not hold the louver up. Placed and order for the strut kit from Dgo. Propped up the louver and pulled the hose just letting the coolant drain into a pan. I also had bought the plug someone posted to remove the thermal time switch so I installed that. That plug is perfect even comes with a copper washer and two plugs in the package. The new formed silicone hose was a little tight pushing onto the pump so I put a little Permatex in the hose to lube it a little. Had to cut 4 inches off the end going to my otterstat pipe. Don't know if that pipe is longer than stock, it's the one with the screw in otterstat. Tightened the hose clamps to 40 inch lbs and filled with new 50/50 coolant.

Started the engine and let it heat up but I got nervous when the temp gauge hit the 1/4 mark and the otterstat pipe was still cold. The thermostat bleed spit out coolant when opened so I loosened the hose clamp on the otterstat pipe till it dripped a little and like magic the thermostat opened and the pipe was hot. Now I will do another runup once things cool down just to make sure all is good again.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Retest and thermostat opened just a hair below the 1/4 mark. Then you see the temp drop since it's pushing all the cold water from the radiator into the engine. Let it idle till the fans came on. Looks good to go.

By the way, my thermal time switch was not very tight at all when I removed it. So may want to give that a torque on your car if you never checked it. Mine had the red cardboard gasket on it.

[louielouie2000]

Spent the weekend installing a label kit, new floor mats, replacing rusty exterior fasteners, and continuing to deep clean the car. It's amazing how little details add up to make a big impact. Ordered a set of Hankook tires for the car this morning; they should arrive tomorrow. I'm going to have a mobile tire installer mount them (hopefully later this week).

[JBaker4981]

Spent the weekend installing a label kit, new floor mats, replacing rusty exterior fasteners, and continuing to deep clean the car. It's amazing how little details add up to make a big impact. Ordered a set of Hankook tires for the car this morning; they should arrive tomorrow. I'm going to have a mobile tire installer mount them (hopefully later this week).

Oh hell, you are back in!? Welcome back!

[louielouie2000]

Oh hell, you are back in!? Welcome back!

Thanks! It feels odd having one in the garage again. I purchased DeLorean #3 about a month ago, almost 20 years to the day from when I bought my first one. The car has extensive service records from DMC Texas & DMC Florida, so it runs and drives great. I've mainly been trying to figure out how far down the cosmetic rabbit hole to go with it. It's been fun chipping away at little things in the meantime.

[Alex Brooks]

Hella h1 high beams and hella H4 lows with led bulbs 6500k
Claimed total of 32,000 lumens seem very bright and very good cut off should not blind on coming traffic 6811568116

I really don’t know why this site post pictures upside down

[mhanch]

Replaced my fuel hoses with the DeloreanGo British set. Still need to do Supply/Return but the rest are complete. Tested and took for a big drive and it's all solid. No leaks.

68131

[AugustneverEnds]

Replaced the lower ball stud mounting brackets for the doors.68132

Initially the passenger side looked worse that the driver's (oddly) but after removing them it's clear how bent both were.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Got my set of DeLoreango struts today. Took less then one hour to install all six. Some were a little shorter and some longer than the Hervey struts I had in there for about 10 years. They all definitely take more force to close now. The doors and hood open all the way on their own. The sun shade may open all the way if I wait a long time but I push it up less then one more inch.

[Timeless]

Got my set of DeLoreango struts today. Took less then one hour to install all six. Some were a little shorter and some longer than the Hervey struts I had in there for about 10 years. They all definitely take more force to close now. The doors and hood open all the way on their own. The sun shade may open all the way if I wait a long time but I push it up less then one more inch.
Did you get the all silver or black units? Anyone with experience compare the 2?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Did you get the all silver or black units? Anyone with experience compare the 2?

I got the full set of black ($168 or something like that). By the way my sun shade is opening fully on it's own today. Must be they had to sit at the right angle overnight.

[seventy4burban]

So I haven't been active here for a while ...car has been sitting for a long while.....but that is about to change.

As for what did I do to my DeLorean today?

This.....to be followed by lots and lots of cleaning.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220225/33405c2c0837ba21cf2073c6fef3f9f6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220225/7d183c6d638fdee128bb10646186c0be.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220225/aabb7bb96ce0566570e91c38d00eba77.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220225/ec5c6750d195865b4c885f4f91778cd3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220225/9b00a0f6e812d220077c2541e2860503.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[mhanch]

My power antenna stopped working last summer so I decided to dig in and troubleshoot it today. I opened the electric compartment behind the driver's seat and began tracing wires. Found a green wire that had come loose from it's bullet connector. Plugged it back together and the antenna started working.

sometimes you get lucky.

[Stainless]

So I haven't been active here for a while ...car has been sitting for a long while.....but that is about to change.

As for what did I do to my DeLorean today?

This.....to be followed by lots and lots of cleaning.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220225/33405c2c0837ba21cf2073c6fef3f9f6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220225/7d183c6d638fdee128bb10646186c0be.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220225/aabb7bb96ce0566570e91c38d00eba77.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220225/ec5c6750d195865b4c885f4f91778cd3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220225/9b00a0f6e812d220077c2541e2860503.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Best of luck, my friend. You're where I was about 8 months ago. I'm getting ready to fire it back up for the first time soon. Fingers crossed that I didn't miss something important!

[81dmc]

Installed my Inconel TABs before I forget.

Installed a new stainless fuel return pipe.

Discarded the last asbestos shield on the car.


All of this was super easy with engine and trans out of the way…

[louielouie2000]

Had Hankook Kinergy tires installed about a week ago. I have to say, I was pretty dubious of them going in. I wasn’t nuts about the sidewall design and I’ve always run Michelins on my cars and motorcycles. However, I’ve really been impressed with the Hankooks. They are extremely smooth and quiet. Though I prefer a solid-surface/plain sidewall, they don’t look bad on the car in person. For those on the fence regarding these tires, I think you’ll be pleased if you chose to go with them.

Next on the list is seat covers. I’ve found an installer near my house but am still on the fence regarding which covers to go with, though.

[81dmc]

Yesterday I got all piston and Westwood liner assemblies together. Ready to drop in.


Next is cleaning block and polishing crank.

[81dmc]

Engine is assembled and timed. Valve and timing covers aren’t sealed on yet. Going to mount pan and prime oil system with drill before mounting timing cover.

[Michael]

Had Hankook Kinergy tires installed about a week ago. I have to say, I was pretty dubious of them going in. I wasn’t nuts about the sidewall design and I’ve always run Michelins on my cars and motorcycles. However, I’ve really been impressed with the Hankooks. They are extremely smooth and quiet. Though I prefer a solid-surface/plain sidewall, they don’t look bad on the car in person. For those on the fence regarding these tires, I think you’ll be pleased if you chose to go with them.

My thoughts exactly (even about Michelins..spent 600 bucks putting Michelins on my Honda Superhawk). I have had my Hankooks all year and they are great. Thing is if you are on oe matching tires, they are at least 10 years old by now, probably even older. The cheapest new tires will be far superior to the best old tires. That said, Hankooks are not a bad tire at all. For me, all I do in my DeLorean is drive it like an old man, so having a set of matching new tires is one of the best things you can do for your car.

[Quinn]

First, my AC started acting funny. Then, my heater stopped working. Finally, I could hear the fan running, but no air was blowing out the vents. So I reluctantly dug into the mode switch for a second time, after just rebuilding it less than 3 years ago. Turns out, the four little nubs on the back of the rubber piece had broken off, so the thing was just randomly spinning around whenever I'd use the switch. I used some weatherstrip glue to glue the rubber piece back in place. Everything seems to be working now. Of course I had to replace a couple of fuses that blew in the process of making the repair, because I got in a hurry and didn't disconnect the battery.

[L3V3L1]

Re-Installed my newly recovered binnacle. I am very happy with the way it came out. I paid my local upholstery guy 100 bucks to apply the DMCH recover kit.

[81dmc]

3.0 engine is complete minus intake manifold. Got valves adjusted again (just to be sure) and installed the rocker covers.

Also cleaned up auto trans (40 years of grease) and sucked the old fluid out.

The shift cable was found to be leaking where the outer sheath meets the metal ends. So to fix, I cleaned with brake clean, dabbed some Permatex RTV on the joint, and used marine grade heat shrink to finish the seal. Shouldn’t leak and didn’t cost me the $150 DMCH wants for an "improved" cable.

Now I just need to mate that engine/trans, and drop the combo in the car.

My car has been engineless since 2018 so I’m quite excited!

[81dmc]

Mated.

68217

[OZ DMC]

working behind the fuel distributor against the firewall think I may have disconnected the line that comes from the left side of the bulkhead (marked in red in the photo)
What does it do and where does it connect.

Many thanks
OzDMC

[Lenny]

I did the rarest of maintenance jobs. I pulled the battery and checked the levels. I know you won’t believe me without pictures so here you go68220

[AugustneverEnds]

working behind the fuel distributor against the firewall think I may have disconnected the line that comes from the left side of the bulkhead (marked in red in the photo)
What does it do and where does it connect.

Many thanks
OzDMC

That is a vacuum hose, connects to the hot water control valve, this thing https://store.delorean.com/hot-water-valve-aftermarket.html

[OZ DMC]

That is a vacuum hose, connects to the hot water control valve, this thing https://store.delorean.com/hot-water-valve-aftermarket.html

Thanks Nick for that response, cheers

[AugustneverEnds]

Happy to help!

[CyberBill]

Working on ripping the guts out of the DeLorean this week. :)

The goal is to remove the entire wiring harness and make room for the electronics from the Bolt for my EV conversion - Project Lightning. After the first day (yesterday) the seats are removed, the center console is removed, all wires are disconnected from the rear passenger side but still sitting in there, stereo and climate controls are removed, the driver's side knee pads and steering wheel and binnacle are removed, then I removed the pedal box. The brake booster mount has been removed, too.

After today, I've removed the passenger side knee-pad and disconnect the blower and stuff, and then remove the lambda ECU, idle speed ECU, and ignition ECU, and the brackets and wires behind the driver's seat. I removed the bungee cord and mesh, then the carpet, and then the little piece of wood in the middle of the parcel shelf. That allowed me to take all the wires from the cubbies behind the seat and pull them all out and into the driver's side where the seat usually is. What makes this a bit more complicated is that there are clearly a lot of modifications that have been done to the wiring harness like adding speaker wire all over the place and some sort of immobilizer wiring, so I did end up cutting a couple of those rather than removing the side panels to get at the speakers.

Under the hood I have to make room for a large battery box that interferes with the stock brake booster - and since I kind of hate the stock location of the pedals anyway, I'm going to replace them with the pedal "box" from the Bolt and shift the brake location to the driver's side quite a bit, and also I'll use the iBooster from the Bolt, which will (fingers crossed) fix all the issues at once. :) I'll definitely need to do something interesting for the Bolt's master cylinder - because it's rotated 90 degrees from the most optimal placement of the iBooster unit. I might also skip the Bolt's master cylinder and use the stock one from one of the other vehicles out there that uses a Gen1 iBooster and happens to be oriented more to my liking.

At the moment the only thing keeping the wiring harness in the car is the wires that run through the firewall along the driver's side to the front lights and stuff - which I didn't know how to remove. In looking it up this evening, it appears I can remove a box that contains the windshield washer fluid reservoir and probably get access to the harness from there and disconnect it and pull it through into the cabin. I may also remove the carpets and scrape off that foam padding on the parcel shelf, which smells terrible.

Once gutted, I'll be taking the body off the frame for a couple of hours to remove the remaining fuel lines, brake booster vacuum line that run between the body and frame, and get the shifter linkage out. I think from that point forward I will be doing a whole lot more fabricating and building and putting things together, rather than taking things apart, so it sort of feels like the beginning of a new chapter for the conversion.

[DMC-Ron]

Working on ripping the guts out of the DeLorean this week. :)

At the moment the only thing keeping the wiring harness in the car is the wires that run through the firewall along the driver's side to the front lights and stuff - which I didn't know how to remove. In looking it up this evening, it appears I can remove a box that contains the windshield washer fluid reservoir and probably get access to the harness from there and disconnect it and pull it through into the cabin. I may also remove the carpets and scrape off that foam padding on the parcel shelf, which smells terrible.


Bill,
There are several connectors on that front main harness. Don't know how they got it in there, and not sure if you can pull it back through the firewall. Photo is looking up into the washer reservoir with bucket removed and wiring pulled out.
Ron


6827368274

[mhanch]

Finally changed the gear oil in my Final Drive. The drain plug wasn't original and I had to find a 7mm square drive (it needs a 5/16 but I couldn't find that) to get it out. the fill plug was original 8mm. The nice bit is that the new drain plug was magnetic, so i cleaned the sludge off it, drained out the black crap oil and refilled with new oil. super easy once i had it open.

[CyberBill]

Bill,
There are several connectors on that front main harness. Don't know how they got it in there, and not sure if you can pull it back through the firewall. Photo is looking up into the washer reservoir with bucket removed and wiring pulled out.
Ron


The wiring harness diagram I found last night, but that is a nice picture to have of inside of the washer bottle area!!

The opening into the cabin is pretty large, so I think those connectors should all slide through without issue.

[CyberBill]

I wrapped up removal of the interior components tonight!

Removing the tub that contains the windshield washer fluid was a nightmare due to shenanigans by a previous owner. They used T nuts on both sides - inside and out - and then super long screws. This T-nuts bit into the plastic and ate it to crap and wouldn't come off, and then of course they covered the entire thing in RTV. Half the bolts had been replaced with slotted screws that were all rusted to hell, and I had to cut two of them off. It took me an hour to get the box off!!

After that it was easy, though. The fluid bottle slips right out, then there are 3 connectors that came off no problem. Then from the cabin I pulled the harness through. It got stuck near the end, but wiggling and pushing and pulling and moving it around, eventually it came out.

Once the harness was fully removed I pulled most of the carpets and then scraped off the foam from the parcel shelf. The only thing left in the car right now is the climate control blower and stuff, which I don't need to move for the time being.

Next step - remove the body from the frame and get the final fuel lines out of there!

[81dmc]

Adjusted the automatic differential lash the redneck way since I had to replace those output shaft nuts due to damage.

To lock the pinion, I pulled the governor and stuck a flat loaded screwdriver between the gearing and strapped it in place. Then using the drain hole, I was able to see the play of the ring gear. Used a dual indicator to visually ballpark it between .12mm and .25mm of play. As for bearing preload, I remember it was set tightly, then back off 1.5 teeth.

Hopefully all turns out well with that.

68276
68277
68278

[jerrysony]

Maybe it is more dumb question if the day, but anyone knows what this mini radiator is for? Can't find it on any reference page. Maybe it's an addon made by the p.o.? It's located on the very right back side.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220326/8753c815c842370ec5e9db3a5ebc49f9.jpg

Enviado desde mi SM-G996U1 mediante Tapatalk

[WHO1DMC]

Maybe it is more dumb question if the day, but anyone knows what this mini radiator is for? Can't find it on any reference page. Maybe it's an addon made by the p.o.? It's located on the very right back side.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220326/8753c815c842370ec5e9db3a5ebc49f9.jpg

Enviado desde mi SM-G996U1 mediante Tapatalk

It's not Delorean.
It's a aftermarket oil cooler. Could be for engine or automatic transmission oil.


Dave B.

[jerrysony]

It's not Delorean.
It's a aftermarket oil cooler. Could be for engine or automatic transmission oil.


Dave B.Thank you Dave. I'm guessing It's for the a.t. oil. Don't know if keep it or remove it, since it's leaking a little bit.

Enviado desde mi SM-G996U1 mediante Tapatalk

[OZ DMC]

working behind the fuel distributor against the firewall think I may have disconnected the line that comes from the left side of the bulkhead (marked in red in the photo)
What does it do and where does it connect.

Many thanks
OzDMC

Quickly got this issue sorted but then noticed the AC would not turn on at all. I checked all the fuses and the fan fail the jumper lines to find the fuses ver corroded one fuse clearly heat affected. Two questions 1) where do I look next to fix the AC switch on problem? and 2) what is the unused connector (circled in the photo) for?

May be I need the Dave McKeen Fan Fail and Fan Relay update.....
68285

[Bitsyncmaster]

Quickly got this issue sorted but then noticed the AC would not turn on at all. I checked all the fuses and the fan fail the jumper lines to find the fuses ver corroded one fuse clearly heat affected. Two questions 1) where do I look next to fix the AC switch on problem? and 2) what is the unused connector (circled in the photo) for?

May be I need the Dave McKeen Fan Fail and Fan Relay update.....
68285

That unused relay socket is for the "hot start relay". Not used normally in the DMC but I now sell one.

[Michael]

That unused relay socket is for the "hot start relay". Not used normally in the DMC but I now sell one.

I remember reading something about that harness. Was the same or similar harness used in the Porsche and did the Porsche have a hot start relay?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I remember reading something about that harness. Was the same or similar harness used in the Porsche and did the Porsche have a hot start relay?

I did have one owner find a VW hot start relay. Not sure where he got.

[Helirich]

That unused relay socket is for the "hot start relay". Not used normally in the DMC but I now sell one.

Could you explain what it does exactly? Did you just start making them. (I can’t remember what all I bought from you.) My car starts rough all the time when it’s hot. It always starts, but just runs rough a bit. I’m thinking accumulator.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Could you explain what it does exactly? Did you just start making them. (I can’t remember what all I bought from you.) My car starts rough all the time when it’s hot. It always starts, but just runs rough a bit. I’m thinking accumulator.

I have been selling them for a long time. A stock DMC fires the CSV when your cranking and the engine temp is below 95 deg.F. The CSV only gets powered when the starter is cranking.

My hot start relay will fire the CSV after one second of cranking at any engine temp. So I run my D without the thermal time switch and rely on my hot start relay to fire when needed. My car only needs the CSV after it has sat a week or more without running. It would also help a hot start problem but I don't experience that.

[mhanch]

Yes +1 on all of Dave's stuff.

Hot start relay + Fuel Relay = no starting problems.

Both Fan Relays together = no fan worries.

[OZ DMC]

That unused relay socket is for the "hot start relay". Not used normally in the DMC but I now sell one.

Thanks Dave for your reply and prompt response to my purchase order - outstanding service, thank you again

I remade and installed a new fused wire jumper on the Fan fail as it was brittle and corroded.
The car runs but the AC clutch will not engage when I turn the AC dial in any position.
This is only a recent thing and I have checked all the fuses.

Any suggestions to troubleshoot the AC start problem from anyone would be most welcome.

Cheers from the land DownUnder....

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks Dave for your reply and prompt response to my purchase order - outstanding service, thank you again

I remade and installed a new fused wire jumper on the Fan fail as it was brittle and corroded.
The car runs but the AC clutch will not engage when I turn the AC dial in any position.
This is only a recent thing and I have checked all the fuses.

Any suggestions to troubleshoot the AC start problem from anyone would be most welcome.

Cheers from the land DownUnder....

The AC clutch will not turn on if the pressure in the system is under 50 PSI. So a low charge or if it is to cold would result in no clutch operation. That is the most common problem but it could be electrical failures. An AC static pressure check is the best thing to start with.

[Quinn]

Thanks Dave for your reply and prompt response to my purchase order - outstanding service, thank you again

I remade and installed a new fused wire jumper on the Fan fail as it was brittle and corroded.
The car runs but the AC clutch will not engage when I turn the AC dial in any position.
This is only a recent thing and I have checked all the fuses.

Any suggestions to troubleshoot the AC start problem from anyone would be most welcome.

Cheers from the land DownUnder....

1) Check that all 3 of the electrical plugs are connected to the back of the mode switch.

2) Check that the rubber diaphram inside the mode switch is not broken.

3) Check that all vacuum lines are connected to back of mode switch (and not leaking).

[Helirich]

Last weekend I drove the car on a 400 mile trip. I noticed a vibration in the right rear wheel when going faster than 80-85. Yesterday I noticed a grinding from the same wheel when braking. I pulled the wheel and found the pads were down to the metal. I checked the other wheel and the pad was kind of thin, but over an 1/8”. I suspect the wheel bearing is shot on the right and the pads were keeping it straight. Anyways, new pads and bearings coming. I’m lucky, it appears no damage to the rotor.

[OZ DMC]

The AC clutch will not turn on if the pressure in the system is under 50 PSI. So a low charge or if it is to cold would result in no clutch operation. That is the most common problem but it could be electrical failures. An AC static pressure check is the best thing to start with.

Thanks Dave, sorry to be so long responding.

[OZ DMC]

1) Check that all 3 of the electrical plugs are connected to the back of the mode switch.

2) Check that the rubber diaphram inside the mode switch is not broken.

3) Check that all vacuum lines are connected to back of mode switch (and not leaking).

Thanks for your response Quinn. Appreciate the help.

[OZ DMC]

Thanks Dave for your reply and prompt response to my purchase order - outstanding service, thank you again

I remade and installed a new fused wire jumper on the Fan fail as it was brittle and corroded.
The car runs but the AC clutch will not engage when I turn the AC dial in any position.
This is only a recent thing and I have checked all the fuses.

Any suggestions to troubleshoot the AC start problem from anyone would be most welcome.

Cheers from the land DownUnder....

Your RPM, Fan Fail & fan Modules arrived this morning. Thank you

[Jonathan]

What have I done to my DeLorean today? Absolutely nothing. Weather is still crummy here.

What I did do though was watch Predator from 1987. Classic Arnold... "get to the chopper!" What I hadn't realized is that it's another Alan Silvestri music movie. And he totally uses some of the BTTF sounds and music at times. Towards the end, when it's down to just Arnold and the Predator, there are for sure familiar sounds in the scene...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80EaBRgGylo

[Kukem]

Today I decided to try and figure out why my window stopped working. Sadly, I think I need a new window motor. I checked fuses, switches and wiring, and it all seemed okay. Pulled the motor out and applied 12v just to see if I could get it to move. It whirred for a second and then died. It was super hot. I tried cleaning the motor and it didn't help. It was rusted on the inside pretty badly. So... I will have to order a new motor sometime this week from DMC-MW. 😕
68339

[Helirich]

Changed rear brake pads yesterday. Not a moment too soon. One was just scraping the disc. Thought a wheel bearing was bad, but it turned out to be OK. I’ll keep them for later. Today, new accumulator. Ready for a face full of gas.

[DARCOM]

Got new Hankook tiers all around.

[Timeless]

Got new Hankook tiers all around.
Just got a set as well to be installed soon.

[Riley88]

Ordered dpi's spec front end system and coil overs

[seventy4burban]

Got these back from being cleaned. Now time to finish the rest of the enginehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220425/6c25ccb197c048a0d21dfcbd0be8cfc2.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Mark D]

Got these back from being cleaned. Now time to finish the rest of the engine

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Did you get these vapor blasted? The parts look great!

[seventy4burban]

Did you get these vapor blasted? The parts look great!Glass bead blaster I believe is what need said he used

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Lwanmtr]

Yesterday I installed my Drayron sequencer boards...pretty spiffy, I must say.

[DavidProehl]

Replaced the battery in my Yoda VFD clock (https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14994-VFD-replacement-clocks/) (stock looking display with modern electronics)...I love this thing so much. Battery died after 3 years of use. It is a bit of a pain to get to as the clock has to be removed from its housing, but well worth it to me in order for the clock to always tell the right time after disconnecting the battery.

[seventy4burban]

Okay here is some more. Slowly the engine and transmission is getting there. Got to order a bunch of little things from Josh to make the details pop.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220425/551d26cb5f9306a45687a4f47fb4edbc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220425/c916b05638cb261b3d0060bc3f056ad4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220425/54b4499df8ce1e2cc05e8da38e6ce3e9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220425/0f365a339af583b053e701ee137fcab8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220425/afd7b17ac7ca149ce4e6c0e5b1b57e1c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220425/879b4e5fe0e094166022b1570dd8e575.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[iflights]

Replaced the battery in my Yoda VFD clock (https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14994-VFD-replacement-clocks/) (stock looking display with modern electronics)...I love this thing so much. Battery died after 3 years of use. It is a bit of a pain to get to as the clock has to be removed from its housing, but well worth it to me in order for the clock to always tell the right time after disconnecting the battery.

This is why I purchased, but never installed Yoda's clock. Once it's installed I didn't want to have to disassemble to change a battery. Glad you got 3 years out of a battery, might be time for me to re-visit that decision. Would have loved a remote battery option.

[Timeless]

This is why I purchased, but never installed Yoda's clock. Once it's installed I didn't want to have to disassemble to change a battery. Glad you got 3 years out of a battery, might be time for me to re-visit that decision. Would have loved a remote battery option.
I'm sure that a remote location can be accomplished. Maybe runs leads to underneath the ashtray.

[Michael]

I'm sure that a remote location can be accomplished. Maybe runs leads to underneath the ashtray.

From what I understood, the clock ran on the car's power. The battery was just a backup so if you ever unhooked the car battery, the time would be saved.

[Michael]

I finally found a nice Genesis Profile 5! This is a hand built amp made in England. It was a pretty expensive amp in it's day but now you can pick one up for 2-3 hundred(if you can find one). DMCH used these in the mid 2000's on their refurbished cars that had the stereo package. The signature feature of the Profile series was how thin it was. It allows for mounting behind the parcel shelf and out of sight.

These are quite hard to find for sale in the states but one will pop up from time to time. Took me about a year to get this one. I wanted it incase anything ever happened to mine, now I got a spare. It's so sleek looking, think I am going to mount it on the garage wall and put my old spectrum analyzer on top and set it to microphone input so when music is playing, it will look the part anyway.
6840068401

[Helirich]

I finally found a nice Genesis Profile 5! This is a hand built amp made in England. It was a pretty expensive amp in it's day but now you can pick one up for 2-3 hundred(if you can find one). DMCH used these in the mid 2000's on their refurbished cars that had the stereo package. The signature feature of the Profile series was how thin it was. It allows for mounting behind the parcel shelf and out of sight.

These are quite hard to find for sale in the states but one will pop up from time to time. Took me about a year to get this one. I wanted it incase anything ever happened to mine, now I got a spare. It's so sleek looking, think I am going to mount it on the garage wall and put my old spectrum analyzer on top and set it to microphone input so when music is playing, it will look the part anyway.
6840068401

So that is the actual amp behind your carpet? And the blue light is stock? Did you glue the carpet to the amp? When you say you finally found one, you mean you finally found a second one? I do like that setup. I guess I need to start looking on eBay.

Edit, I see they have a profile 4. I guess it’s not as good?

[Michael]

So that is the actual amp behind your carpet? And the blue light is stock? Did you glue the carpet to the amp? When you say you finally found one, you mean you finally found a second one? I do like that setup. I guess I need to start looking on eBay.

Edit, I see they have a profile 4. I guess it’s not as good?

Yeah I already have one,, this is just a backup since they are pretty rare..My amp is secured to the back side of the parcel shelf wall, the grill is relocated to the front carpet side to protect the fan(hole for fan cut into back board then carpeted). The light isn't stock, but I saw a pic with one and liked it and that one little thing started my whole 5 speaker replacement process and analyzer addition! What a snowball. I believe the Profile 4 is pretty much the same amp but without the dedicated subwoofer out.

The Profe amps are/were highly rated in their time being stable to 1.5ohms. I believe the total output is 350w but I can't remember for sure. I think I have mine bridged at 200x4 and 150x1

68402

[82DMC12]

So that is the actual amp behind your carpet? And the blue light is stock? Did you glue the carpet to the amp? When you say you finally found one, you mean you finally found a second one? I do like that setup. I guess I need to start looking on eBay.

Edit, I see they have a profile 4. I guess it’s not as good?

I did something sort of similar. I took the rear wall out and made a new rear wall to mount 6.5" speakers and an amp to it. The amp then has a press-fit wood and carpet cover that frames it. The press-fit cover used to surround my old amp perfectly (4-way Monitor 1, now long out of production). One of the channels died in it so I had to replace it with a new Zapco that has a bit different dimensions. Eventually I'll make a new cover so it fits better.

Anyway, this way I didn't lose any shelf space but I have a stereo that hits hard.

68403

[Michael]

I did something sort of similar. I took the rear wall out and made a new rear wall to mount 6.5" speakers and an amp to it. The amp then has a press-fit wood and carpet cover that frames it. The press-fit cover used to surround my old amp perfectly (4-way Monitor 1, now long out of production). One of the channels died in it so I had to replace it with a new Zapco that has a bit different dimensions. Eventually I'll make a new cover so it fits better.

Anyway, this way I didn't lose any shelf space but I have a stereo that hits hard.

68403


NICE!!! I love clean installs. I bet those 6.5's sound great! I wanted to lose the 4x10's but I stayed with them for simplicity.

[Stainless]

Okay here is some more. Slowly the engine and transmission is getting there. Got to order a bunch of little things from Josh to make the details pop.[[/IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220425/c916b05638cb261b3d0060bc3f056ad4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220425/54b4499df8ce1e2cc05e8da38e6ce3e9.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

I think I'm most impressed that you got the engine mount studs out from your engine. Mine were seized and ended up leaving them in for fear of breaking off the aluminum mount. Were yours easy to remove, or what technique did you use?

[82DMC12]

NICE!!! I love clean installs. I bet those 6.5's sound great! I wanted to lose the 4x10's but I stayed with them for simplicity.

Thanks! I had a pro audio shop put it all together. I ran the wires and brought the components and left it up to them to fabricate it with the instructions:

1) Must be clean / look close to factory
2) Can't lose shelf space
3) Has to be reversable with no damage to original parts.

I'm able to unscrew the rear wall from the bulkhead and put my original rear wall back in if I really wanted to. I left the original 4x10's in place but disconnected them.

Main downside to a custom install like this is after so many years it is hard to find replacement components with the same dimensions. That old Monitor 1 amp was awesome, no frills, just clean power. The Zapco has better crossover and boosting options and sounds pretty good too though.

There is also a paragraphic EQ mounted to the ceiling of the battery area, front 5.25" speakers mounted in kicks (Don Steger special), and new Kicker dash speakers as of 2021.

[seventy4burban]

I think I'm most impressed that you got the engine mount studs out from your engine. Mine were seized and ended up leaving them in for fear of breaking off the aluminum mount. Were yours easy to remove, or what technique did you use?Vice grips to break them loose and they came right out

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[seventy4burban]

Wait you talking about the exhaust studs....that's what I thought at first....

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[82DMC12]

Vice grips to break them loose and they came right out

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

I bet they'd also come out if you heat them up, thread a nut halfway onto the end, and hit it with an air chisel with a pointed tip. The nut would be on there to keep the tip from walking.


https://imgur.com/vcF655E

[82DMC12]

Wait you talking about the exhaust studs....that's what I thought at first....

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

He/We is talking about the motor mount studs that slide into the mounts. Notorious for being difficult to remove, most experienced people say to just leave them be.

[seventy4burban]

Awh.....my motor mounts gave me zero issues what so ever

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Stainless]

Awh.....my motor mounts gave me zero issues what so ever

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

You're lucky if your engine mount stud came out. I tried the "pull out" method when I had the motor out this past year. I stacked many washers on one side and tightened down the nut to try and pull the stud out. I tightened it as hard as I felt comfortable, but it didn't even budge. I also used heat to no avail.

My stud had completely fused itself to the block, and after reading horror stories about breaks and drilling out broken studs, I decided it wasn't worth further risk and let sleeping dogs lie. I did not attempt the air chisel method though. I wonder if that would have done the trick. If I ever have to pull the motor again, I'll give that a try.

On a related note, I have two engine mount studs available, if anyone needs them. :)

68404

[Helirich]

I did something sort of similar. I took the rear wall out and made a new rear wall to mount 6.5" speakers and an amp to it. The amp then has a press-fit wood and carpet cover that frames it. The press-fit cover used to surround my old amp perfectly (4-way Monitor 1, now long out of production). One of the channels died in it so I had to replace it with a new Zapco that has a bit different dimensions. Eventually I'll make a new cover so it fits better.

Anyway, this way I didn't lose any shelf space but I have a stereo that hits hard.


Very nice! How much room is there behind the “dress wall” and the firewall?

[Helirich]

Went to a super car show. I had the only Delorean. It drew loads of attention even though there were many expensive cars there.

68409

68410

68411

[MacStainless]

Yesterday I (had done by Rob) a few lingering items from last year. Mainly, got my driver's side bolster reaffixed and that sucker won't be going anywhere. Plus fixed a gas fume smell coming through the vents. The culprit: The cap to the old removed sender was completely disloged and simply sitting there. No wonder gas was splashing out during turns and stops! Finally, got some breakers replaced so my fans don't intermittently cut out. 💥


Went to a super car show. I had the only Delorean. It drew loads of attention even though there were many expensive cars there.


No better feeling than seeing people walk right by those because the Delorean is what they really want to see. 🤘🏻

[Mark D]

Spring has finally arrived, so last weekend my helper and I got the DeLorean out of winter storage and took it for a drive.

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=68453&d=1652467805

[iflights]

Replaced both axles with refurbished ones from DPI. Very nice units, One of mine had a torn boot, which may have been from a PO replaced axle. The other axle looked like it might have been original to the car. Car seems quieter during driving. Don't know if I was expecting that. I will admit I was too lazy to re-build my originals myself. 2 hours total.

[Kukem]

Finally replaced the passenger side window regulator and I have to admit... so far that was the worst DeLorean repair job yet. The window was extremely frustrating to get back in and on the tracks. My window track guides looks rough, so that's probably why it ran so rough before and I cleaned the burrs out and lubricated them as best I could. But, geeze, they were a pain! I also noticed that there must have been people in there before me as there were missing screws in places. I replaced some, but didn't have enough to do all. Glad it works now, but I hope the driver side doesn't go. I don't want to do that job again any time soon.

[82DMC12]

Very nice! How much room is there behind the “dress wall” and the firewall?

Oops, missed this question. Well the original dress wall doesn't have much space at all between the underbody/insulation and the dress wall. Maybe 1 cm. My new wall creates more space between the underbody and the wall to accommodate the amp, at the expense of losing a couple inches of parcel shelf space. The new wall is just in front of the rear interior lamp so that lamp is no longer able to be used.

[Helirich]

No better feeling than seeing people walk right by those because the Delorean is what they really want to see. 🤘🏻

Yea, if you look at this picture, I had to drive right up the center this ramp to park on the outside top tier of the parking garage. Everybody was stopping what they were looking at and pointed at me. Lol. I was a little disappointed that they had me park in a section with relatively ordinary cars. I was letting kids sit in mine for pictures, so I had tons of people there.

68492

[JBaker4981]

I am getting ready to put my car up on jack stands for a while so that I can do a WP job on it so... since a car show this past Saturday, I have been taking my girl out for some evening drives over the last couple of days.

Definitely the most relaxing setting to me.... driving the DeLorean with AC on, Black Sabbath playing, on the country roads at dusk.

685256852668527

[Jonathan]

I am getting ready to put my car up on jack stands for a while so that I can do a WP job on it so... since a car show this past Saturday, I have been taking my girl out for some evening drives over the last couple of days.

Definitely the most relaxing setting to me.... driving the DeLorean with AC on, Black Sabbath playing, on the country roads at dusk.

685256852668527

I think it was Michael that said a while back... "windows up, volume up" is the best way to drive the car. Cuts down on the amount of nonsense you have to listen to/deal with. Oh, and having functioning A/C helps to do that too... agreed on evening drives out on the back roads. That's exactly what I do with mine. Gotta 46 mile "lap" that's just about perfect. Enjoy Jesse!!

[Timeless]

Jesse, I love reading your detailed write-ups. :cheers:
Few items in the past couple weeks so combined in 1 post.
- DPI SS grille
- Holley RetroBright headlights (so great!)
- Clear front indicators with switchback LED
- Illuminated window switches with DMC alignment plate
- DGo LED for climate control
- DGo LED exterior bulbs (all) & LED dome light
- Drayon tail light boards
- Lower door seal

[WHO1DMC]

Replaced the power wires with 2 GA cables with a power buss bar. My hope is to make more reliable connections. Apon inspection of the old cables there was definitely a lot of corrosion about 7 inches on the starter end.

So with eliminating the bundle of wires crossing over the engine I thought it needed just a little bling.




Dave B.

[CyberBill]

I released a new video on the DeLorean EV conversion today - this one is focused on stripping the DeLorean's interior and wiring harness - taking it down to basically an empty shell in preparation for moving the EV components over.

https://youtu.be/aZVWvsji8sg


https://youtu.be/aZVWvsji8sg

[iflights]

Replaced fuel accumulator and lines. Have to assume a prior owner replaced the lines at one point. Missing 2 screws on accumulator mounting bracket. Found the split line and was lucky to have had it dump fuel on garage floor rather than while I was driving.

[Mark D]

I went to the Iola Old Car Show in Iola, WI yesterday and picked up some auto literature and a few Dodge hubcaps. It's one of the larger car shows in the midwest and has a huge parts/swap area.

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=68656&d=1657292877

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=68657&d=1657292948

Got to spend some time with a few other DeLorean owners and check out their cars.

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=68658&d=1657293177

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=68659&d=1657293188

[Patrick C]

Removed my 18 year old Eibach springs and finished a QA1 coilover setup on the front and rear. Rides so well now! I wish I had done this years ago.

[81dmc]

Removed my 18 year old Eibach springs and finished a QA1 coilover setup on the front and rear. Rides so well now! I wish I had done this years ago.

What QA1 parts did you use?


I did the qa1 front suspension a few years ago, but it ran horrible rough…

[Patrick C]

What QA1 parts did you use?


I did the qa1 front suspension a few years ago, but it ran horrible rough…

Yes, I’ve heard others say the same. Back then the suggestion was to use a 375 lb Mustang II spring that would fit our stock spring isolators. I’m using a new isolator with an 8” 300 lb spring. Rides very nicely and is much less jarring than my AVO shocks and Eibach springs were. Really a pleasant driving experience on our rough Michigan roads.

[81dmc]

Yes, I’ve heard others say the same. Back then the suggestion was to use a 375 lb Mustang II spring that would fit our stock spring isolators. I’m using a new isolator with an 8” 300 lb spring. Rides very nicely and is much less jarring than my AVO shocks and Eibach springs were. Really a pleasant driving experience on our rough Michigan roads.

Do you perhaps have the p/ns of the springs and the isolators you used front and rear? I definitely want to do this change before I put my car back on the road.

[82DMC12]

Replaced the power wires with 2 GA cables with a power buss bar. My hope is to make more reliable connections. Apon inspection of the old cables there was definitely a lot of corrosion about 7 inches on the starter end.

So with eliminating the bundle of wires crossing over the engine I thought it needed just a little bling.




Dave B.

Just curious how your wrapped your engine harness again after unwrapping it and removing the brown wires. I recently replace my browns with welding cable as well (didn't do the block though because I used 4 AWG). I'm not using electrical tape, that's no good for engine heat. Got a better suggestion that will hold up?

[ssdelorean]

I replaced the disintegrated sponge rings by the rear air intake/vents.

For less than $8.00 I picked up 2 yellow Mini Sink Plungers from HomeDepot (also available at Lowes). Removed the rubber rings. Cut & placed around the intake tubes. Seam placed in back corner and is not visible. I thought of adding some black RTV to secure in place but haven't yet as they don't move and stay in place just fine.

All credit to Chris Toller for this find.

686756867668677

[WHO1DMC]

Just curious how your wrapped your engine harness again after unwrapping it and removing the brown wires. I recently replace my browns with welding cable as well (didn't do the block though because I used 4 AWG). I'm not using electrical tape, that's no good for engine heat. Got a better suggestion that will hold up?

I used tesa tape 51036 its mainly made of fabric and can withstand 257 F. That's what it seems everyone is using these days. There different colors and widths.
The old original tape I cut off with a seem stitch remover. Most of the old electrical tape was so dried out it wouldn't have worked anyway.


David B.

[82DMC12]

I used tesa tape 51036 its mainly made of fabric and can withstand 257 F. That's what it seems everyone is using these days. There different colors and widths.
The old original tape I cut off with a seem stitch remover. Most of the old electrical tape was so dried out it wouldn't have worked anyway.


David B.

Awesome, thanks. Next time I'm in there I'll pull all the browns out. They are just zip tied out of the way for now. They were really getting corroded and didn't look so good after 40 years. Glad to be rid of them!

[82DMC12]

I replaced the disintegrated sponge rings by the rear air intake/vents.

For less than $8.00 I picked up 2 yellow Mini Sink Plungers from HomeDepot (also available at Lowes). Removed the rubber rings. Cut & placed around the intake tubes. Seam placed in back corner and is not visible. I thought of adding some black RTV to secure in place but haven't yet as they don't move and stay in place just fine.

All credit to Chris Toller for this find.

686756867668677

Nice! I need to do this. Maybe I'll pick up a couple of those plungers today, in fact. I can't go anywhere for a bit because my fuel tank cover plate is off getting refinished so I'm looking for easy stuff I can do without starting or moving my car.

Andy

[Rich]

This looks pretty nice.

For those looking for a collection of solutions for this issue check this other thread, (https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12789) too. It includes variations on this approach including toilet tank seal rings, adhesive-backed foam strips, maybe more.

I don't think I've seen a DeLorean in the past 5-10 years with original pontoon-to-vent/intake seals in decent condition. The originals go baggy when the foam inside turns to dust. The original part, 106693 (Sponge Ring), has been NLA for decades.



I replaced the disintegrated sponge rings by the rear air intake/vents.

For less than $8.00 I picked up 2 yellow Mini Sink Plungers from HomeDepot (also available at Lowes). Removed the rubber rings. Cut & placed around the intake tubes. Seam placed in back corner and is not visible. I thought of adding some black RTV to secure in place but haven't yet as they don't move and stay in place just fine.

All credit to Chris Toller for this find.

686756867668677

[Rich]

Just curious how your wrapped your engine harness again after unwrapping it and removing the brown wires. I recently replace my browns with welding cable as well (didn't do the block though because I used 4 AWG). I'm not using electrical tape, that's no good for engine heat. Got a better suggestion that will hold up?

Here's how to use tape similar to the tape (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCDNB7bCnn4) our harnesses were probably wrapped with in case that's interesting to anybody. It takes the heat in the engine bay just fine unless a nearby heat shield is missing or maybe with headers.

I think "our" harness tape has no adhesive so if you use such tape perform a repair or upgrade you need to know how to start and end the tape wraps as seen in that video link. That's how it stays in place. And never turns gooey. And looks original.

Here is one example of that tape (https://www.jegs.com/i/American-Autowire/073/R0067108/10002/-1).

Tesa adhesive tape is probably OK as long as you like the look and it stays adhered/wrapped at the loose end. I haven't tried it.

[Bitsyncmaster]

When to take the D to the post office and my cooling fans turned when I started the car. The AC was not set on. After a little troubleshooting it looks like my otterstat has failed closed. Just unplugged it and things when back to normal. I will have to check it on an ohmmeter but pretty sure it's bad. This is the screw in otterstat which I have not heard of any complaints on those yet.

[Bitsyncmaster]

When to take the D to the post office and my cooling fans turned when I started the car. The AC was not set on. After a little troubleshooting it looks like my otterstat has failed closed. Just unplugged it and things when back to normal. I will have to check it on an ohmmeter but pretty sure it's bad. This is the screw in otterstat which I have not heard of any complaints on those yet.

Well I ohm tested the otterstat and read 164 ohms but then test it again and it reads up to 474 ohms. I do have a new one that tests infinity for ohms. I may just leave the otterstat disconnected and let my electronic otterstat switch the fans on. Or I may install the new one (makes a mess of coolant) and see if it ever fails like the first one.

[Riley88]

I looked at my delorean sitting there being reliable... Then started working on my lotus next to it

[Mark D]

I looked at my delorean sitting there being reliable... Then started working on my lotus next to it


LOL same. But old BMW instead of lotus.

[Roberto]

Bolted down my roof box. Put some wax into the cavity. Replaced the door harness clamping pads. Sealed up the bolts and washers.
Robert
vin #3915
Belfast68686

[Helirich]

Bolted down my roof box. Put some wax into the cavity. Replaced the door harness clamping pads. Sealed up the bolts and washers.
Robert
vin #3915
Belfast68686

Can you elaborate a bit? What initially caused you to work on it? Any pics before you started? Actually, any/all pics?

[Roberto]

Can you elaborate a bit? What initially caused you to work on it? Any pics before you started? Actually, any/all pics?

I inspected the interior of my roof box and found some rust so decided to take some action. The roof box was secure but the centre section had bowed with a 1/4" gap. So sealed that up. Managed to remove torsion bar tilting door past vertical and used long bolts.

68687
68688
68689
68690

[82DMC12]

I sent my fuel tank cover plate off to get refinished. They did a good job with what I gave them - baked it first to burn off the old epoxy and black undercoating (1982 undercoated car), then media blasted it, then powder coated it Card Black. I chose black as an homage to the car's undercoated history. It looks great however you can still see the pitting the rust caused after 40 years of neglect. If I were able to do it myself I would tried to sand down the pitting, or filled it with bondo, but for the price I paid I'm not complaining. Good enough!

Before / After

6869168692

[81dmc]

Removed the Mustang II QA1 springs and installed the correct 8CS300 springs with Energy 9.6105G isolators up front. You can see the difference…
68717

I thought my rough ride was because the shocks had too much power, but it was the springs all along! Front suspension actually articulates now!

Also installed TAB washer shims on my LCA stabilizers so they don’t rub the frame…
68719

[Patrick C]

Removed the Mustang II QA1 springs and installed the correct 8CS300 springs with Energy 9.6105G isolators up front. You can see the difference…
68717

I thought my rough ride was because the shocks had too much power, but it was the springs all along! Front suspension actually articulates now!

Glad they worked out and I didn’t lead you astray! I’m very happy with mine as well.

[81dmc]

Glad they worked out and I didn’t lead you astray! I’m very happy with mine as well.

I was always disappointed with the qa1 front suspension until now. Now I just need to finish the EFI electrical and get the car back on the road…

And thank you very much for the help!

[jawn101]

Passed smog, so today marks the maximum amount of time for me to stress about the next one in 2 years.

[81dmc]

Been routing MS3 wiring the past few days. Also adding an AC compressor relay so the MS3 can control both compressor and cooling fans.

Going EDIS for now because it’s easy and quick, but running all injectors individually for future ability to add sequential either with the PRV or perhaps another V6 sometime.

This is going to be interesting to tune as I have zero experience with gas vehicles. All my tuning experience are diesels. In fact, the D is my only gas car.


I am definitely excited to get this done as I haven’t driven my car for more than 4 years now…

68743

[81dmc]

Almost finished up the relay compartment. Just need to run the new wiring to cooling fans. I’ve pulled the entire main harness from the front to install 10 AWG wire for the fans and iBooster. Since I have an early car, Fuse 18 will become 30amp for iBooster.

I just want to integrate while I have the harness opened.

Going to have the MS3 run AC compressor and fans. Trans kickdown will come from a high current output. RPM, CLT, etc. will be transmitted to my Dakota Digital cluster via CAN Bus.

68751

Also beginning wiring.
I’m pretty glad I changed the car to Deutsche DT connectors in 2016. Now it’s easy to find and swap contacts. No special tools.

68749 68750