What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[sdg3205]

Love it!!!! Care to post some instructions?

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?152-Cheap-basic-LED-interior-lights&p=156371#post156371

[alexwolf1216]

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?152-Cheap-basic-LED-interior-lights&p=156371#post156371
Ha! Thanks

[Henrik]

Accidentally drove over a concrete block at a local car gathering. :sad30::sad30:

Took some of the epoxy off the rear of the frame. I heard POR15 is the way to go? Anyone used this stuff before?

I'm thinking of touching it up, not to strip and repaint the whole rear of the frame.

I know the colour wont match, but I don't want the rust to blow out on it.

Simon,
I had a sneaky brake fluid leak that I hadn't discovered. I stripped the frame wherever the paint had been dissolved, ground the frame down to the metal and painted 2-3 layers of Gray POR-15 Rust Preventive (http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Preventive-Coating_p_8.html), pn 45208 for the pint. This stuff dries rock-hard, like glass - awesome. I highly recommend it! BTW, the gray color is very close to our frame gray.

Henrik

[SIMid]

Simon,
I had a sneaky brake fluid leak that I hadn't discovered. I stripped the frame wherever the paint had been dissolved, ground the frame down to the metal and painted 2-3 layers of Gray POR-15 Rust Preventive (http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Preventive-Coating_p_8.html), pn 45208 for the pint. This stuff dries rock-hard, like glass - awesome. I highly recommend it! BTW, the gray color is very close to our frame gray.

Henrik

Hi Henrik,

I tried to get some POR15, but it's a rare product here and the supplier that I could find only had "Black". When I requested if I could have "Gray", it seemed to be a hassle for him to order it, plus he only had 500ml which I only need less than half to touch up.

But I managed to find KBS Coating which is pretty much the same product. Comes in gray as well. There supplier was really helpful.

I only need to touch up a few spots. I'm guessing no harm painting large areas (on top of the epoxy) when it's thoroughly cleaned?

[Rich_NYS]

foot well lighting!!!

NICE!!

I'm definitely going to do this someday. Jeremiah showed me his setup at DCS and I really liked it. :rock_on:

[Tillsy]

When I requested if I could have "Gray", it seemed to be a hassle for him to order it,

Should have asked for grey ;)



But I managed to find KBS Coating which is pretty much the same product. Comes in gray as well.

That's what I use - great stuff and comes with a complete kit of all the treatments.

[SIMid]

Should have asked for grey ;).

LOL! I changed the spelling as I didn't want to cause a debate on here. :p


That's what I use - great stuff and comes with a complete kit of all the treatments.

I got the Sampler kit which comes with the AquaClean, probably what you got as well. :) So it should not be an issue at all when I prep and paint.

How did the colour-color match up with KBS Grey-Gray with the frame Tillsy?

[Tillsy]

How did the colour-color match up with KBS Grey-Gray with the frame Tillsy?

It looks exactly like you'd imagine the frame would have brand new. So colour wise a dead on match, but condition wise it's a bad match - the old is very dull, filthy, and matte whereas the new is bright, shiny, and sexy :)

[Tillsy]

Thought I had a picture uploaded here of the frame extension work I did recently, can't find it though. Here's a shot of the brake fluid damage I fixed inside the fuel tank area a couple of years ago...
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=11610

[Rich_NYS]

Removed headlight assemblies and front fascia.

Painted headlight assemblies & replaced adjusters, removed eyebrows.

The headlight area had a few mouse-nests when I bought it, I'm now going to clean out the entire area and hopefully remove the smell that's been making it into the cabin. Also hoping to resolve the gap where the fascia meets the fender.

[BABIS]

Removed headlight assemblies and front fascia.

Painted headlight assemblies & replaced adjusters, removed eyebrows.

The headlight area had a few mouse-nests when I bought it, I'm now going to clean out the entire area and hopefully remove the smell that's been making it into the cabin. Also hoping to resolve the gap where the fascia meets the fender.

just for curiosity, is it possible to remove both headlight assemblies without taking off the front fascia?

[Rich_NYS]

just for curiosity, is it possible to remove both headlight assemblies without taking off the front fascia?

Yes, I did it early this year when I was a new owner, but I think it's a PITA and too much risk of scratching the fascia (like I did.)

After dealing with all the different headlight assembly screws & fasteners, then comparing that to removing the fascia, my preference is to remove the fascia.

It's not only easier & less risk [for me,] it's also faster.

[vps3922]

Reveiced my Fan Fail module and Fan relay back from bitsyncmaster and installed them right away. Working great again!

Checked my oil drip pan and I still have gear oil leaking out of my final drive even after giving the bolts along the split seal a bit more torque and tightening the fill and drain plug after filling her up. Drive shaft seals look leaky although they got replaced about 5 months ago. Might need to return to DMC NW to leave more money there.

Used my "Edding" pen to paint raised white letters to my front Cooper Cobra tires. Still need to do one more "Cooper Cobra" line on the passenger side. It still looked ok with the white color applied by my friend Dave, but it will not hold for long while the Edding stuff is really looking great and holding up (did the Passenger tire a few weeks ago).

I can provide pictures if desired.

Car started up after 3 primes. Have a weird start up issue since Dave (sdg3205) and I (mostly him, due to my lack of experience with the car and my tendency to break $hit. I rather trust somebody who did it several times before than me trying for the first time when it comes to high pressure fuel lines) replaced my fuel lines with the stainless steel braided ones I got from DMC NW. The car will fire up (after priming) and die right away after one turn when it got a rest for several days. The idle will be rough if it starts after several attempts and primes for a little while (doing the Marty McFly gas paddle during crank) and then go back to normal idle.
This issue does not occur if I only let the car rest for a few hours or one or two days. I have the feeling that something is not sealed properly and the system is leaking just a bit of gas somewhere to empty the lines or drop pressure (just a feeling). I might open a different thread in case that we cannot figure out what is going on.

[Tillsy]

Major rewiring complete and AC LED panel finally installed.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=30729&d=1410533426

[vps3922]

Major rewiring complete and AC LED panel finally installed.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=30729&d=1410533426

That's looking awesome? Is this the panel from Dave (bitsyncmaster)?

[Rich_NYS]

Major rewiring complete and AC LED panel finally installed.


That looks prett badass!

[Rich]

just for curiosity, is it possible to remove both headlight assemblies without taking off the front fascia?

Yes, it is.

Assuming your fascia paint job is solid, that is.

All you do is put down one or two layers of painter's tape (blue masking tape with low adhesion) on all sides of the fascia openings around the headlights first.

Then go at it, making sure not tear any of the tape with whatever tools you use to get the headlight hardware out and back in again.

After you reassemble then remove the tape.

Be careful on the vertical edges of the fascia just outboard of both of the lowbeams. If you do any prying to move it aside use a wide, flat tool so as not to tear it up. It is supposed to flex but it can tear or crack if you don't use a soft/wide tool to push it aside.

[sdg3205]

Went for a cruise with Dan O'connel (2991) and took along Homer the puppy.

Deloreans are amaze balls, but a Delorean AND a puppy?! Face melter.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/13/3788cd8950a67a4d422ec9180bb19549.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/13/b37621e1909c19f3dc7b6c6418cacbfd.jpg

[Tillsy]

Went for a 100 mile drive to enjoy a custard berlina (yes absolutely worth it!!!) and ticked over to 18000 miles today - so that's 6000 trouble-free miles since restoration.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=30739&d=1410677024

[DMC5180]

The Original DMCH aftermarket steering wheel adapter is 3.25". The MOMO EVO wheel is nearly flat (no dish). This combination only leaves about 3/4" space between turn signal stalk and wheel. Not enough room for my big fingers.

A quick search on EBAY came up with this 1/2 inch spacer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/390390084948?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648


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Like the DMCH adapter, this spacer has the same 2 hole patterns. 70MM(2.75") Momo pattern and a 74MM(2.89") pattern.You mount the spacer to the adapter using the counterbored 74MM hole pattern with the M6 socket head bolts provided. This maintains the wheel position so that the 70MM pattern aligns with the 70MM pattern of the adapter.

NOTE: If you were too use the counterbored 70MM holes in the spacer to mount it to the adapter, the wheel would be off several degrees and would need to be repositioned to the steering column shaft.

The kit comes with M6 x 25MM countersunk screws to mount the wheel to the spacer/adapter. I did NOT use them even though the threaded holes aligned between the adapter and spacer, the thread cuts do not match up. I just reused the M6 x 12MM screws with the original wheel installation.

NOTE: I believe the latest version of the DMCH adapter is longer than the original one they used to sell. A spacer is not required for that one. I also checked the DMCH website. They currently show $0.00 (no stock) for the adapter.

Anyway, It's sure nice to have finger clearance again.

[Tillsy]

I believe the latest version of the DMCH adapter is longer than the original one they used to sell. A spacer is not required for that one. I also checked the DMCH website. They currently show $0.00 (no stock) for the adapter.

The DMCH one is NLA - the new one is by DMCMW.

[DMC5180]

The DMCH one is NLA - the new one is by DMCMW.

Was not aware of that, thanks.

[DMC81]

Found water in the oil so I pulled this intake and found this little hole, time to research my options.


30751

[Rich_NYS]

just for curiosity, is it possible to remove both headlight assemblies without taking off the front fascia?



Yes, I did it early this year when I was a new owner, but I think it's a PITA and too much risk of scratching the fascia (like I did.)

After dealing with all the different headlight assembly screws & fasteners, then comparing that to removing the fascia, my preference is to remove the fascia.

It's not only easier & less risk [for me,] it's also faster.


Here's a pic of when I did it:

30752

[Rich_NYS]

Headlight assemblies and eyebrow repair on Thursday-Friday.... A/C flush, vacuum, and charge on Saturday.
30757 30758
30755

[gamerguy51]

I'm pretty excited as I just placed my first two orders for parts!! From Hervey, I have reconditioned front and rear brake calipers, master cylinder, and front and rear rotors on the way!! From DMCH, I have miscellaneous interior parts.

I cannot wait!!!!!

:headbang:
Just make sure and do a follow up call to Hervey. Its the old school way to handle orders. after my checkup call found out my order was misplaced, but he took care of it quick. Product was very satisfactory(ac hoses). Good luck!

[gamerguy51]

Rebuilt my clutch master cylinder and replaced fuel pump. Now to bleed it!

[SIMid]

Thought I had a picture uploaded here of the frame extension work I did recently, can't find it though. Here's a shot of the brake fluid damage I fixed inside the fuel tank area a couple of years ago...
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=11610

Thanks Chris!

I managed to paint under the frame over the weekend (scuffed parts). Yeah, it was lighter in colour but it's definitely strong/lethal stuff! If I could redo the whole frame, this would be the stuff to use!

[vps3922]

Went for a cruise with Dan O'connel (2991) and took along Homer the puppy.

Deloreans are amaze balls, but a Delorean AND a puppy?! Face melter.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/13/3788cd8950a67a4d422ec9180bb19549.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/13/b37621e1909c19f3dc7b6c6418cacbfd.jpg

This is ingenious, Dave! A great way to attrackt chicks to the car. Like bait'n switch! :wink:

[vps3922]

Went to a car show in Summerland, BC on Saturday. What an awesome crowd and the car's there were a great mix. Nice weather and the drive from Vancouver through the Cascades was epic.

30762

Met a fellow DeLorean colleague there who says that he is just starting with getting to know and use the Internet better. He had two DeLoreans so far and sold one but could not stand the void and now has this one.

30763

It is VIN 11238 and he kept it in great condition. He researched a lot on his own and found a lot of replacement parts due to the lack of access to DMCH or this great forum. He is a time capsule owner from before the Internet times. We exchanged contacts and I will see how our little crowd in the lower mainland can help him to keep his beauty on the road.

He built this:
30764

He said that it always looked as if you could "look the DeLorean under the skirt" and he felt the need to get this resolved. He wants to redo this one day and make it out of a solid piece of stainless. It finishes off the line of the car and he is right. I am not sure if the muffler can still get efficiently cooled though. But it is a great idea.

He was very interested in Dave McKeen's relays and I will connect the two to do some business.

He sold his first D to a friend in Surrey, BC and he said that they were unable to get it started. I will see if we can connect witht his guy as well and see what we can do for him.

3922 performed very well. The Fan Fail started to flash a code on the way to Kelowna and I will have to find out what that code was. It did not do it on the way back. The driver's side front wheel bearing started to squeek. Very annoying. It goes away for a bit if you break but will come back. Dave G. already told me that it is not an expensive part and I will order it soon.

I will probably start another thread with some pics from the show.

[sdg3205]

Volker - we ought to do a wheel bearing day. I'll do mine at the same time. It kinda hurts the awesome factor having squeaky wheel :)

I take the hubs and bearing to a machine shop to have them properly pressed. the bearings are quite delicate, IIRC.

[Jonathan]

Concluded I need to rethink how many of these cars are still around, here in Ontario, or elsewhere.

Our club has the "official" count at about 65-70 cars in the province. Thing is though, I've confirmed four more cars in the past two weeks that were not part of that number.

And for a variety of different reasons we hadn't heard of them or the owners. Either owners that got busy in life and fell off the radar, were never on the radar in the first place, or had their interest in the cars or the club/public/Internet/attention tail off.

I'm starting to think there is more like 150 in the province and much closer to that 7,000 number believed to still exist that many others subscribe to. I used to think it was closer to 3,500 based on what I saw and now I'm not so sure.

I do see the justification for laying low as an owner or how the novelty of it can wear off. That being said, you can stimulate that interest just by getting back in it and going for a drive to see the public get (you) excited again. And the more you do that, the more the random guy comes up to you to chat about the car and tell you of the one he has.

That's how 3 of the 4 cars found me. A current owner (or an owner's father) stopping to say hello while I had it out at a show. Sort of a tipping point with these cars in that I think more and more are going to come out of the woodwork because of this. Which is good.

[ifelder]

Drove it to work for the first time in a few weeks after replacing a lot of engine components. Just arrived home and noticed the rear faschia wasn't aligned and then found a dent in the LH rear quarter panel. Looks like someone swiped it in the garage at work... no cameras, no idea when it happened, no paint transfer. Super bummed.


30816

[SIMid]

Drove it to work for the first time in a few weeks after replacing a lot of engine components. Just arrived home and noticed the rear faschia wasn't aligned and then found a dent in the LH rear quarter panel. Looks like someone swiped it in the garage at work... no cameras, no idea when it happened, no paint transfer. Super bummed.


30816

Wow! You're calm.

My post would had been full of ####! & ###! & ###!!!

This is what scares me parking my car in public. Already have issues with my daily ride not getting scratches and dents. :(

[Mark D]

GHAHH! I'd be so pissed. I can hardly look at the picture.

Sorry to see you are stuck with a dented panel... Hopefully it's not going to cost you much to fix it.

I drove my car to work today too for a change. My co-workers are usually nice and park around me ... I know they're not going to give me a door ding or smash my fender but there are some other employees that aren't so careful.

Sorry again :frown:

[Domi]

I'm sorry for you.
The person who did this didn't leave a note to contact him/her?

[ifelder]

I'm sorry for you.
The person who did this didn't leave a note to contact him/her?

No note, nothing. I had been parking in the same spot for a long time with no incident, i was scoping it out today and it looks like someone pulled into this ramped loading dock that leads to some doors (that I didn't anticipate anyone driving their car on) and when they backed out they must have had a trailer hitch and ran into me. I was surprised how low the dent is, and assumed it must have been done by a low car, but now that I'm looking at the angle of attack from this ramp it could have been any car.

The stainless doesn't have any fiberglass behind it at that spot so i was able to flex some of the dent out (before I took that picture). This made me think that someone backing into it might not have even felt it if the panel provided little to no resistance.

A new panel is ~1200+shipping+install pain from Houston, or I think my closest alternative solution would be a trip on the ferry to long island to visit PJ Grady for some panel rehab. I think it could be fixed, but I am worried that it is in quite a curvy location. Shame it's also one of the largest panels on the car.


Shit happens, and it sucks no one left a note, but like I said I can see how it could have happened without much feedback to the driver.

[Stainless]

A new panel is ~1200+shipping+install pain from Houston, or I think my closest alternative solution would be a trip on the ferry to long island to visit PJ Grady for some panel rehab. I think it could be fixed, but I am worried that it is in quite a curvy location. Shame it's also one of the largest panels on the car.


Shit happens, and it sucks no one left a note, but like I said I can see how it could have happened without much feedback to the driver.

That does blow. If it's any help, I had a crease in my driver quarter panel in a very similar spot that DMCNW was able to repair. Even with shipping, it was cheaper to get mine repaired than it was for a new panel. Best of luck!

[ifelder]

That does blow. If it's any help, I had a crease in my driver quarter panel in a very similar spot that DMCNW was able to repair. Even with shipping, it was cheaper to get mine repaired than it was for a new panel. Best of luck!

Good to know. Is it very difficult to remove these panels? I haven't done any research yet to determine the scope of work to remove this one, I assume I have to remove rear fascia.

[Stainless]

Good to know. Is it very difficult to remove these panels? I haven't done any research yet to determine the scope of work to remove this one, I assume I have to remove rear fascia.

I didn't remove the rear fascia. From what I recall, there are three bolts on the left side of the fascia that you have to remove so you can pull the fascia away just enough to be able to gain access to the screws holding in the right side of the quarter panel. I don't recall the job being especially difficult... just a bit time consuming finding all of the various screws hidden under the weather stripping by the door.

[Mark D]

That doesn't look too far beyond repair. If I had to guess I'd say it would be $400-$500 to fix. If you can get the car down to Grady that might be doable on the car since there is plenty of access behind the panel, otherwise if you end up removing it that might make it cheaper/less time to fix since it would probably go faster on a bench.

My car has / had a dent just below that spot and I've heard it's a common area for damage when loading/unloading off of tow trucks. So in that regard anyone who's experienced in DeLorean panel repair probably has a good amount of experience with that particular area.

[ifelder]

That doesn't look too far beyond repair. If I had to guess I'd say it would be $400-$500 to fix. If you can get the car down to Grady that might be doable on the car since there is plenty of access behind the panel, otherwise if you end up removing it that might make it cheaper/less time to fix since it would probably go faster on a bench.

My car has / had a dent just below that spot and I've heard it's a common area for damage when loading/unloading off of tow trucks. So in that regard anyone who's experienced in DeLorean panel repair probably has a good amount of experience with that particular area.

Even better. I am considering taking the panel off myself to transport it to some shop for repair. Was going to call around and see what I could get in terms of estimates on the work before I ship or self transport anything. I can get to long island on the crosssound ferry without much pain, but I'd prefer to put my VW on the ferry and not the DeLorean.

[dustybarn]

Drove in Brighton, NY High School's Homecoming Parade. The Senior Class's slogan was "Seniors: Ready for the Future!"

Their "clock tower" float (by their own admission) was pretty sad so I'm glad I was there.
I added temporary LED flux bands.
30918

One student dressed up as ALF for some reason.
30919

"Marty" was the student who had the idea for the theme.
30920

[arrow_runner]

I replaced this last night. No wonder the rear end acted like I was driving a boat.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10204924744177693&l=4297362828506776040

[DavidProehl]

Replaced a faded tail light with a used one DMCMW pulled from a parts car:

Before:
30974

After:
30973

Side by side comparison:
30972

If you are in the market for a yellow tail light, drop me a line with an offer! I'll likely be listing this on eBay in a couple weeks.

[SS Spoiler]

I see earthquake straps on the water heater, but what about the stuff stored above the DeLorean?
jus' wondering......

[DavidProehl]

I see earthquake straps on the water heater, but what about the stuff stored above the DeLorean?
jus' wondering......

I guess that is true! Still not used to thinking about earthquakes. None of that stuff is very heavy, but could certainly leave some scratches if it fell.

[Kukem]

After a lot of troubleshooting, I finally have my voltage issue sorted out. Cleaned all the grounds, contacts and fuse box contacts, then pulled the binnicle and cleaned all the contacts there as well as adding all new fuses to the box. Running 13 volts strong now. Also pulled the fuel sender to check it and noticed that the fuel light comes on when it is low and the needle moves when it is close to empty but the gauge always points straight up even after moving when the tank gets low.

[DMC5180]

After a lot of troubleshooting, I finally have my voltage issue sorted out. Cleaned all the grounds, contacts and fuse box contacts, then pulled the binnicle and cleaned all the contacts there as well as adding all new fuses to the box. Running 13 volts strong now. Also pulled the fuel sender to check it and noticed that the fuel light comes on when it is low and the needle moves when it is close to empty but the gauge always points straight up even after moving when the tank gets low.


Check Continuity between the Black (ground) and Green/black (fuel gauge) wires across the riveted terminal contacts on the top of the sending unit. Your gauge needle will point Straight up if there is an Open circuit ( Do the test with the sender disconnected)

You proven that the ground is GOOD because the LOW fuel Light Works. (Red/LG) wire.

[robvanderveer]

fixed a bad brake light. The bulbs were fine, so i traced it back to a dodgy half molten 10a fuse. I probably got a shock from the tail pipe welding job. I may need to replace that fuse box one of these days..

[Kukem]

Check Continuity between the Black (ground) and Green/black (fuel gauge) wires across the riveted terminal contacts on the top of the sending unit. Your gauge needle will point Straight up if there is an Open circuit ( Do the test with the sender disconnected)

You proven that the ground is GOOD because the LOW fuel Light Works. (Red/LG) wire.


Hey thanks! I will try that this evening.

[DMC5180]

Installed DMCMW (CS130) alternator. WOW it's nice to see a solid needle 1/2 way between 13 and the next Mark up @ idle. I turned ON the Headlights and the needle didn't flinch. Later on I did let the engine get hot enough to turn the OEM fans ON. The needle did flinch slightly but still well above 13V. Unfortunately I may have a sick or Dying RH fan. My DMeng (fan fail) was flashing the the FF light. A quick check with my hand behind the fans did seem to reveal less Air movement from the RH fan. After a couple minutes the light stopped flashing, I could still hear the fan(s) running and the temp was coming down. Either way, I think it's finally time to invest in a DPNW fan kit.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Installed DMCMW (CS130) alternator. WOW it's nice to see a solid needle 1/2 way between 13 and the next Mark up @ idle. I turned ON the Headlights and the needle didn't flinch. Later on I did let the engine get hot enough to turn the OEM fans ON. The needle did flinch slightly but still well above 13V. Unfortunately I may have a sick or Dying RH fan. My DMeng (fan fail) was flashing the the FF light. A quick check with my hand behind the fans did seem to reveal less Air movement from the RH fan. After a couple minutes the light stopped flashing, I could still hear the fan(s) running and the temp was coming down. Either way, I think it's finally time to invest in a DPNW fan kit.

At the last tech session, I was planning on doing some fan current testing of many cars. Well the rain put a damper on that plan. I did get one car tested with OEM fans. Results amazed me that one fan was 8.98 amps, the other was 9.80 amps with the engine running. However the fan fail socket had the feed wire pin melted into the socket so at some time there was a problem with a bad connection or the fans drawing to much power. My OEM fans would each draw above 15 amps each. So until I get some more testing done, I still don't know what is the problem with OEM fans. Is it age that increased the current? Or is it some fan motors are not built the same as others?

[vps3922]

Drove the DeLorean to work and had several tours around the car with colleagues and friends.

I went later with my wife (not in the D though) to a Thrift Shop (yes, I shop there) and was pleasantly surprised to find a high and low beam Sylvania lights for the D there for $6.99 each. SCORE! :yesss:

[DMC5180]

At the last tech session, I was planning on doing some fan current testing of many cars. Well the rain put a damper on that plan. I did get one car tested with OEM fans. Results amazed me that one fan was 8.98 amps, the other was 9.80 amps with the engine running. However the fan fail socket had the feed wire pin melted into the socket so at some time there was a problem with a bad connection or the fans drawing to much power. My OEM fans would each draw above 15 amps each. So until I get some more testing done, I still don't know what is the problem with OEM fans. Is it age that increased the current? Or is it some fan motors are not built the same as others?

Some later cars used Bosch fan motors. I seem to recall these did not draw as much current.
Ridiculously expensive though.

[sdg3205]

Changed the coolant

Flushed the brakes

Attempted to flush the clutch and gave up

Changed a burnt out brake light

Retorqued Ed's LCA outriggers

Changed the oil and oil filter

Steering alignment

Repainted my RWL

[AugustneverEnds]

Changed the lower right side water pipe. Anti-roll bar filed two pin holes in it. Made a sheath for the new pipe until I can replace the springs and raise the ride height :ehh:

Ordered LEDs for the marker and license plate lights.

[novadmc]

ordered swaybar upgrade kit from DPNW.
ordered a bunch of minor things from DMCH (mostly rubber weather stripping pieces, new angle drive dust cap, and some spare lug nuts (ive got one that's partially stripped))

replaced the dead Front Left speaker in the car. pulled it out and hooked it up to the multimeter. 0ohms registered. wasn't a hard job by any stretch but it was a bit of a pain since the prior install job used to different nut sizes to secure the speaker (one was 9mm, other was stock 7mm). That and trying to get the nuts back on when right next to the speaker magnet was a bit tricky. :)

[Silverbullet]

ordered swaybar upgrade kit from DPNW.
ordered a bunch of minor things from DMCH (mostly rubber weather stripping pieces, new angle drive dust cap, and some spare lug nuts (ive got one that's partially stripped))

replaced the dead Front Left speaker in the car. pulled it out and hooked it up to the multimeter. 0ohms registered. wasn't a hard job by any stretch but it was a bit of a pain since the prior install job used to different nut sizes to secure the speaker (one was 9mm, other was stock 7mm). That and trying to get the nuts back on when right next to the speaker magnet was a bit tricky. :)

Been there... I put a piece of Scotch Tape in the socket, waded up... it is still sticky, and will hold the nut, then I jam it on the stud... Bingo, Easy-Piezy...

Craig

[vps3922]

Replaced front wheel bearing after starting to hear a squeaking noise coming (as I thought) from the driver's side front wheel. Turned out that the squeaking is still there, faint, but there. I seem to be a moron when pinpointing a squeaking.

The bearing in the front wheel was shot. I wonder if I should go for a "bearing day" and replace the remaining 3. Th rear ones seem to be harder to replace. Anybody done them already?

My order list from DMCNW seems to get longer.

But the drive home was awesome with my new speakers on full. I loved it and did not hear the squeaking until I had a gap between two songs. Sigh!

[Kenny_Z]

I'm still chasing a squeak. I'm almost positive it is the idle speed motor. I've eliminated all the vacuum leaks and my stethoscope traces the squeaking to the motor itself. I'm not sure if it is possible to test it with the car off.

[vps3922]

I'm still chasing a squeak. I'm almost positive it is the idle speed motor. I've eliminated all the vacuum leaks and my stethoscope traces the squeaking to the motor itself. I'm not sure if it is possible to test it with the car off.

Well, the frequency of the squeaking is increasing with speed. It is therefore definitely one of the wheels. It slows down if I come to a stop. Would the idle speed motor sound like that?

[AugustneverEnds]

Of course a simple light bulb swap was met with difficulty. Driver side rear marker light wasn't burned out; the tabs that hold the socket were broken off and the socket was lost behind the quarter panel :swear1: Had to loosen the fascia to get it back.

Front marker light sockets are both heavily corroded and the passenger side bulb base is frozen in the socket :frown: Going to NAPA today to find replacement sockets

[Flicky]

I prototyped a new 3rd break light. They are said to be water-proof. I ran the wire into the inside of the louvers from the latch hole so I can keep the wire inside and out of site. I think it will work good. I'm going to get some blackout film to go over them so it just looks black when they are not on. They are freakishly bright, this was with a 9v batter hooked up. I might wire a full voltage strobe circuit to them for tailgaters.

3102131022

[robvanderveer]

shouldnt the 3rd stop light be together with the other stop lights?

[Kenny_Z]

Well, the frequency of the squeaking is increasing with speed. It is therefore definitely one of the wheels. It slows down if I come to a stop. Would the idle speed motor sound like that?

It squeaks even when I'm not moving. It also stops squeaking when the RPMs go up.

[Flicky]

shouldnt the 3rd stop light be together with the other stop lights?

This was just running off a little 9v battery to test with. I don't have it hooked up to the brakes yet, maybe today.

[novadmc]

Installed new angle drive dust cap and secured the lower speedo cable to the speedo bracket in an attempt to smooth out the speedometer at lower speeds.
Replaced side rubber stripping on the hood and took it for a drive. Bouncy speedometer between 5 and 25 mph is better now but still there a bit. Smooth needle on anything above 25mph.

Replaced a couple of stripped lug nuts. One of these days I'll have to look into what is squealing on startup in/around thr engine.

[robvanderveer]

I started the D, drove her out of the garage, and took a trip around the block. Perhaps 5 minutes of driving, but it felt good.

[Kenny_Z]

The squeak went away. The last thing I did was replace the T fitting off the WUR. The squeak was still there after a test start up and idle. I gave up and left the car for a week. Tonight I started it up, it squeaked as usual, drove it toward the grocery store, and stopped in an empty lot partway there because my passenger door wasn't latched on the front side. When I walked back around the car I noticed that there wasn't a squeaking even though it was idling. Sure enough all the way to the store and all the way home, no squeaks. I'm going to check it tomorrow. No idea what may have fixed it but I hope it's permanently fixed.

[Flicky]

No idea what may have fixed it but I hope it's permanently fixed.

lol, the thing making the squeak finally fell off. :hysterical:

[Kenny_Z]

lol, the thing making the squeak finally fell off. :hysterical:

I didn't think of that...:dunno: :hysterical:

[robvanderveer]

perhaps the mouse got unstuck and escaped on the parking lot. :cheers:

[Kenny_Z]

Well, I did buy a mouse trap for my parents while I was in there.

[Denverdelorean]

I installed new black side moulding that i got from:
http://www.brandsport.com/trmg-pc02-01.html
A piss poor night picture is attached.

It looks great and was 60 bucks for 25 feet. It is just a hair too narrow, but without another Delorean sitting there, you wouldn't be able to tell. I may go for the 1" in the future.
http://www.brandsport.com/ptrm-11100-60-01.html

I also installed a new stereo. A simple shaft style radio from Dual. The main reason i got it was to use the front auxiliary input. I am pretty happy. I didn;t have to alter my dash at all, and it gets the job done. All my speakers work too!
http://www.amazon.com/Dual-XC4100-Dash-Cassette-Receiver/dp/B00012O6SY

31051

[Trstno1]

Well, I finally got my new brake system installed! New rotors, calipers, brake pads, brake booster, master cylinder, and ss brake lines from Hervey. I bled the brakes with my power bleeder and everything seemed fine. Excited for the D to be back on the road, I decided to take it for a quick test drive to test things. Upon pulling out of the driveway, I immediately lost brake pressure.... So, I pulled it back in and started looking for leaks. I found a leak at the left rear brake line. upon further investigation it looks as though the stainless steel (supposed to be stronger than rubber) brake line burst a hole 2 inches from the fitting spewing fluid all over the bottom of my newly detailed underside! :angry0: It has to be a manufacture defect right? I first thought that maybe there was something in left rear hard line, but quickly dismissed that due to the fact that when the brakes were bled I noted a good flow of clear brake fluid flowing out of the caliper definitely void of air bubbles or foreign contaminants prior to locking down the caliper bleeder valve.

The worst part about all this is the fact that I have to wait for another brake line to come in, and it probably wont be here before the snow flies here in Alaska. Maybe Hervey will warranty it??? :headscratch: I have an email out......


I guess I should have just ordered an extra set from the beginning just incase, but who would have thought that would have been the weak link......


Two steps forward, one step back....... :smokelot:

[robvanderveer]

Two steps forward, one step back....... :smokelot:

http://i.imgur.com/DEnD1pX.png

[hillbillydmc]

Hey, I installed Special T Auto's D120 alternator on VIN# 3270, it went on fairly easy and worked great. It showed just above 13 volts with the headlights and A/C on high at idle!

[ALEXAKOS]

I started the D, drove her out of the garage, and took a trip around the block. Perhaps 5 minutes of driving, but it felt good.

That is some cutting edge stuff Rob. Others (like me) feel this is science fiction ;)

[papanoel]

went to get gass and inflate the tires and it seems my transmission is leaking :/

don't know if its the plug where its leaking from can't reach it. and don't really know how long its been leaking for.

http://i.imgur.com/kahO9ggl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gpS8d9kl.jpg

[robvanderveer]

went to get gass and inflate the tires and it seems my transmission is leaking :/

don't know if its the plug where its leaking from can't reach it. and don't really know how long its been leaking for.

Are you sure it's oil and not coolant?

[Kukem]

Well, something is not right with my fuel sender. I have only had small bits of time to test things here and there, but there is a break in voltage to the sender. Will look into it when I lay her up for the winter. My bigger concern now is I think my CSV is going! She is having a real hard time starting cold. Getting really odd readings from the CSV with the Multimeter. :( Can't remember the numbers offhand here at work but can post them when I get home if need be. I can hear the pump when the key turns...

[vps3922]

went to get gass and inflate the tires and it seems my transmission is leaking :/

don't know if its the plug where its leaking from can't reach it. and don't really know how long its been leaking for.

http://i.imgur.com/kahO9ggl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gpS8d9kl.jpg

Sigh! That looks like mine. It took me some time and the replacement of my two coolant hoses of the auto tranny to find out that the majority of the leak was actually not ATF (pinkish) but 90W gear oil (whitish/clear) telling me that my split seal and the drive shaft seals are leaking. It might be only the latter one in your case. Clean it off with breake cleaner, dry it and check a few days later. Have a look if there is a small stream of oil coming from the drive shaft and you might only have to replace those seals. I found out with #03922 that I will have to do both and this is either one of the biggest DIY jobs or a really high bill from DMC NW. Split seal can only replaced if you remove the engine and tranny unti, part these and remove the final drive, clean, reseal and put everything back together. Had a chat with Toby from DMC NW and removal alone is 10 hours. This will add up at $125 an hour. :read::swear1:

[David T]

Sigh! That looks like mine. It took me some time and the replacement of my two coolant hoses of the auto tranny to find out that the majority of the leak was actually not ATF (pinkish) but 90W gear oil (whitish/clear) telling me that my split seal and the drive shaft seals are leaking. It might be only the latter one in your case. Clean it off with breake cleaner, dry it and check a few days later. Have a look if there is a small stream of oil coming from the drive shaft and you might only have to replace those seals. I found out with #03922 that I will have to do both and this is either one of the biggest DIY jobs or a really high bill from DMC NW. Split seal can only replaced if you remove the engine and tranny unti, part these and remove the final drive, clean, reseal and put everything back together. Had a chat with Toby from DMC NW and removal alone is 10 hours. This will add up at $125 an hour. :read::swear1:

Drain and refill with fresh 85W-90 gear oil. Do not overfill. If the output seals leak you have to replace the seals but you may also have to either put Redi-Sleeves on the output flanges or replace them. If the shaft the flange fits on is loose you may have to reset the backlash. If it is too loose you will continue to ruin seals and leak. To properly set the backlash the transmission has to come out and be disassembled. If it is a slow leak (and most DO leak) put some cardboard or kitty litter under the car. You do not have to remove the motor to remove the transmission. I think you misunderstood, the whole job can be done in 10 hours.

[DMCMW Dave]

went to get gass and inflate the tires and it seems my transmission is leaking :/

]

Most common- axle seals
Next most common - drain plug.

[vps3922]

Drain and refill with fresh 85W-90 gear oil. Do not overfill. If the output seals leak you have to replace the seals but you may also have to either put Redi-Sleeves on the output flanges or replace them. If the shaft the flange fits on is loose you may have to reset the backlash. If it is too loose you will continue to ruin seals and leak. To properly set the backlash the transmission has to come out and be disassembled. If it is a slow leak (and most DO leak) put some cardboard or kitty litter under the car. You do not have to remove the motor to remove the transmission. I think you misunderstood, the whole job can be done in 10 hours.

I heard from Toby at DMC NW about the Speedi-Sleeves/Redi-Sleeves. Can this get installed with the final drive in the car? Is this accessible when replacing the output shaft seals? It might be a first attempt to close the leak. I still hope that it is not the split seal. But I can carry this discussion on in a different thread as it does not really belong here.

[jwrayth]

Can this get installed with the final drive in the car? Is this accessible when replacing the output shaft seals? It might be a first attempt to close the leak. I still hope that it is not the split seal. But I can carry this discussion on in a different thread as it does not really belong here.

Yes, totally doable. I did it this summer myself as my drive axles were leaking and I wanted to be as thorough as possible. The sleeve goes over the drive flange (110539), and can be done on the bench. Be sure to clean it well first, and seal with with some Loctite 243.

[vps3922]

Yes, totally doable. I did it this summer myself as my drive axles were leaking and I wanted to be as thorough as possible. The sleeve goes over the drive flange (110539), and can be done on the bench. Be sure to clean it well first, and seal with with some Loctite 243.

Great info. Thanks!!

Have these been Speedi-Sleeves 99177, by any chance?

[DMC5180]

99169 is the one you want for drive axel flange seals. It also fits the crankshaft pulley ( timing cover seal).

99177 is for the auto trans output shaft seal

Info is from the www.skfpartsinfo.com

listing for Delorean.

[vps3922]

99169 is the one you want for drive axel flange seals. It also fits the crankshaft pulley ( timing cover seal).

99177 is for the auto trans output shaft seal

Info is from the www.skfpartsinfo.com

listing for Delorean.

Well, I actually have an automatic. It should therefore be the correct one, correct?

[vps3922]

Well, I actually have an automatic. It should therefore be the correct one, correct?

Ups, you were correct. Toby Peterson just confirmed: SKF 99165. Thanks again!

[DMC5180]

Ups, you were correct. Toby Peterson just confirmed: SKF 99165. Thanks again!

I assume you meant 99169

[papanoel]

Most common- axle seals
Next most common - drain plug.

Good to know. Should I be worried about how much transmission fluid I've lost? Seems like very little.

[DavidProehl]

Starting to feel clairvoyant with this car. Was reading a thread a couple weeks ago about a failing alternator and it looked just like mine, a Motorola with some gooey drip. I decided it was time to replace mine, and was planning to do so the weekend of Nov 9th when my wife is out of town.

Well, I am registered for a car show today that is 140 miles away and as I am driving away from my house my voltmeter looks like this:

31119

Ouch. Put a multimeter on it and it only registers 11.4v. No car show for me today.

One small consolation is that my insurance covers car show fees for stuff like this.

[JohnZ]

Brushed the stainless steel with soft and sweet sheepskin!

er... not in the way you can imagine...

311293113031131

:8ball:

[ALEXAKOS]

Brushed the stainless steel with soft and sweet sheepskin!

er... not in the way you can imagine...

311293113031131

:8ball:

Hehehe,
You mean sheep wool brushing.... The way you wrote "sweet sheep skin".... Makes it a bit awkward:p

i bet the sheep liked the feeling going "staaaaaaainleeeeeeesss"

[robvanderveer]

i bet the sheep liked the feeling going "staaaaaaainleeeeeeesss"
Mèh... :sleeping:

[JohnZ]

Later on I collected enough wool from the fenders I could build up a whole sheep!

:spank:

[ALEXAKOS]

Later on I collected enough wool from the fenders I could build up a whole sheep!

:spank:

Knit a Delo cover Instead:)

[JohnZ]

Knit a Delo cover Instead:)

:giggle:

anyway... a very northern Ireland-ish experience! Makes the D feel at home!

:D

[novadmc]

got the car up on ramps and pulled the swaybar to replace the bushings. bushings were defnintely worn/ripped:

31149

planning to lightly sand and paint the swaybar before i put it back on with all new poly bushings from DPNW. might hit the front end recall kit plates with a light sanding and black paint while im under there to protect them a bit more. surprisingly not nearly as much rust down there as i expected there would be.

hopefully replacing these gets rid of the clunk noise i get when cornering

[Bitsyncmaster]

got the car up on ramps and pulled the swaybar to replace the bushings. bushings were defnintely worn/ripped:

31149

planning to lightly sand and paint the swaybar before i put it back on with all new poly bushings from DPNW. might hit the front end recall kit plates with a light sanding and black paint while im under there to protect them a bit more. surprisingly not nearly as much rust down there as i expected there would be.

hopefully replacing these gets rid of the clunk noise i get when cornering

Yours look pretty good compared to mine. I had to split the steel bushing to get the old ones off because of rust. The steel bushing is already split (just a rolled tube) so just a tap with a cold chisel opened them up.

[papanoel]

Are you sure it's oil and not coolant?

Fairly certain But i will check again.

[vps3922]

I assume you meant 99169

Nope, Toby said that you need 99165 for the drive axle shaft as it is 1.656 inches (42.6 mm).

[DMC5180]

Good luck with that. 99165 is not a listed number on the SKF applications website for delorean. 99169 is, and I have used them on my manual transmission. Is an automatic?

[jwrayth]

Good luck with that. 99165 is not a listed number on the SKF applications website for delorean. 99169 is, and I have used them on my manual transmission. Is an automatic?

Having just done this on my 5-speed this summer, I can confirm that SKF Speed Sleeve CR 99169 is the correct part for the drive-shafts flange.

[vps3922]

31176
Good luck with that. 99165 is not a listed number on the SKF applications website for delorean. 99169 is, and I have used them on my manual transmission. Is an automatic?

Yes, it is an automatic.

I guess I will see. I trusted Toby Peterson on that one as they did replace a few already in his shop. I'll keep y'all updated.

[5875]

- Did the last oil change before winter storage
- Replaced the original oil sending unit with a new 77-81 Corvette unit...the oil guage now works like a charm and has a semi reliable reading, no longer through the roof reading over 80!
- Added SS DeLorean letters to the bumper
- Gave it a good wash and took it out for some fall pictures

It's going into storage next week for a long winter....:cry:

311883118931190

[Rich_NYS]

Visited mine at it's storage location, started it, and began mentally preparing for winter storage....sucks already (you guys never mentioned anything about separation-anxiety...WTH?!) :tantrum:

[Jonathan]

Hmmm... let me give you a couple hints...

Did some cleaning, wiping and vacuuming...

Put the battery in the basement...

Added fuel stabilizer...

Put the cover on it...

Yes, prepared it for the inevitable.

Wake me up when Spring is here!

31192

[Alan]

Hmmm... let me give you a couple hints...

Did some cleaning, wiping and vacuuming...

Put the battery in the basement...

Added fuel stabilizer...

Put the cover on it...

Yes, prepared it for the inevitable.

Wake me up when Spring is here!

31192

That's today?

[Nicholas R]

You all are depressing me with this winter storage talk. Fall/summer weather is finally here in Florida meaning the second nice driving season is here! :D truthfully, I don't like driving in the middle of the summer here anywhere near as much as I do in the February-May months, and the September-November months.

[ALEXAKOS]

So there are the "put away" months for everyone. ;)

[vps3922]

Visited mine at it's storage location, started it, and began mentally preparing for winter storage....sucks already (you guys never mentioned anything about separation-anxiety...WTH?!) :tantrum:

Great post! That made my day!:aniclap:

[vps3922]

Hmmm... let me give you a couple hints...

Did some cleaning, wiping and vacuuming...

Put the battery in the basement...

Added fuel stabilizer...

Put the cover on it...

Yes, prepared it for the inevitable.

Wake me up when Spring is here!

31192

Wow, Jonathan, snow already? Were are you located?

[Denverdelorean]

even though I live in Colorado, I avoid winter storage. We have PLENTY of drivable days here and a little snow won't hurt the stainless.

[refugeefromcalif]

a little snow won't hurt the stainless.

A little snow never hurt mine... :tongue2:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=15911&d=1358453205

George

[Rich_NYS]

even though I live in Colorado, I avoid winter storage. We have PLENTY of drivable days here and a little snow won't hurt the stainless.

The state I live in is addicted to road salt, so: NY winter = corrosion.

[Ratrace427]

I fell like my car is running better now than it has ever ran and i wanted to share. I live in a state that does not have emission regulations so i took the catalytic converter out a few weeks ago. When it was out i dug all the honeycomb material out of the inside before putting it back in. I checked my mileage because it runs much better now but the mileage was still at 25 mpg. I noticed that the air box now collapsed when giving it gas so i put a K and N filter in. The box no longer collapses and it runs even better. When i give it gas now i can hear the air whistle into the intake. Its really awesome! If you can do this i recommend it. The car looks completely stock and i must have picked up 10 ponies. I wonder? It runs great! I am going to check my mileage again. I have owned my car almost a decade and i should have done this a long time ago. Wow! I need a dino to check this power output.

[Trstno1]

Well, I finally got that pesky blown SS brake line replaced and was able to take the D on its maiden voyage around the neighborhood with the new brake system!! :nana2:

The brakes worked great! Though now I have noticed a very pronounced metallic rattle coming from the engine compartment on acceleration. It sounds like a loose metal bracket or something on the passenger side of the engine. I will be looking for loose things tomorrow. Any guesses or thoughts as to what I may find or what it may be?

I really hope its not some internal problem with the engine.....:smokelot:

[sdg3205]

I bet the rattle is the engine grates. They are held in with retention strips that do very little retaining.

[Trstno1]

I bet the rattle is the engine grates. They are held in with retention strips that do very little retaining.

What are engine grates and where exactly are they located?

Also, If I cannot find the culprit tomorrow I will post a youtube video...

[sdg3205]

Sorry, they are the 4 metal grates on the lower engine cover.

[Trstno1]

Sorry, they are the 4 metal grates on the lower engine cover.

ahhhh, I will definately check that. Good guess! Anyone else?

[Ratrace427]

Old gas? Detonation? I have not read any back story on your car but i have experienced some bad detonation with my car and it can rattle bad. Technically it would be called pinging. Fuel system problems would be the culprit. Other than that i cant think of anything that would make a sound from back there. Maybe a loose idler pulley but that would be all the time not just acceleration.

[DMC5180]

I've had the RH muffler heat shield support bracket fail (spot welds let go). The two separate pieces bounced off one another which caused a rattle.

[Ratrace427]

oh yeah, i know what you are talking about. That is exactly what i have now but i cant hear it from inside and that would also be all the time not just under acceleration. Something to check though, because those spot welds break. I need to have that fixed. LOL i have thought that for a decade now.

[DMC5180]

oh yeah, i know what you are talking about. That is exactly what i have now but i cant hear it from inside and that would also be all the time not just under acceleration. Something to check though, because those spot welds break. I need to have that fixed. LOL i have thought that for a decade now.

I just drilled through the 2 spot weld locations and bolted it together with #10 (3/16) bolts. Also check your transmission mount brackets, you might have a broken one which can cause a nasty vibration rattle under torque load if it's making hard contact.

[Jonathan]

That's today?


Wow, Jonathan, snow already? Were are you located?

Nah, picture from last year. Winter is coming, but it isn't here quite yet. I've got some things I need to attend to in the meantime, so figured I'd put the car away a bit early.


What are engine grates and where exactly are they located?

Also, If I cannot find the culprit tomorrow I will post a youtube video...

Have a look through the attachment in the first post here and see if that helps you figure out which ones you might be missing.

If you need more than one or two individual retaining strips, I'd recommend buying the entire kit. Once you buy more than the first couple on their own, you've spent the same amount as getting the entire set, including a bag of the clips.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6199-How-To-Locations-of-lower-engine-cover-retaining-strips

[DavidProehl]

Today I rigged up some magnets to my OUTATIME plate so that I could display it on the rear without having to mess with screws.

Doesn't look as clean as removing the bezel properly, but it only takes 5 seconds to put on and take off.

3119431195


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtpNp4vmPHg

[Rich]

Today I rigged up some magnets to my OUTATIME plate so that I could display it on the rear without having to mess with screws.

Clever! Nice job and good explanation.

Will put this upgrade on my winter-fixit list.

[Trstno1]

Well, I finally got that pesky blown SS brake line replaced and was able to take the D on its maiden voyage around the neighborhood with the new brake system!! :nana2:

The brakes worked great! Though now I have noticed a very pronounced metallic rattle coming from the engine compartment on acceleration. It sounds like a loose metal bracket or something on the passenger side of the engine. I will be looking for loose things tomorrow. Any guesses or thoughts as to what I may find or what it may be?

I really hope its not some internal problem with the engine.....:smokelot:



Alright guys...

I have checked for everything loose. and only found a couple of small items..... It was not the engine grates, or any metal bracket I could lay a hand on and shake. I was missing a bolt on an exhaust heat shield, but I replaced that. Could this be an old gas, detonation issue? Sounds like a metal bracket rattling on acceleration. it also sounds like it internal....but cant quite tell......

At this point Im getting worried.....

Can anyone name that sound?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVbx-fYjg2M

Thanks,

[Rich_NYS]

Alright guys...

Can anyone name that sound?

Thanks,

I'm not one of the experts here, just taking a guess: is it only when in gear?

It reminds me a little of the sound I once heard from a loose flywheel bolt (or maybe it was a cracked flywheel....don't recall exactly.)

[Hokie]

At this point Im getting worried.....

Can anyone name that sound?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVbx-fYjg2M

Thanks,

Check your upper right muffler bracket. These often break in the middle and, as I learned recently, afterwards fall against the alternator and cause a racket just like the one in your video.

[sdg3205]

Are your trailing arm dust shields on nice and tight? They can rattle and squeal.

Is your timing properly set?

[Trstno1]

I'm not one of the experts here, just taking a guess: is it only when in gear?

It reminds me a little of the sound I once heard from a loose flywheel bolt (or maybe it was a cracked flywheel....don't recall exactly.)

No, the sound is there in gear or not in gear...... If I rev the engine, it's there.

[Trstno1]

Are your trailing arm dust shields on nice and tight? They can rattle and squeal.

Is your timing properly set?

Dust shields nice and tight, not really sure about the timing though....

[Jonathan]

Can anyone name that sound?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVbx-fYjg2M

Thanks,

Maybe some kids from down the street tossed a couple little stones or whatever into your tailpipes? Stick a vacuum cleaner hose in there and find out (or one of those remote camera inspection tools if you have one).

[papanoel]

This was last sunday but its the kind of story people wouldn't believe.

I was driving to a gas station in NYC, in Harlem. My car decided nows a good time to shred the alternator belt. Good thing I had a spare. Called up my dad to help me out. We pushed the car to a parking spot nearby and started working. As we started working someone started blasting the Back to the Future soundtrack from their window. We couldn't tell which one. But it was really loud. And he didnt play just one song. He played nearly the entire thing as we worked on the car. We finished before it got to the end. Ridiculous.

[Lenny]

You all are depressing me with this winter storage talk. Fall/summer weather is finally here in Florida meaning the second nice driving season is here! :D truthfully, I don't like driving in the middle of the summer here anywhere near as much as I do in the February-May months, and the September-November months.

I agree, I hate driving in the summer. driving with temps in the 60's & 70's is great. Not is the time for Florida Driving. :yesss:

I feel bad for the northern owners having to lock up their cars for months just when we get to really enjoy ours.

[Lenny]

This was last sunday but its the kind of story people wouldn't believe.

I was driving to a gas station in NYC, in Harlem. My car decided nows a good time to shred the alternator belt. Good thing I had a spare. Called up my dad to help me out. We pushed the car to a parking spot nearby and started working. As we started working someone started blasting the Back to the Future soundtrack from their window. We couldn't tell which one. But it was really loud. And he didnt play just one song. He played nearly the entire thing as we worked on the car. We finished before it got to the end. Ridiculous.

You made their day, hell, probably their year. I'll bet they shot video on their phone and will talk about it... "You should've seen it there was a DeLorean right outside my window...."

[Bitsyncmaster]

Installed a Battery cutoff relay into the battery compartment. This is a latching solenoid (relay) so it stays on or off when the control voltage is removed. I have a finished circuit board to control it but have not decided where to mount that yet.

[Rich]

Alright guys...

I have checked for everything loose. and only found a couple of small items..... It was not the engine grates, or any metal bracket I could lay a hand on and shake. I was missing a bolt on an exhaust heat shield, but I replaced that. Could this be an old gas, detonation issue? Sounds like a metal bracket rattling on acceleration. it also sounds like it internal....but cant quite tell......

At this point Im getting worried.....

Can anyone name that sound?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVbx-fYjg2M

Thanks,

Yes, I can hear that sound on your video.
No, I don't know what it is.
It sounds like it does not depend on the car moving, seems like it occurs at a specific engine speed range. Try to confirm that. If so, then a simple hose-in-the-ear "stethoscope" survey of the engine bay - with a helper holding the throttle linkage just so -may be useful. Seems primitive but it actually works pretty well. Be careful of the belts while probing.

PS, in the video your brake lights seemed dim/off? Did you drive into your garage using the e-brake or are your brake lights busted? Check/fix before driving.

[Trstno1]

Yes, I can hear that sound on your video.
No, I don't know what it is.
It sounds like it does not depend on the car moving, seems like it occurs at a specific engine speed range. Try to confirm that. If so, then a simple hose-in-the-ear "stethoscope" survey of the engine bay - with a helper holding the throttle linkage just so -may be useful. Seems primitive but it actually works pretty well. Be careful of the belts while probing.

PS, in the video your brake lights seemed dim/off? Did you drive into your garage using the e-brake or are your brake lights busted? Check/fix before driving.

Yes! The car does not need to be moving, though the noise sounds like its more pronounced when it does. I can reproduce some of the noise by just slightly revving the engine at a stand still. If I were to guess, the noise starts at about 12-1500 rpm. Since the noise seems to be coming from the middle of the engine I removed the air box to get a little more insight. It almost seems like the noise is emanating from either the middle rear of the engine, or the RH valve cover, but not really sure. I was thinking of starting to remove belts to discount the pulleys, ac compressor, alternator and water pump. I will get a piece of hose today and start probing. Very nervous, as I am not an engine guy! What are some of the worst case scenarios? I don't remember hearing this noise when I bought it, but then again maybe I was just mesmerized that it actually ran...

Good observation on the tail lights. They seem to be intermittent. I think the tail lights just need new boards... The wiring has been tested and is good, the boards are old, warped, and only work when they want to. I can mess with them and they work until I hit the next bump...... I am going to order some PJ Grady boards here soon. But yes, it will definitely not be on any major road until....

[Rich_NYS]

Yes! The car does not need to be moving, though the noise sounds like its more pronounced when it does. I can reproduce some of the noise by just slightly revving the engine at a stand still. If I were to guess, the noise starts at about 12-1500 rpm. Since the noise seems to be coming from the middle of the engine I removed the air box to get a little more insight. It almost seems like the noise is emanating from either the middle rear of the engine, or the RH valve cover, but not really sure. ..

I'm still thinking about the flywheel, but I'm no pro....anybody here able to weigh in on that thought??

[Trstno1]

I'm still thinking about the flywheel, but I'm no pro....anybody here able to weigh in on that thought??

Man I hope that's not the case......

Not sure if it's related but I also think I have a main rear seal leak due to a small oil leak that seems to be coming from between where the engine and transmission mate up. I've just been dreading removing the transmission due to being a complete noob.... Though I suppose I would be able to check the flywheel and flex plate when I go in to replace the rear mail seal.....

It should also be noted that I really don't know the condition of the fuel system. I was going to start with the fuel system after the brakes were finished, but this noise has stolen my attention. Could a clogged injector resulting in a poorly working cylinder potentially create this sound?

I will conduct a hose listening test today and report back my findings for noise location.....

[Trstno1]

Check your upper right muffler bracket. These often break in the middle and, as I learned recently, afterwards fall against the alternator and cause a racket just like the one in your video.

I checked the brackets and everything seemed in order...

[DMCMW Dave]

Did you check the heat shields on the crossover pipe? That's what it sounds like to me. There are two shields and when a bolt breaks or rusts through they will rattle intermittently with engine speed.

[Trstno1]

Did you check the heat shields on the crossover pipe? That's what it sounds like to me. There are two shields and when a bolt breaks or rusts through they will rattle intermittently with engine speed.

One of the heat shied bolts on the crossover were missing. I replaced it, but the sound still remains.......

[DMCMW Dave]

One of the heat shied bolts on the crossover were missing. I replaced it, but the sound still remains.......

Generally a cracked flex plate noise will change dramatically or even go away when the car is in gear vs. in neutral.

Start tapping things with a rubber mallet.

I've heard similar noises from a car with a catalytic converter that melted the honecomb and dumped a bunch of chunks into the muffler. The only really good way to find that is take off the muffler and shake it (you can also then look into the converter with a light and a mirror, but it's hard to see if the converter is still on the car due to the elbow). If that's the problem it's VERY difficult to get the parts back out of the muffler due to the way it is chambered inside.

[Rich]

One of my door rub strips had slowly come loose in the middle. The other one wasn't like new, either.

Both strips are now back on tight and straight. 3M Super Strength Molding Tape is my friend today.

[Trstno1]

Generally a cracked flex plate noise will change dramatically or even go away when the car is in gear vs. in neutral.

Start tapping things with a rubber mallet.

I've heard similar noises from a car with a catalytic converter that melted the honecomb and dumped a bunch of chunks into the muffler. The only really good way to find that is take off the muffler and shake it (you can also then look into the converter with a light and a mirror, but it's hard to see if the converter is still on the car due to the elbow). If that's the problem it's VERY difficult to get the parts back out of the muffler due to the way it is chambered inside.

So, I conducted the hose test and still could not locate the originating point of the sound..... I decided to start eliminating components. I removed the compressor belt and it still had the sound. Then I took the alternator belt off, and sound is gone! So....I guess I either have an issue with the alternator or the water pump. I can spin both the water pump pully and the alternator individually and they seem fine with no sound. Though it does look like the finned pully on the alternator doesn't spin quite true. It seems a bit warped. I wonder if that could be the issue.

I put the alternator belt back on and tightened it up and boy does it squeal now! Is it possible to tighten it up too much???? How tight should the tension be on these? I thought it was a little loose before I took it off, but tightening it seems to really make either the alternator or water pump very unhappy..... I wonder if the PO loosened the belt just enough to get rid of most of sound in order to sell it??

I'm not really sure of my next step here.....

[Rich_NYS]

I'm not really sure of my next step here.....

If you want to find if the noise is in the water pump vs. alternator, you can use a lot of different things as a "listening rod."

I've used a long 3/8" extension, piece of rebar...etc. Rest one end on either component and hold the other end "cupped" to your ear....you should easily hear what you're looking for.

My explanation might not be so good, here's a video link (the first minute is pretty goofy, worthwhile to skip over it.)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mpNRJ7m-c8

The good news is that you're well on your way to it not being a huge deal! :thumbup:

[Rich]

I put the alternator belt back on and tightened it up and boy does it squeal now! Is it possible to tighten it up too much???? How tight should the tension be on these? I thought it was a little loose before I took it off, but tightening it seems to really make either the alternator or water pump very unhappy..... I wonder if the PO loosened the belt just enough to get rid of most of sound in order to sell it??

It's a little late for the advice but you might have wanted to push against the free span of the belt to get a feel for the tightness before you made your adjustments.

True belt squeal is due to low tension - belt is slipping over at least one of the pulleys.

Water pump or alternator noise are possible but usually sound more like a bad bearing, sort of a grinding noise, lower pitch.

As for setting the tension try pushing on the top span of the belt midway with your thumb. Push hard. Shoot for ~1/2in. deflection as measured from a straightedge across the top of the pulleys. Anybody can chime in with a better deflection value or method.

PS, while you are there think about replacing the belt unless you know it's younger than that.

[papanoel]

My fuel pump is keeping me on my toes. the loud constant humming has gone away even when the car has been running for a while.
When I went to start it yesterday and put the key into the accessory position the fuel pump came on as it normally does but stayed on for a good 20 seconds. And I'm the cold start issue is still present.

[vps3922]

Started the car on Saturday again after 2.5 weeks having it sit. Man, what a rough start again. I still have to troubleshoot my cold start issue. Got a few good ideas from reading through the forum and will check my Thermo Switch as soon as possible. I have the feeling that it might be on its way out and work intermittent.
Took the car for a spin around the block to get the fluids moving at least a bit. COntemplating to take the car to a car wash as the weather sucks and I cannot wash it in front of my garage (or in the garage), but still want to have it in nice shape for winter.

[Kenny_Z]

I took her to dinner and on the way home I lost my headlights. Looks like my headlight switch finally gave out. It's a part that I kept thinking I should replace but never did. Oh well, it made it 32 years this month at least.

[robvanderveer]

Today I took the spare tire to a tire shop as it was at least 15 years old. So I had it checked. The man working at the shop told me it was perfectly ok for a spare. So I actually didn't spend any more or changed a thing to my car... :).

[ALEXAKOS]

Today I took the spare tire to a tire shop as it was at least 15 years old. So I had it checked. The man working at the shop told me it was perfectly ok for a spare. So I actually didn't spend any more or changed a thing to my car... :).

Did you mark the date so you go for your next checkup in 15 years?

[Rich_NYS]

So, I conducted the hose test and still could not locate the originating point of the sound..... I decided to start eliminating components. I removed the compressor belt and it still had the sound. Then I took the alternator belt off, and sound is gone! So....I guess I either have an issue with the alternator or the water pump. I can spin both the water pump pully and the alternator individually and they seem fine with no sound. Though it does look like the finned pully on the alternator doesn't spin quite true. It seems a bit warped. I wonder if that could be the issue.

I put the alternator belt back on and tightened it up and boy does it squeal now! Is it possible to tighten it up too much???? How tight should the tension be on these? I thought it was a little loose before I took it off, but tightening it seems to really make either the alternator or water pump very unhappy..... I wonder if the PO loosened the belt just enough to get rid of most of sound in order to sell it??

I'm not really sure of my next step here.....

What's the update on the noise?

[Trstno1]

What's the update on the noise?

to be honest, Im still a bit stuck..... I have used a rubber hose line to my ear to isolate the sound, but couldnt tell. Tomorrow I will try a screw driver and if that doesnt work I was thinking of purchases a stethoscope. I would really like to find the source of the sound prior to throwing money at parts that don't need replaced......

Unfortunately the water pump and the alternator is about the same price...... One with much more labor to replace than the other.

I appreciate the thought though and will accept any new advice that may come across regarding the situation. I will also post an update when the problem is finally put to bed.

Thanks.

[Farrar]

...covered it.

Couldn't help but notice stuff leaking out of the transmission. And some coolant on the floor, too. Oh, well. *shrug*

[novadmc]

noticed a bit of oil on the garage floor after getting back from the local Cars and Coffee... and some wetness/coolant around the bottom of the water pump. looks like a new water pump and new rear main seal are in my near future.

[robvanderveer]

...covered it.

Couldn't help but notice stuff leaking out of the transmission. And some coolant on the floor, too. Oh, well. *shrug*

Alfa Romeo owners start to worry when it stops leaking. That usually means that the engine is out of oil.

[vps3922]

Thought through my approach to my cold start issue. I had the same happening on my VW Westfalia camper van and we ended up replacing the thermal switch on the Westfalia, which tells the system that the car is cold and the engine will need more gas. It sits in the coolant system and picks up the temperature from the coolant.
I read that the DeLorean has the same with the Temp sensor close to the coolant pump and that it is usually the first thing to look/replace when having a cold start issue. What I did manually (or better said with my foot) by pushing down the gas pedal while cranking in order to push more fuel into the engine is basically what the CSV is doing when the car starts cold. In order to do this the CSV needs to get the circuit grounded by the Temp II sensor while starting, which does so when cold. I measured resistance through the sensor and it was fine when the engine was cold yesterday, but I noticed that the cable connector was not sitting 100% correctly. I made sure that there was no dirt in it and properly seated it. I made sure that the rubber cover is properly seated as well. And guess what: the car fired right up although it had not been running for 1 week, which usually gave me a really rough start.

I have the feeling that we yanked a bit on the cable tree when installing the SS fuel lines and probably disconnected the connector from the Temp II, which you cannot see if the rubber cover is still sitting on the Temp II housing.

I will not call the search off just now and will monitor, but I am confident that it will continue to work after my initial test.

[Trstno1]

I just got my refinished binnacle back from the Vynl repair shop and installed it back on the car! It really turned out good!!! No more cracks.....

It was the best $100 I've ever spent" :biggrin:

Now, if I can just get that pesky engine noise to go away..... I'm still waiting on my engine stethoscope to arrive in the mail......

[Kukem]

Drained the tank and pulled the battery, (which was dead, for some reason...) and prepared for winter. :( They are calling for snow. Pulled out my "Winter Project List" and started reviewing it.

[DMC5180]

Drained the tank and pulled the battery, (which was dead, for some reason...) and prepared for winter. :( They are calling for snow. Pulled out my "Winter Project List" and started reviewing it.

When was the last time you drove it or ran the engine?

[DMC5180]

noticed a bit of oil on the garage floor after getting back from the local Cars and Coffee... and some wetness/coolant around the bottom of the water pump. looks like a new water pump and new rear main seal are in my near future.

Check the weep hole behind the water pump pulley. If it's wet plan for a pump. If dry it's more likely the VOD coupler hose clamps need tightening.

[novadmc]

Check the weep hole behind the water pump pulley. If it's wet plan for a pump. If dry it's more likely the VOD coupler hose clamps need tightening.

yep. thats what i did. clamps were nice tight and dry (insert any joke you want there). weep hole was definitely damp.

[Kukem]

When was the last time you drove it or ran the engine?

A week or so before I laid it up. Might have been 12 days. I jumped it to move it, and it started right up. Wonder if that is part of my cold start issue... Also, I wasn't able to get all the gas out of the tank. This is my first winter with the car, so is this a big issue?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I wired up my battery cutoff relay. Getting ready to put the center console back on but thinking about cleaning up that rats nest (wiring) under the radio. It looks like the radio install and the power antenna wires were just wrapped and taped when they installed it. To clean it up I should pull the radio mounting bracket.

[Rich]

A week or so before I laid it up. Might have been 12 days. I jumped it to move it, and it started right up. Wonder if that is part of my cold start issue... Also, I wasn't able to get all the gas out of the tank. This is my first winter with the car, so is this a big issue?

Add some fuel stabilizer (Stabil is one kind) if you don't plan to run it for >3months. Try to get it into the engine (start and run long enough to warm engine).

A good battery should last longer than 12 days between starts in a D unless you left something "on". Even if you are still running the OE door lock module.

So you might be looking at a new battery this winter.

[Kukem]

Thanks, Rich. I will look into the battery. I have a list of stuff I want to do, so I will add it to the list. I don't have enough fuel to get the car to start. It tries, catches and dies. There is that small of an amount in the tank. I can see some still in there though. Still worth running the stabilizer through it? I'm game if I should.

[John U]

Got her ready for the trick or treaters...and carved a pumpkin!

[Rich]

Thanks, Rich. I will look into the battery. I have a list of stuff I want to do, so I will add it to the list. I don't have enough fuel to get the car to start. It tries, catches and dies. There is that small of an amount in the tank. I can see some still in there though. Still worth running the stabilizer through it? I'm game if I should.

Only a little bit of stabilizer, then. Read the directions and ration it according to what's in the tank. A little Stabil goes a long way. You really do want to get it thru the engine whenever you can get her to go, so as not to have the gas in the plumbing start to cause problems by springtime. Not critical, assuming the fuel system is in decent shape, just a good idea.

[SIMid]

...and carved a pumpkin!

Kudos for that masterpiece!

[Jonathan]

Only a little bit of stabilizer, then. Read the directions and ration it according to what's in the tank. A little Stabil goes a long way. You really do want to get it thru the engine whenever you can get her to go, so as not to have the gas in the plumbing start to cause problems by springtime. Not critical, assuming the fuel system is in decent shape, just a good idea.

I agree with Rich on this. Getting the fuel stabilizer into the lines to and around the engine and not just the tank that is. If the car sits for the winter season, I think it's those little lines that would be the first to become problematic and not the tank itself. Long term the tank gets messy, but in a short storage window, those lines are the focus. Similar for your lawnmower or snowblower (which I'll add stabilizer to and then run until it runs out of gas.) With the D, run it with stabilizer in the tank until it gets warm and you know it's throughout. Driving it while doing this is good to so that taking a couple corners sloshes the fuel around and mixes up the stabilizer with it.

[John U]

Kudos for that masterpiece!

Thanks...i surprised even myself!

[Kukem]

Thanks again, Rich... and you too, Jonathan. I will go and get the stabilizer this weekend. May do a small mix and try to devise a way to get it into the system without having to put a lot of gas back into the tank. Getting it out the first time was not a great experience.

[DMC5180]

You really don't need to drain the tank again. Just add some stabil too a gallon of gas. Poor it in fire up the engine for a minute and your good to go.

Frankly I've never bothered with adding stabil or draining the tank for winter storage over my 20 year ownership. My car is driven annually though. It would be a different story if I had to park it for years. Where I do winterize or long term storage is in small engines with carburators. Idle jets and float bowls love to get gunked up. Typically I will drain them dry. This reminds me it's time too poor the gas out my weed whacker.😜

[Mark D]

Celebrated 6 years of ownership today by (almost) finishing my new winter storage garage in the back yard. Hopefully I'm 100% done before the snow comes.

[Mike F]

This arrived today:

31360

Nothing like a little piece of mind, just in case! My cat, Alice, was not included with this shipment. :)

[Rich_NYS]

-Removed the angle drive.

-Removed one of the axles, preparing for boot replacements.

-Admired it, and reveled in the glory of having it parked in my garage. :rock_on:

[Pascal]

Today I made a cover for the ignition resistors and the light switch in the engine bay.
I think the bare fixture of the ignition resistors is a real eyesore.

I made a cover of stainless steel and I am pleased with the way it looks.

[DMCMW Dave]

Today I made a cover for the ignition resistors and the light switch in the engine bay.
I think the bare fixture of the ignition resistors is a real eyesore.

I made a cover of stainless steel and I am pleased with the way it looks.

Keep an eye on that wiring. Those resistors get VERY hot. The cover box should be more ventilated.

[Pascal]

Keep an eye on that wiring. Those resistors get VERY hot. The cover box should be more ventilated.

Thanks for the tip Dave.
I already removed the box.
I didn't realise that the resistors were getting that hot.
So I guess it is better to keep the resistors uncovered?

[DMCMW Dave]

Thanks for the tip Dave.
I already removed the box.
I didn't realise that the resistors were getting that hot.
So I guess it is better to keep the resistors uncovered?

I've seen nice covers made of stainless screen, or with the sides and bottom open.

[Pascal]

I've seen nice covers made of stainless screen, or with the sides and bottom open.

Ok, back to the drawing board.
Stainless screen is a good idea. Let's see if I can find some screen or mesh. Otherwise I'll start drilling a lot of holes in the box I already made.
This time I'll post the result before fixing it to the car ;).

[Pascal]

Keep an eye on that wiring. Those resistors get VERY hot. The cover box should be more ventilated.

Did some drilling this evening.
Do you reckon with these holes the box will be enough ventilated?

[DMCMW Dave]

Did some drilling this evening.
Do you reckon with these holes the box will be enough ventilated?

Is the bottom wide open? Should be OK, nothing is as good as out in the open but this is much better than a closed box.

[Pascal]

Is the bottom wide open? Should be OK, nothing is as good as out in the open but this is much better than a closed box.

Thanks a lot Dave for your advice.
The bottom is wide open.

I will give it a try and keep a close eye on the wiring.

[vps3922]

Took her to work today to see if the cold start issue has been resolved. And it is! Whohoo! Fired right up after 1.5 weeks. :headbang:

Next up: final drive seals.

[sdg3205]

Volker - what was the issue?

[vps3922]

Volker - what was the issue?

We must have tugged on the cable tree when we removed and re-seated the CSV and WUR plugs, which caused the connector for the Temp II Sensor to slip off, but hide the fact by keeping the rubber boot still slightly attached to the back of the sensor.

[sdg3205]

We must have tugged on the cable tree when we removed and re-seated the CSV and WUR plugs, which caused the connector for the Temp II Sensor to slip off, but hide the fact by keeping the rubber boot still slightly attached to the back of the sensor.

The sensor on the water pump?

[vps3922]

The sensor on the water pump?

Yes. The Thermal Time Switch. I always confuse the naming for my two cars (Temp II is on the VW Vanagon but it has the same function).

[ALEXAKOS]

Keep an eye on that wiring. Those resistors get VERY hot. The cover box should be more ventilated.

Bless you Dave. The man at the right place. I was just wondering why my resistors were getting so hot and smelled. Thought I had a short somewhere.

But is it natural to heat up all the attached wiring harness that much to the point of smelling.? It does not smell like burnt. Just like very hot wiring. I found that a bit extreme.

[Rich_NYS]

-Replaced the broken trip reset shaft.
-Polished the gauge cluster lens.
-Installed the Stephen fiberglass repro binnacle for pics and to decide if I want to keep it (versus original repaired binnacle.)

[novadmc]

drove it to the local Cars and Coffee meetup. left the house with ~1/4 of gas in the tank. got home with ~1/2 tank. i didn't stop at the gas station.... :8ball:

probably will add the updated DMC fuel pump/sender combo to my winter to-do-list with that gauge being so inaccurate at times.

[JohnZ]

Reached 500 miles on the partial odometer since I started driving the car! What a nice outcome! :cheers:

then I also became aware that if you park the car on a slope (one side sits deeper that the other side) the door that stands lower hardly stays up, while the other and higher door goes up like a rocket in space! :hihi2:

It's just physics, I guess.... :clown:

[nkemp]

Tucked it away for a long winter nap :-( Forecasting 11"-19" of snow in the next day or so. The good news ... the snowblower is parked where the D was and is ready for action. Till next year...

[vwdmc16]

Finally got around to installing a new Otterstat, Found that the local wholesale parts supplier WorldPac, carries the right part that also fits '80s volvos. The otterstat has a much lower activation temp than before and was only $4!

No more worrying about overheating from fans not working!

[ALEXAKOS]

then I also became aware that if you park the car on a slope (one side sits deeper that the other side) the door that stands lower hardly stays up, while the other and higher door goes up like a rocket in space! :hihi2:

It's just physics, I guess.... :clown:
Gravity! ;) without it, torsion bars would have been eliminated :)

[vps3922]

Took it out for a trip to a board game day at a friends place. It was raining when I went there and the oil light started light up first dim and then stringer until full light and went back dark after a while. Checked oil and everything is fine. Light did not come up on the way back. It was dry on the way back. Maybe has something to do with the wet day. The warning light is a LED. I did never see an LED dim before. :umm:

Car ran fine. I enjoyed the ride.

[Jonathan]

Checked oil and everything is fine.

Some thoughts for you Volker:

The oil warning light is for oil pressure, thus not an easy thing to directly check for afterwards on the side of the road or at a gas station.

What did you check the oil for? Level? Colour? Smell? Overall appearance?

Those things are good to monitor, but may not always indicate a problem or lack of one if the oil pressure warning light comes on. You might have lots of good quality oil in the engine but something is affecting how well it is circulating or building up pressure.

Was it changed recently? The type of oil you use, viscosity and temperature outside the car is in all affect the pressure.

Perhaps most relevant, what was your analog gauge reading at this time when the warning light came on? Was it up to a normal/high mark on the gauge? Typically people think of the warning light sender being more accurate than the gauge, but it's worth noting if your gauge was low as well.

[Rich]

Took it out for a trip....It was raining when I went there and the oil light started light up first dim and then stringer until full light and went back dark after a while. Checked oil and everything is fine. Light did not come up on the way back. It was dry on the way back. Maybe has something to do with the wet day.

Known issue re moisture.
Same symptoms plus likely causes listed here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?799-Oil-Pressure-Warning-Light-comes-on-when-driving-through-rain (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?799-Oil-Pressure-Warning-Light-comes-on-when-driving-through-rain&highlight=pressure+light)

Presumably your oil press. gauge isn't showing a problem.

[vps3922]

What did you check the oil for? Level? Colour? Smell? Overall appearance?

I simply checked if I had enough. Oil level is ok. Oil got replaced in the beginning of the year (maybe 7 months ago when we restored the car).



Perhaps most relevant, what was your analog gauge reading at this time when the warning light came on? Was it up to a normal/high mark on the gauge? Typically people think of the warning light sender being more accurate than the gauge, but it's worth noting if your gauge was low as well.

Gauge reading was normal (fluctuating with RPM between standing at a light where it drops into the lower half and high up nearly at max when driving on the highway).

[vps3922]

Known issue re moisture.
Same symptoms plus likely causes listed here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?799-Oil-Pressure-Warning-Light-comes-on-when-driving-through-rain (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?799-Oil-Pressure-Warning-Light-comes-on-when-driving-through-rain&highlight=pressure+light)

Presumably your oil press. gauge isn't showing a problem.

Thank you for the link. This was exactly it. I need to investigate. Have a DMCH stage 1 and I am not sure if my catalytic converters may toast the connector. There is a bit of oil leaking from the sender and I will probably get this replaced and the wiring taken care of during one of my project days in the winter.

Thanks so much!

[krs09]

Just installed my new tachometer that I purchased off ebay. Got everything done turned the key and for the first time it dropped to 0. :o . Ive had the car a little more than 2yrs now and I have never known my idle speed or seen the revs when changing gears (learned to drive stick on my D and just listened). So it turns out Ive been changing gears at the 3k rev mark and after rebuilding the engine the idle sits a beautiful 750 on the money. Could not be happier! $12.95 for a new stock tachometer! Cant beat it. Thank you millie for listing these and not killing people with the price and a HUGE thank you to Mike A for letting me know when they went up for sale. :nana2:

[Rich_NYS]

-Driver's side axle boots.
-Went for [what appears to be] the last drive of the season.

[Mark D]

I finally got my car tucked away for the winter. I spent more time than I could have ever imagined fixing up my detached garage in my back yard to animal-proof it and repair rotted framing and siding. I'm hoping I won't find any surprises from critters come springtime. I also put down a race deck floor to help with moisture coming up from the concrete...Plus it looks badass. Finally a nice place to store the car for winter hibernation.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=31531&d=1415810491

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=31533&d=1415810598

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=31532&d=1415810491

[vps3922]

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=31531&d=1415810491

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=31533&d=1415810598

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=31532&d=1415810491

Very awesome floor!

[vps3922]

Took car for a trip to work again. Nice ride, although my final drive is still heavily dripping. I am waiting for the last speedi-sleeve to schedule the beginning of the winter projects, which includes the attempt to stuff all easy accessible leaking areas of the final drive. I will have to pull the engine if this does not fix it to reseal the split seal. I am crossing fingers that I do not have to do this.

[Domi]

Great job on your garage floor :wrenchin:

[Rich_NYS]

I finally got my car tucked away for the winter. I spent more time than I could have ever imagined fixing up my detached garage in my back yard to animal-proof it and repair rotted framing and siding. I'm hoping I won't find any surprises from critters come springtime. I also put down a race deck floor to help with moisture coming up from the concrete...Plus it looks badass. Finally a nice place to store the car for winter hibernation.


I like that floor....badass for sure! :rock_on:

[Mark D]

Thanks for the positive feedback on the floor, I'd been wanting a race deck floor like that for years and finally convinced myself to go for it.

The main bonus for me was being able to move it into my main garage in in the spring and enjoy it all summer, then move it back in the storage garage for the winter. I can partially disassemble and then reassemble in about a half hour.

[spedlot]

I have had the race deck flooring in my garage for 10 years now and it still looks great. The white tiles get dirty(obviously) but they clean up real nice.

[Mark D]

I was considering black and white instead of black and silver (alloy) but decided to go with the sliver since I figured it would be easier to keep clean. For the outer border I went with graphite. It's great stuff, glad to hear yours is holding up after 10 years.

[Domi]

I have almost the same floor in my garage :)
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10365-VIN-16951-from-France/page2

[acaciolo]

ditto. sorry the wrong car is in the front of the photo. great floor system.

31540

[DMCMW Dave]

Something I've wondered about with that floor system, and since the OP moves his floor this is a good time to ask.

Can you rinse it off with a hose/scrub brush? If you do, does water get under it and get moldy/stay wet? What happens if you spill, say, coolant or oil on it? Do you end up tearing it up to clean it out (old coolant gets smelly if left alone) or ignore it?

[acaciolo]

the tiles fit very tight, but water could probably get through. I haven't hosed it in the 10+ years I've had it down. i've mopped it a few times. I don't think mold would grow without a food source, so I doubt that would be an issue.

[spedlot]

I have mopped mine with a damp rag/mop but I have never gotten it wet with the hose. While the seams are pretty tight it will allow water to go underneath it

[Mark D]

Something I've wondered about with that floor system, and since the OP moves his floor this is a good time to ask.

Can you rinse it off with a hose/scrub brush? If you do, does water get under it and get moldy/stay wet? What happens if you spill, say, coolant or oil on it? Do you end up tearing it up to clean it out (old coolant gets smelly if left alone) or ignore it?

I had a lot of the same questions as you Dave...yes you can rinse it off with a hose and scrub brush. The tiles fit nice and tight together so for water to get below so you'd have to allow it to pool and sit for a period of time. Otherwise it water just beads off and you can squeegy it out the door. If you're spraying it down with a hose to get dirt and grime off you should be fine as long as you have somewhere for the water to go.

Also, the tiles are designed with channels and cutouts on the underside to allow water to drain out and air to get in and dry everything out. I found this article to be somewhat helpful...it compares RaceDeck to Swisstrax, a similar type of flooring and shows the channels & cutouts.
http://allgaragefloors.com/racedeck-vs-swisstrax/

For fluids that don't evaporate away like coolant and oil you'd just have to wipe the surface clean, but if you dump a quart of oil on the floor and it seeps through the cracks you may end up pulling up that section to get it clean underneath. Or you could just leave it, the floor itself will not be damaged by any typical automotive fluids.

Another alternative to consider would be the "Free Flow" style flooring from Race Deck. I went with the "Diamond" style floor which has a solid surface, The free flow floor looks like this:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=31541&d=1415890388


The open profile allows you to hose down the floor and get completely under the tiles to clean out dirt and any fluid spills. The best part is you can combine sections of free flow with the solid floor, so you you could do solid in some areas, and free flow in other areas. The radececk website has a floor designer feature so you can pick colors and floor type to figure out the exact number of tiles you'd need. It's fun to play around with and get an idea of what you'd want to do.

http://www.racedeck.com/designer.php

[Riley88]

Nothing crazy but put on the steel lettering on the rear fascia:)

[Patrick C]

Regrained my stainless steel skis and installed a ski rack onto my luggage rack. Definitely turning heads today!

[Domi]

Nice picture, Volant Machete skis?

[Patrick C]

Nice picture, Volant Machete skis?

Volants that I've had for years...not sure what the model is. They were one of the last models they made with printed graphics before they started stamping the logos into the stainless. So I removed all logos and have a perfectly smooth stainless top surface on the skis.

[Domi]

Awesome like this :thumbup2:
It's not the original ski rack right? Easy fit on the luggage rack?

[Patrick C]

Awesome like this :thumbup2:
It's not the original ski rack right? Easy fit on the luggage rack?

Its a generic aftermarket ski rack. Clamps nicely to the luggage rack.

[Domi]

All right, looks really nice and fits perfectly :)

[Bitsyncmaster]

Drove a 100 miles today with the D. No problems at all. Air temp was 30-40 degrees and the heater is way more than needed at that temp. Also my fuel gauge never jumped to straight up so maybe I did fix that problem.

[Farrar]

Tonight, I aimed #2613's headlights using the Hoppy aimers that I got from eBay a couple of weeks ago. Although I knew they were all too low from my last nighttime drive, I was surprised at how badly off they were horizontally as well. Fortunately, the adjusting hardware is usable in spite of the rust.

Thanks to the adjustment, one of the low-beam bulbs does not sit properly in its retaining bracket. I'm guessing that over the years the headlight buckets have deformed slightly due to rust. I should plan on replacing the buckets before long, but I'm afraid that it would involve removing the fascia, which is scary to me.

[Rich]

I'm guessing that over the years the headlight buckets have deformed slightly due to rust. I should plan on replacing the buckets before long, but I'm afraid that it would involve removing the fascia, which is scary to me.

No and no.

No, the buckets shouldn't deform due to rust. Unless they are truly down to tinfoil thickness in which case they need to come out because your headlights will be bouncing around in there.

No, the fascia needn't be removed to change the buckets. Fascia-on change-out is tedious but possible. Sort of like a 3-D puzzle. Mask it off all around so you don't nick the paint and then go in for those buckets. Be patient. Take photos as you go to aid reassembly. And don't drop any screws or springs in there.

[Farrar]

No, the fascia needn't be removed to change the buckets.

That's the best news I've read all day! Thanks, Rich! :)

[robvanderveer]

Kind of funny for a news reader

[Farrar]

Kind of funny for a news reader

On an ordinary work day, I host music three hours a day and only read news for two minutes.

Back to the subject though: seems Houston's run out of NOS RH headlight bucket/bracket assemblies. I might have to go parts diving or search for a cross-reference (ugh) if mine aren't salvageable.

I could bend mine back into shape, perhaps.

I have noticed that where other DeLoreans' headlights line up straight across, #2613's high beams sit higher than the low beams. It's been bothering me off and on for about seven years...

[Farrar]

... did this.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGRkAAz6bpo

[Rich_NYS]

Angle drive replacement......speedometer works now, but is off by 10-12 mph.

Now that the speedo works I was able to test the trip odometer. It goes to '11111' instead of '00000' so I must've messed up when I replaced the reset shaft.

[DMCMW Dave]

Angle drive replacement......speedometer works now, but is off by 10-12 mph.

Now that the speedo works I was able to test the trip odometer. It goes to '11111' instead of '00000' so I must've messed up when I replaced the reset shaft.

If it is consistently off by 10-12, you just got the needle on wrong. You can fix that when you take the trip digits out and fix that.

BTW - I've never seen a 5-digit trip odometer. :tongue_stick:

[DavidProehl]

Attempted fixing a rubbing sound coming from my driver's side front wheel well that went away when braking. Pulled my tire, inspected pads and rotor, both seemed fine (only about 3k miles on them since rotated and new pads). Removed caliper mounting bolts, moved it around, and put bolts back in. Did same with brake pad pins.

Went for a short test drive and didn't hear it, but it came and went before too so only time will tell if it is really fixed. Here is to hoping one mounting bolt was just tightened more on one side than the other, causing the caliper to sit a little crooked.

[sdg3205]

I had a squeak from the drivers door that was driving me crazy. It was loud and persistent enough at speed that it would hurt my ears. I knew it was the latches and striker pins because when i pushed on the door with my knee I could get it to stop.

I used clear, thick suspension grease (from Toby's bushing upgrade) and slathered the pins and latches and gave the weather stripping a dose of silicone while I was on a grease trip. The drivers door on 4916 is now the quietest, smoothest door I've ever operated.

[Rich_NYS]

If it is consistently off by 10-12, you just got the needle on wrong. You can fix that when you take the trip digits out and fix that.

BTW - I've never seen a 5-digit trip odometer. :tongue_stick:

Haha, fair enough, I have 111.1 instead of 000.0....lol!

Before I removed the needle, I marked the position and I'm pretty sure I put the needle in the same spot. I'll try taking it off and re-positioning it....I'm guessing I'll have to do some trial & error before I get it just right. I don't know much about how a speedometer works, I'm reading a few mentions of something magnetic and some type of calibration...wouldn't be any of that, right?

[Farrar]

Had a go at starting the engine:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TeWXYFX6IjE

Even with the booster battery, voltage was not enough. Could be the result of the fact that I had only a trickle charger on overnight and most of the day after last night's reading of 11.1 volts ... or maybe it's time for a new battery.

It also could be the timing is so badly off (despite my best efforts to line everything up, including removing the muffler and turning the engine by hand with my thumb in the #1 spark plug well...) that it won't start no matter how much juice I give it, and the popping sound at the end was a small backfire.

Time will tell...

[DavidProehl]

Even with the booster battery, voltage was not enough.

Sorry to hear this still isn't starting for you. I know you've verified you have fuel and spark, not sure what else to look at. Have other owners been able to take a look at it yet with you? I know how frustrating longstanding issues can be. Eventually you get to the point where you don't even want to look at the car anymore, I just hope you aren't there yet.

[Farrar]

I know how frustrating longstanding issues can be. Eventually you get to the point where you don't even want to look at the car anymore, I just hope you aren't there yet.

Thanks! I got there months ago, and decided to cover the car and not think about it while I took care of other real-life stuff. Now that I am not pressed for time, it's not frustrating me, fortunately.

I'll get there, bit by bit. It's just a matter of going slowly and taking one thing at a time.

[leroylem]

Farrar---
You might remember I went thru a no start problem also a few months back---still was K-Jet---finally came down to weak spark---just not enough spark to run---finally removed K-Jet, and replaced rotor, cap, wires, and plugs. While that far down, built an intake, bought & rebuilt a carb, fabbed linkage brackets, and the engine started actually first crank. Have not gone back to K-Jet, car runs so good now, but I am sure all my problems were "weak spark""---have you changed rotor, cap, wires, plugs---got to have a hot spark.
Leroy

[Citizen]

Had a go at starting the engine...[snip]

IMHO, even though you cleaned the carb and verified fuel in the carb, it still sounds like no fuel in the cylinders to me (kind of a dry cranking sound). If you had fuel in the cylinders, even with the timing just a little off, slow cranking should have at least tried to fire.

Have you ever considered putting a shot of starter fluid directly into a few cylinders and then try to start it? Even a slow crank should fire a few cylinders. Then you'd know if it was truly a fuel problem or not. If not, must be timing, cause you verified spark.

Thomas

...

[leroylem]

My problem ---just like yours--no start----spark was there---just weak at the plugs---very hot spark from the coil----sprayed starter fluid in intake---still would not fire----even had a 50amp boost charger---not enough fire----changed cap, rotor, wires, plugs---ran first crank.. I still bet its weak spark problem.. Good luck